A/C upgrade - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 06-13-2002, 09:54 AM

What should I expect to pay for having the A/C upgraded from freon to 134 in an 85TD, assuming no leaks and working compressor?

leathermang · #2 06-13-2002, 10:10 AM

It will not be an upgrade to change to 134... I am sure what you were thinking was " Update "....R12 is still king... and your whole system was designed for it.. if your system is in good shape , with the price of r12 having dropped from its high... you might consider just staying with the r12....
I have been really studying this for a while, and with TCane's help I believe this is what I am going to do. When r12 was going off the charts for cost it made sense to convert... but you might could hold off for another 5 years and have much colder ac during that time.. by then improvements may have been introduced which you would want for long range use... Greg

#3 06-13-2002, 10:20 AM

This forum has got to be the greatest thing since cheese grits. I stand corrected on the "upgrade" issue. Thanx.

Jim Anderson · #4 06-13-2002, 11:01 AM

Its like software. You may have to "update" your software but it may not be an "upgrade"

#5 06-13-2002, 11:29 AM

lrg,
I don't know that S.F. actually does have a summer.

#6 06-13-2002, 11:29 AM

Cheese Grits!?!? Yuk ! ! I love grits and hate cheese.

If there is no problem with the system, why are you asking this question? If it is low on refrigerant and needs charging, that means that there is a leak to be found. Since you are in New Jersey and not Texas, if you must change to 134 I think you can stand the 15% loss in efficiency. My daughters 300D is doing reasonably well with 134 and we ARE in Texas.

If there is no leak, then I agree that you would probably be best served staying with R12. What stays in my mind is that you are asking, so there must be a problem of some sort.

Good luck,

leathermang · #7 06-13-2002, 11:50 AM

If all your parts are good, and you still want to convert then the price differences will mostly be due to how hard it is to get to your exp valve ... some of these are hidden up under very unfriendly dash panels... some are easy to get to...same with the rec/dryer... so ball park estimates will vary even with assuming an honest ac shop.

lrg · #8 06-13-2002, 12:33 PM

If you do choose to "update" your A/C system, I paid about $150 at a good, local auto specialty A/C shop. To do it right they need to flush the system and replace the oil. My '85 TD didn't need any new parts, at least they didn't charge me for any. I've not noticed a difference in cooling capacity but then we don't have the kind of summers some others do. Having lived in New York a number of years, I'd guess you'll probably be fine if you convert to 134A.

lrg · #9 06-13-2002, 05:49 PM

Mccan,
We do actually have summer here, it's just about 10 miles east, out of the fog belt. I have yet to be in ANY house in S.F. proper that has A/C. Go ten mile east and they all do.

billrok · #10 06-13-2002, 06:18 PM

The cost to convert a non-leaking or barely leaking old MB or any other car that started out life as an R12 system is about $29.95 when you buy the kit on sale at Wal Mart. My buddy is an ASME certified Master and has done over 75 cars so far. All with the same kit from Wal Mart. None have come back because the owners said it wasn't cooling enough. Properly charged, the 134A conversions are excellent.My 300SD cools off instantly and keeps the car nice and chilly. If I had lots of money and lived in the Bayou's of Louisiana I would not have converted to 134A. But that is not the case. Yet.

leathermang · #11 06-13-2002, 07:32 PM

Bill, didn't you forget some things ? It will need the 134a expansion valve, a new reciever dryer ,134a compatible seals and needs to be flushed... that needs to be added to that conversion kit price.....

#12 06-13-2002, 08:27 PM

Compressor does not turn on. Isn't that either:
1.) a bad compressor, or
2.) a compressor low enough on refrigerant/oil to not turn on?

Mechanic says the compressor needs to be replaced. I don't think he has tested it.

leathermang · #13 06-13-2002, 10:53 PM

3. low pressure switch faulty
4. high pressure switch faulty
5. compressor clutch faulty
6. electrical supply problem

billrok · #14 06-14-2002, 11:00 PM

Greg, all things being equal, you are absolutely right. I did change out the receiver/dryer when I did my conversion to 134A but I did not flush out anything nor did I replace my expansion valve. I also did replace a couple of O rings but thats because I had the whole thing apart when I replaced the sway bar. The absolutely correct way to do it is to do as you say. I can only tell you that my car functions and cools perfectly with the original expansion valve and I did not even flust out the condenser. My E150 Ford conversion van has also been converted and not a single component was changed. It also cools great!! 134A is only $6 or $7 bucks a can at most stores. You don't need a special license to buy it. If my old lines leak out a little over the winter, I'll just put in a tad more in the spring.

leathermang · #15 06-14-2002, 11:30 PM

Bill, It must be nice to live far enough north that one does not have to try every trick available on a system in order to expect to stay cool... We do not have that luxury here in Texas......

Greg