You may recall from a prior thread that my 1987 w124 300TD wagon radiator fan taps my radiator during braking. This first became a problem after I bottomed out the car hard on a massive dip and destroyed my prior radiator with a fan/radiator impact. The prior owner also replaced the radiator just prior to my ownership, so I wonder if he had the same issues as well.

Anyway, the clearance at 3 o'clock is small enough that when braking, the fan taps the edge of the radiator. I checked the engine mounts and they both look fine according to the clearance test in the FSM. I have not figured out a way to check the transmission mount.

Basically, I took some photos which I think confirms the problem is that the bottom of the radiator is being forced back towards the engine, but your help is appreciated. It looks to me that the radiator mounts themselves are bent a little at their anchor points (this is hard to see in the pic). But the most obvious problem is that thick cross member (or radiator protector bar or rusty pipe thing in the photos) which appears to have been pushed into the lower radiator supports. Can anyone confirm this is NOT where that cross member is supposed to be? I see gaps in some of the plastic near the cross member which I suspect is where that is supposed to be, but it is several inches behind those gaps.

So my main questions are:
1) is that thick metal cross member below the radiator in the totally wrong place?
and
2) if so, how would you suggest I bend it back. It appears to have gouged into the lower radiator supports.

Thanks in advance.

Attached Thumbnails

         

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

Get a trailer tie down strap or similar ( these are about 20" long , 2" wide nylon straps with rings on each end . ) and wrap it around the tube with the rings facing down. A 1 " ratchet strap might not be enough. Old seat belt material would work also.

Take a ~ 1 1/2 " diameter pipe and slide it through the rings. If it won't fit, use a short chain between the two rings

Slide the pipe rearward until it is under the engine cross member, use wood between the cross member and pipe to adjust the angle. Press pipe downward until the rad pipe is straight.

You might need to elevate the car for clearance and / or block the body to the ground so the springs don't compress.

As for the rad mounts, you might need to lift the rad to gain space for a strap and / or pull one mount down at a time.

Something is bent or the radiator isn't seated in the proper location. If it isn't obvious after crawling under, you will be pulling the radiator to find the problem. This type of issue isn't common and it's unlikely that someone will divine the answer online.

You can redneck it by using a tree and come along or whatever else you can rig or take it to a frame machine after you figure out the problem. There are generally frame measurement specs in the FSM. Someone can post a link to the 124 FSM or you can probably buy a bootleg copy on ebay.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

97 SL320 and Junkman-
Thanks for your help. I was able to use your advice to get enough clearance to not have the fan hit the radiator. It is probably still not quite in the correct location, but for the first time in nearly a year, I have been able to brake hard and not hear a tap-tap-tap sound. This was causing me lots of stress because I simply couldn't figure out how to fix it and driving was no longer fun. Thank you so much.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

It sounds like the bottom mount has been pushed back.

I've owned a W124 that had been "curbed", and the solution was to persuade the mount back to it's original location as 97SL320 outlines, I don't recall being impressed with the mounts robustness.

As an aside, we had an 87 300TD, and when the motor mounts failed, it was enough of a drop that the fan was touching the bottom of the shroud. Fortunately, MB allows you to adjust the vertical location of the shroud......

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

All the 190/124 chassis have this issue, the chin up front is very weak, and the car is low.
Parking lot stops, curbs, etc will hit, and they get mushed.

I went through 3 stinking radiators when my wife was driving one of the TD's... I took the car away from her after that and made her drive a vw...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!