I don't remember if this is front or rear.

Using a 126 window regulator on a 123.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1598364-w126-window-regulator-into-w123.html#post4812820


Apparently some sites still have some left and they are in the $420-$450 range for a new one.

Pelican has no longer available.-Mercedes rear window regulator 1167302146

I've broken down our window switches to rebuild them and from what I saw there wasn't really anything fancy inside of them other than two ball bearings, springs, and a long metal tab that bridged the contacts.

I assumed the german engineers just over built the arm mechanism for dip****s who pressed down for too long to stop it. Those stopping arm mechanism are pretty damn beefy.

Took out regulator. It was bent with some stripped teeth on the up end.

Unbent it as best I can with a rubber mallet and a couple of foot long 2 x 4's. It does not ratchet anymore but if I hold the button too long as it tops out, it ends up in a dead spot and won't go down unless I help it get started by pushing the glass down with my palm. One of the tooth is half worn away flat. I imagine that's the trouble spot. I am pretty sure I pulled all the regulators from my 83 240D but the only one I was able to dig up is the wrong one!

If someone was extremely competent with a low powered flux core welder they could built up the teeth. After which the teeth can be filed.

I am not extremely competent with the flux core welder I have but I read you can use a Copper Bar back up to help prevent burn through. I bought a bar of Copper and that helps about 90 percent concerning burn through of thin material if you can position it.

Looks pretty good to me .

I'd ask for someone in California to get you a good used one .

For now, roll the window up and disconnect the motor else it will fail again soon .

I can't imagine leaving any window open in NYC .

It seems the window motors are too powerful to the point it will bend regulators. To protect the regulators, how about lowering the electrical input power to the motors with a power resistor or power diodes?

Silicon diodes have a voltage drop of 0.7 volts. Four in series is 2.8 V drop which will give you around 11 V at the motors. Depending on how the windows are wired (I believe polarity is reversed to make the windows roll the other way) so it may only work in one direction and may not work at all in the other direction.

Any electrical types here want to take a look at the wiring diagram and see if this is feasible? I'd take a look when I have time which may not be till a few days from now.

Good idea! I will unplug the window switch for that door.

I was considering cutting a section with good teeth on the gear from the regulator I dug up and weld it onto the bent one. Your idea of building up the badly worn tooth with a welder (followed with a Dremel / cutoff wheel and a file) is a lot less work .

Have you seen this? Looks like you could use a W116 lifter if you can't find one out of a W123.

BAD IDEA
 

Running electric motors at less than specified voltage makes them labor, run hot and draw more current ~ all add up to fried motor sooner than you think .

Would you mind explaining how the blower motor works then? Amperage is a function of voltage into a given impedance. Less voltage into a DC motor = less amperage and less power. I'm not promoting this as an idea for the regulator bending (it's just a weak design that a weaker motor won't fix), it's just dispelling the old myth that lower voltage will burn up a motor (it doesn't).

Due someone hitting and running I had to replace the left rear Door. The regulator on the replacement door works fine. Don't know if it has any bending or not.

The window on the dented door; the one I replaced with a new regulator also works. I re-enforced the new one before I installed it. Of course I am going to keep both regulators.