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  #16  
Old 12-31-2019, 02:26 PM
E300d 1995
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Near Lake Texoma
Posts: 480
I've had my tensioner mounting bolt out once. Can't recall if it was reverse thread. My guess it is tight due to the thread locker compound used on the threads. But best to verify direction before breaking the cover or the bolt. Seems like I read a few years ago where one person had damaged his cover during bolt removal.

There are several posts that mention installing a one way pulley will reduce belt flutter and extend the life of the tensioner shock, spring, and arm assembly.

In my case I drilled, tapped, and installed a small grease zerk then made my on anti-galling grease by mixing two good anti galling lubricants.

About 20,000 miles later my belt is still running without any detectable flutter.

95 E300D my new tensioner modification

http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/605_606/13-3200HA.pdf this is from a really helpful site and this link gives replacement instructions

partsouq.com is a foreign site and shows part numbers based on vin #. Has been pretty much 100 percent reliable, for me, for serveral years now, hopefully that will continue.

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  #17  
Old 12-31-2019, 03:08 PM
E300d 1995
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Near Lake Texoma
Posts: 480
This site has an image of the bolt that you can magnify by moving your mouse pointer.

https://www.ws-autoteile.com/en/belt-drive/tension-roller-lever/Lagerzapfen-Spannrollenhebel-Mercedes-W202-W124-W210-W461-W463-W140-Sprinter_A12013W503

Looks standard thread to me.

As I recall the person that damaged his cover used too much torque while tightening the bolt, not loosening it.
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  #18  
Old 01-02-2020, 11:35 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 3,978
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhehmann View Post
Thanks Zulfiqar.

Regarding the tensioner arm pin, is the thread standard, ie: counter-clockwise to loosen? It's too tight to break loose with the standard length ratchet.
Its sealed with thread sealant from the factory, you can use regular blue threadlock on the new one, Its going to take a long ratchet to break loose, dont overtorque when installing it - thats how you break the timing cover.

tip - use the old pin to make a threadchaser to clean the threads in the cover.
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1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #19  
Old 01-03-2020, 06:07 PM
bhehmann's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Keller, TX
Posts: 130
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
The belt half way off that pulley means tensioner arm and pin aredamaged and need to be replaced

It will cause belt squeal too.

The tensioner is multipart,

The arm, the pin on which it rides on, the spring and the damper.

Buy the arm and pin along with its O ring, its about 250 in parts for genuine items, O ring is very important.

Remove the alternator and get an overruning pulley installed on it, it will prevent the early demise of the tensioner arm
Zulfiqar,
I removed the entire tensioner but didn't see an O-ring. The repair manual doesn't indicate on either (see attached)
Attached Thumbnails
1995 E300D: Need advise replacing the water pump-poly-v-belt-tensioner.jpg  
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Bjoern

_________________________________
'08 E320 Bluetec - 101k
'95 E300 Diesel - 241k
'92 300D 2.5 Turbo 321k (Rear-ended by negligent driver and totalled)
'06 Jetta TDI (Sold in 2010)
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  #20  
Old 01-19-2020, 07:00 PM
bhehmann's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Keller, TX
Posts: 130
I replaced all the tensioner and all associated parts as recommended by Zulfiqar, the squeal is gone and it idles nicely now.

Thank you Zulfiqar and for all other replies, much appreciated!
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Regards,
Bjoern

_________________________________
'08 E320 Bluetec - 101k
'95 E300 Diesel - 241k
'92 300D 2.5 Turbo 321k (Rear-ended by negligent driver and totalled)
'06 Jetta TDI (Sold in 2010)
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  #21  
Old 01-21-2020, 12:35 PM
Diesel Preferred
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,788
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhehmann View Post
Is it possible to install a new belt incorrectly?

For future readers: Yes, it is possible to get the belt routed incorrectly, and then it will be too loose and squeak and slip. BTDT.
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/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #22  
Old 11-13-2021, 04:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: CT
Posts: 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by my83300cd View Post
Thanks for posting all the info.

The 95 e300d that my son dragged home cheap as the PO didn't have time to deal with a "running warm" issue is now to the point we can dive into that....
The injectors are rebuilt, the return lines are finally not leaking, the serpentine belt that shredded has been replaced, and the fuel system no longer looses prime when parked facing up hill. The broken heater hose that cracked at the fitting has been replaced with a new one (the used one I got from a member here lasted about 2 hrs of running time before the plastic fitting cracked)
We have a spanking new water pump, gasket, thermostat, gasket....and I just need to knuckle down.
All I want is a reliable station car, and compared to the 77 300d this thing is a rocket ship!
How time flys... life got in the way and now that the replacement belt has shredded and the tensioner pulley takes real effort to turn, its time to replace that and the water pump together.

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95 E300D working out the kinks
77 300D, 227k, station car
83 300CD 370k, gone away
89 190E 2.6- 335k, no more
79 VW FI Bus- 145k miles, summer driver
59 VW Beetle ragtop- 175k miles
12 VW Jetta- 160k miles
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