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  #16  
Old 12-19-2019, 01:23 PM
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Here's the jewel Diseasel300 is referring to. Located behind the glove box.


Blower motor slow starting/not starting-tempreg.jpg

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  #17  
Old 12-19-2019, 01:28 PM
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That's the one. It's the unit that issues commands to the compressor clutch, the black relay box to control the fan speed, and monovalve/aux pump. It's basically the "brain" of the system, so when it gets issues the HVAC system gets a mind of its own.
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  #18  
Old 12-19-2019, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by URO Parts Support View Post
Coincidentally URO just released Blower Motor Assembly 126 820 0542 for these cars, which retails for about a third of the OEM unit.
Pelican now has this blower available: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1268200542M253.htm?pn=126-820-05-42-M253&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=0814
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  #19  
Old 12-19-2019, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Yes, the other vacuum functions would still work as they are supplied before the climate control. They would be a bit slower but since they are supplemented by the vacuum reservoir you probably wouldn't notice the delay.

The fact the fan doesn't engage using the defrost function casts doubt on the pods being the problem. Might be worth checking them out while you are in the process.

You say you removed and checked the CCU. Are you referring to the push button unit mounted in the console?

The actual control/amplifier is located in the right hand side of the dash behind the glove box. Is that the part you checked? There is a relay located on the cabin side of the firewall also located behind the glove box. That might be what you are hearing "click".

To eliminate the pods causing the trouble the easiest way is to remove the glove box and physically observe the movement of the diaphragms. Obviously the vehicle need to be running. The micro-switch is located on the ducting to the right of the main duct work where it joins the center air box.
I removed the push-button unit from the dash. I will pull the glove box out and take a look at the vacuum component and amplifier. Can the amp be opened and tested as well?

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Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
The defrost button should override any other function of the climate control system and force the fan on high regardless of any setting or sensor input. Failure of the fan to come on in Defrost is likely due to a failed temperature regulator box. There are a handful of capacitors in there that leak and literally eat away the copper traces on the PCB. Once that happens, the HVAC gets a mind of its own. The fan control is one of the first things to go. Since you know the blower is good, having the silver "Tempregler" box rebuilt and/or repaired is the next step. Don't get a 2nd hand one (they'll be dead too) and do not waste your time or money with Programma "rebuilds", I'm convinced that their "rebuild" process involves physically attaching a "rebuilt by Programma" sticker to the case.
This kind of answered the question above. I'll try to open it up and take a look. Is it just a matter of reflowing broken solder joints?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Here's the jewel Diseasel300 is referring to. Located behind the glove box.


Attachment 155252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
That's the one. It's the unit that issues commands to the compressor clutch, the black relay box to control the fan speed, and monovalve/aux pump. It's basically the "brain" of the system, so when it gets issues the HVAC system gets a mind of its own.

Thanks gents! I'll get into this part tomorrow!

Edit: went to pull the glove box and have a look at the temp control unit. It's hard to tell how it's held in there. What's the process of removing it? Do I need to pull that whole panel with the other black module next to it?

Last edited by MongooseGA; 12-19-2019 at 10:51 PM.
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  #20  
Old 12-19-2019, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MongooseGA View Post
I'll try to open it up and take a look. Is it just a matter of reflowing broken solder joints?
No. All of the capacitors need replaced, and if the foil is eaten off the PCB, you'll have to do some reworking. If you take the cover off and see yellow capacitors with red/orange lettering, you know you have work to do. They seem to be the worst leakers for some reason.
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1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

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1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

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1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)
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  #21  
Old 12-19-2019, 11:29 PM
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Got it. Prior to opening it up, am I able to test for power at the plug?

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