If you are going to consider changing out the filter assembly for another type, make sure the filter can handle an air flow that is at or above the stock 450 cfm rating. Other item to consider important is how well the oil separator is working. Some just just doesn't separate the oil well enough, basically it something you'll need to test.

Here is my setup with a w126 603 air box (630 cfm), coolant tank and a Kawasaki Jet Ski oil separator . Not exactly a bolt on affair. I had to create few of custom brackets, move the air conditioning low pressure line and piece together the tubing with a '85 Cali air intake rubber hose.










.

Attached Thumbnails

   

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

If you have the filter contained in a metal housing and run a tube from it up to the front of the car, as in the first picture I shared, it should work like the factory cold air intake. Actually, if the air filter is in front of the turbo and far enough from the engine, the air shouldn't be all that much warmer, especially if the car is moving and outside air is flowing into the engine compartment.

But, I'd be careful about a setup which places the air filter over the turbo or exhaust, though that's how the factory setup was, other than it having a tube which draws in cold air from the front of the car.

The W116 is difficult when it comes to fabricating a custom air intake, as the battery is located at the front of the engine compartment, and the cold air intake is located behind the headlight--and if you convert to Euro headlights, it seals off the air intake, choking the engine of air unless you disconnect the plastic tube and let it float over it so it sucks in air from under the hood.

__________________
Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/

DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles

You ever consider relocating your battery to the trunk to gain more room? I don't think it would be that hard with your abilities and plus that trunk has room. You can harvest a positive cable from the many BMW's that are out in the wrecking yards now or make a custom cable.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Or go the Mercedes route. I'm not sure when bat in the trunk started but the 90 - 01 R129 SL + similar year S class and 95 - 00 W202 C class had it. I'd expect the W140 to be trunk mount as well. The 96 - ? W210 E class had battery under rear seat.

The cable is run through the passenger compartment and there is a bulkhead connection at the drivers floor foot area.

It is OK to ground the trunk battery to the body as the above cars are however be sure to ground the engine to the body.

Yes, the metal covers are intact and in place......always have been. I'm just tired of the damn rubber mounts lasting about 3 months or so. And yes, the engine gets a valve adjustment every 15,000 miles and idles very smoothly.

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

I'm not really a big fan of batteries in the trunk, but I considered it. I'll probably try to make one of those aluminum Spectre air boxes work--when I have the money.

__________________
Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/

DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles

Ok, I guess if I use a cone filter I can mount it to the turbo with a rubber coupler tube. I can find the outside diameter of the cone filter flange easily enough, but off-hand, does anyone know the outside diameter of the turbocharger flange?

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

It's roughly 2.5", but hopefully someone will come in with a more accurate measurement. I'd prefer to use a paper filter inside a housing or shield if possible.

__________________
Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/

DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles

Turbo inlet outer diameter is 59 mm or about 2 5/16 inches

Many thanks for the info. Gonna proceed with this at the next oil change in about 500 miles or so.

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

I noticed in all the pictures of people using cone filter set ups, they have the rubber tube from the valve cover going into an oil separator. I would prefer to just route it into the stock metal tube that comes from the oil pan and goes to the bottom of the stock air cleaner assembly.

Anyone see a problem with this?

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

Yes, a very obvious one

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

Please educate and enlighten me......is there an obvious problem (that I am oblivious to) with routing the PCV hose from the valve cover into the metal drain tube that usually attaches to the air cleaner. IF the air cleaner is removed, nothing will be attached to the drain tube so I would think it would be an ideal place to route the PCV tube.

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

If you are going to to put a direct line from the valve cover to the metal tube that leads to the oil pan, all it's going to do recirculate the crankcase gas and create a higher pressure within the crankcase that could blow out seals or make the engine run very poorly or keep from running or all of the above.

The reason for the oil separator is to separate the oil from the crankcase gases which drains oil back to the oil pan. The separated gas could be reburned or vented into the atmosphere. I have mine routed to the intake turbo hose to be reburned.

If you didn't have an oil separator and vented directly to the atmosphere, you'll have oil just spraying out.

.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Ok, makes sense

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)