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  #1  
Old 09-13-2019, 04:43 PM
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Cool Diesel purge - Liqui Moly

Used this a while back which as expected didn't change much at all.

Posting this thread due to the recurring theme on YouTube (Mr Kent) of how it works so well, you can tell by the opaque bottle with return fuel turing dark brown/black.

You will notice how proponents suggest changing to a new filter after and not before, could this be the old filter is in fact a primary source (it's a filter after all) of brown/black sediment flowing into bottle?

..forum members, start your keyboards now...

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  #2  
Old 09-13-2019, 04:50 PM
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No, all of the gunk is coming from the IP, I did a diesel purge on my E300 and it was clear as day, didn't even change shades.

On the the SDL it was BLACK.
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  #3  
Old 09-13-2019, 04:52 PM
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Can't speak from experience, but I was also going to perform this "service" at some point.
Pretty sure you want to change the FILTERS (there are 2 that need to be replaced) AFTER the purge so as not to suck/push all that crap through the new ones. Also keep in mind, if you think you're having "fuel delivery" problems, don't forget about the screen/strainer in the base of the fuel tank.
I'd also think one also has to keep in mind, this is NOT a miracle cure. If your valves are "out of adjustment" or the injectors are in need of a rebuild or any one of a multitude of "other" issues (injection pump, timing chain, etc) some "magical mystery in a bottle" is not gonna perform a complete engine overhaul for you.
It'll be interesting to hear how members who have used this product will weigh in.

Last edited by 123boy; 09-13-2019 at 05:20 PM.
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  #4  
Old 09-13-2019, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Father Of Giants View Post
No, all of the gunk is coming from the IP, I did a diesel purge on my E300 and it was clear as day, didn't even change shades.

On the the SDL it was BLACK.
But couldn't the black residue come from an old filter, adding a solvent to the fuel loop is bound to dissolve and release absorbed particulate?
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  #5  
Old 09-13-2019, 05:42 PM
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Possibly secret of what it is composed of. Obviously the engine has to function on it as well. So could be fuel oil and a solvent.

Personally to get the best results I think turning the engine off to give whatever solvent is in there a longer chance to work on any deposits. It is capable of dissolving. There is nothing to be hurt by even doing this a few times with hours of soaking between. One thing to remember though is chemical activity declines with temperature.

You never want to run this through a system at under 70 degrees. Chemical activity starts to fall of a cliff below that. Warmer is better still.

I think the poster is also right in that some components present in an old fuel filter logically will be dissolved as well. So color change probably cannot be attributed to the injection pump deposits alone. Actually all color change could be from the filter in some cases.

I also suspect the inside of the injection pump and delivery valve seats will in general stay a lot cleaner naturally with reasonable fuel filter changes. Perhaps once a year or every two.

Stay away from small volume diesel fuel outlets. As the filter gets saturated with rust particles and other things from their tanks. Then the pressure differential increases across the filter.. Forcing things through it that would otherwise stay out of the injection pump.

Where you get very clean fuel from high volume places like heavy truck stops. They cover it all to make sure that is what they are selling.

We had a member that was currently on the verge of puling his engine head. Until he noticed the contents of his primary filter where as dirty as engine oil. Hard to say what was pumped into his fuel tank at a small volume sales outlet. These bulk tank carriers that service the small volume places are usually not dedicated load carriers. Many times they do not clean out the left overs of their last product load before loading another product. The high volume places do not accept loads from other than the dedicated carriers. Also the carriers that do service them never want to lose their business.

Last edited by barry12345; 09-13-2019 at 05:58 PM.
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  #6  
Old 09-13-2019, 05:52 PM
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Each time I have ran a purge the engine is always quieter afterwards. The gunk coming out is black. The last time I did it I forget i had the car idling and came back 25minuets later to a nearly empty can and a soot stain on the drive way. Must have worked well and the engine was of course quieter.
I do like the idea of letting it soak, I figured idle would have a similar effect.
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  #7  
Old 09-13-2019, 06:52 PM
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I used Seafoam on the first start of my rebuilt OM617. The IP was completely gelled up with veggie oil and I had no fuel at 3 cylinders. I pulled all the delivery valves and cleaned them with brake cleaner, then plumbed the fuel lines into the can of Seafoam.

I made sure I had some circulating through the IP, then let it sit and work for an hour or so. After that the car did start, and the IP has been getting steadily better. Still idles like crap, the IP needs a rebuild - but the Seafoam did work.

I didn't go into MSDS, but both Seafoam and diesel purge are supposed to do the same thing. I had a little dirt in the return bottle from the IP, but it did start coming out clean shortly thereafter. Did not have a noticeable difference in idle on Seafoam vs normal diesel.
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  #8  
Old 09-14-2019, 07:53 AM
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84 300D - 135K miles. Black color return purge. Substantial difference felt after the purge.

76 240D - 79K miles. Clear color return purge. Mild difference felt after the purge.

All comes down to how dirty your fuel system is. If you don’t know this, you should do a 2 can diesel purge to be sure. Costs nothing. After the purge, use Techron diesel additive to keep it clean.
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  #9  
Old 09-14-2019, 08:29 AM
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Sea foam has been getting a reasonable reputation for quite some time. Decent level of solvents I suppose. Not certain if it is good to run a diesel engine on. Where the contents of liquid moly purge create no issue.

The use of a tank of premium diesel once in awhile that does have cleaners might be a good ideal too. Turned out to be under a dime a gallon more locally.
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  #10  
Old 09-14-2019, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Screwdriva View Post
...you should do a 2 can diesel purge to be sure. Costs nothing.
I must be missing something. I had to pay for my Diesel Purge. Please let us know how to get it at no cost.
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Old 09-14-2019, 11:11 AM
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What the heck is "premium diesel"? Who carries it and how do you know you're getting premium? I've never seen or heard of it. I've only ever seen simply "diesel" for sale, one pump (unless a truck stop) and no pump markings of "regular" or "premium". Or, is it something you buy in separate containers and add to your regular fuel?
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Old 09-14-2019, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 123boy View Post
What the heck is "premium diesel"?
Must be a Canadian thing.
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2019, 02:51 PM
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Not really calling into question whether these products work or not, more the claims that it is working based on the return container colour.

Poster above mentioned he left the engine running emptying the bottle, the tail pipe also left a sooty mark - could this not be due to feeding the engine some of the dislodged gloop held inside the filter?

Over the years messing around with diesels pulling lots of components apart and have yet to see anything black, sometimes a yellow/brown stain but very minimal and unlikely to discolour a whole bottle.

If the filter is in good shape it should remove any build up, the fact it doesn't suggests the filter may not be working correctly or perhaps bypassed in extreme cases.
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Last edited by spock505; 09-15-2019 at 08:15 AM.
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  #14  
Old 09-14-2019, 09:03 PM
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I think running a good percentage of certified biodiesel will clean the fuel system very well.

After running that stuff off and on over a few years I finally tried the famous Diesel Purge. Ran it direct in and out of the pump with a 30micron prefilter using a bottle.
No dark color came out. Engine ran just as good as before.

Seems I wasted my time and some money, but interesting nevertheless.


B100 is sold close to where I live so I'm lucky there, but I never ran it straight.
50% or less mix.

I keep B100 in 5 gal jugs and run it through a 100 micron funnel if it's old.
If I put bio in the tank I make sure to burn it. That stuff can get weird if it gets old. Algae or something idk. Wouldn't want it in a fuel system for long storage.
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  #15  
Old 09-14-2019, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry12345 View Post
Sea foam has been getting a reasonable reputation for quite some time. Decent level of solvents I suppose. Not certain if it is good to run a diesel engine on. Where the contents of liquid moly purge create no issue.

The use of a tank of premium diesel once in awhile that does have cleaners might be a good ideal too. Turned out to be under a dime a gallon more locally.
I only used Seafoam because I found their a recommendation online to use it as a form of diesel purge. The can also has instruction to run full strength Seafoam in a diesel.

Like I said, it did free up a stuck IP, so it definitely has some merit IMO.

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