84 300d sold for $20,000 - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #16 09-22-2019, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wallbenz

another question-- 85 300sd

How many hours - will a good suspension shop bill me to-- do a Rubber/bushing/mount /ball joint restore- on front suspension and motor mounts for this 85 300sd

also- mechanic mentioned issues with 85 300sd ABS braking- what issues should I look for there?

A "GOOD" shop (dealer quality=high price) will probably charge more for the job than the car is worth. It is best to find a shop (or friend/mechanic) that will work with you (using your supplied parts) on the suspension rebuild if you CAN'T do it yourself. These are very DIY friendly cars, and there are many suspension rebuild threads on this forum. The only real way to get good value from these cars is to work on them yourself, or find a competent mechanic (Mercedes-Benz enthusiast) to do the work at a fraction of dealer/Euro auto shop cost.

sloride · #17 09-22-2019, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

My insurance company says my '82 300D with 190k miles is worth $17,150.

Until someone without insurance rear ends you.

tangofox007 · #18 09-22-2019, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sloride

Until someone without insurance rear ends you.

It's always great to hear from an expert. Tell me, does my insurance company have a record of not honoring its obligations?

sloride · #19 09-22-2019, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

It's always great to hear from an expert. Tell me, does my insurance company have a record of not honoring its obligations?

No I don't, but they are great at attempting to sell more insurance than you need or will ever benefit from. Feel free to search here on how many threads give praise to insurance companies that pay a fair price on a thirty plus year old vehicle after a wreck, or anywhere near 17K.

wallbenz · #20 09-22-2019, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

A "GOOD" shop (dealer quality=high price) will probably charge more for the job than the car is worth. It is best to find a shop (or friend/mechanic) that will work with you (using your supplied parts) on the suspension rebuild if you CAN'T do it yourself. These are very DIY friendly cars, and there are many suspension rebuild threads on this forum. The only real way to get good value from these cars is to work on them yourself, or find a competent mechanic (Mercedes-Benz enthusiast) to do the work at a fraction of dealer/Euro auto shop cost.

Rollguy- agreed- I found a good "assembly line" body shop... and yes- I would buy the parts/bushing kits... just wondering- what I am looking at for hours-
roughly- to do all of that - bushings/mounts/ball joints- ALL at the same time to save - Labor $$$$

Lastly- does Thrust arm= lower control arm??? is it same thing??

tangofox007 · #21 09-22-2019, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sloride

No I don't, but they are great at attempting to sell more insurance than you need or will ever benefit from. Feel free to search here on how many threads give praise to insurance companies that pay a fair price on a thirty plus year old vehicle after a wreck, or anywhere near 17K.

I don't need to do a search to determine that you don't have a clue about my insurance policy.

97 SL320 · #22 09-22-2019, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

It's always great to hear from an expert. Tell me, does my insurance company have a record of not honoring its obligations?

E mail your insurance agent and ask to have a binding answer to the following questions in writing, on their letter head and sent by USPS.

1) What is the valuation of my car right now?

2) If my car should become damaged, at what % of value would it be considered a total loss and not be repaired?

3) If my car becomes a total loss for any reason, how much will the check written to me be?

97 SL320 · #23 09-22-2019, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

A "GOOD" shop (dealer quality=high price) will probably charge more for the job than the car is worth. It is best to find a shop (or friend/mechanic) that will work with you (using your supplied parts) on the suspension rebuild if you CAN'T do it yourself. These are very DIY friendly cars, and there are many suspension rebuild threads on this forum. The only real way to get good value from these cars is to work on them yourself, or find a competent mechanic (Mercedes-Benz enthusiast) to do the work at a fraction of dealer/Euro auto shop cost.

What would compel a competent shop to do a job at break even or a loss? Losing profit from parts and cutting labor rates is no way to run a business.

tangofox007 · #24 09-22-2019, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

E mail your insurance agent and ask to have a binding answer to the following questions in writing, on their letter head and sent by USPS.

1) What is the valuation of my car right now?

2) If my car should become damaged, at what % of value would it be considered a total loss and not be repaired?

3) If my car becomes a total loss for any reason, how much will the check written to me be?

First, I will need for you to send me, via certified mail, a copy or your insurance qualifications. On official letter head (sic), of course.

In any case, the agreed value of $17,150 is specified right on the declarations page.

ROLLGUY · #25 09-22-2019, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wallbenz

Rollguy- agreed- I found a good "assembly line" body shop... and yes- I would buy the parts/bushing kits... just wondering- what I am looking at for hours-
roughly- to do all of that - bushings/mounts/ball joints- ALL at the same time to save - Labor $$$$

Lastly- does Thrust arm= lower control arm??? is it same thing??

The 211 chassis has what is called a "thrust arm", and it does the same thing that a "guide rod" does on a 123 chassis. I am not as familiar with a 126 chassis (your 300SD), so I don't know if it has a trust arm, guide rod, or something else. However, the suspension parts for a 126 are also available. As far as the hours involved, many shops charge "book time". A 5 hour job by the book may only take an expert tech only 3 hours, while a DIY guy might take 7 to do the same job. I have no idea how many hours your car will take to rebuild the suspension.

97 SL320 · #26 09-22-2019, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

First, I will need for you to send me, via certified mail, a copy or your insurance qualifications. On official letter head (sic), of course.

Wow, this and your previous rants in this thread prove that untreated diesel exhaust isn't toxic and also promotes good grammar.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

In any case, the agreed value of $17,150 is specified right on the declarations page.

You could have been more specific about what type of coverage you have. Some here have been caught out by thinking Stated Value and Agreed Value were interchangeable only to find that their Stated Value policy would not fully cover them.

For the benefit of others, here is a bit from https://www.hagerty.com/insurance/insurance-tips-and-resources/stated-value-vs-guaranteed-value

Quote:

Actual Cash Value.Because most cars begin depreciating the moment they’re driven off the lot, standard insurance companies insure your cars accordingly. They will adjust your payout based on what the car would be worth the day of the accident (prior to any damage occurring), instead of what you originally paid. This is referred to as a vehicle’s Actual Cash Value.

Stated Value is coverage that reflects an amount that is “stated” at the onset of the policy. You tell your insurer what your car is worth (with proper documentation) and it is insured for that amount. The caveat here, however, is that the insurance company can choose to pay you either the Stated Value or the Actual Cash Value, whichever is less.

Alternatively, Agreed Value, coverage primarily offered by specialty insurers, is based on the proven value of your car as determined by you and the insurance company, according to appraisals, photos, or other relevant documentation. With Agreed Value coverage, the insurance company will guarantee that they will pay this agreed-upon value in the event of a covered total loss.

sloride · #27 09-22-2019, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

I don't need to do a search to determine that you don't have a clue about my insurance policy.

Of course I do not have any knowledge of "Your policy".. Relax I was just saying be careful and don't count on what your agent tells you. They are great at saying buy 17K in coverage then payout way less due to depreciation. Thats all end of story.

tangofox007 · #28 09-22-2019, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

You could have been more specific about what type of coverage you have.

I didn't ask for insurance advice, so there was no need for me to be specific about anything. If YOU feel the need to provide unsolicited advice, maybe YOU find out what kind of coverage is involved.

tangofox007 · #29 09-22-2019, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sloride

Of course I do not have any knowledge of "Your policy".. Relax I was just saying be careful and don't count on what your agent tells you. They are great at saying buy 17K in coverage then payout way less due to depreciation. Thats all end of story.

Depreciation is not a factor in an agreed value contract.

vwnate1 · #30 09-22-2019, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by koooop

And people laughed when I paid $5,000 for an immaculate, unrestored 240D a few years back.

Now I’m laughing at the idea of a 240D having a 5 figure value.

LOL

Wow, my '82 240D is worth maybe $3,500.00, I can't see it ever being worth more than that as I actually drive the darn thing, it drives very well indeed but is just a base model putt - putter, not even a sun roof nor power windows although the AC is ice cold.....

Sometimes I think jerkhoff rich folks diddle in the market and have no real idea what their vehicles are worth .