Looking at a local wagon for sale.. I noticed that it sags like a lowrider when left overnight but the owner says it levels up as he drives and sits right until he gets back out from work again 8 hours later and its back low again

What am I looking at in terms of repair and $$ ?

thanks
Peter

Rebuild the SLS valve, $50 rebuild kit from the Mercedes classic center. How to is in the peachparts wiki.

Check that the rear struts are not blown/ leaking. I'm not sure about the wagon but the saloon struts are NLA.

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Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-used-parts-sale-wanted/378935-why-i-will-never-do-business-dieselkraut-again.html

is yours really jouncy/bouncy over bumps in the road, railroad crossings, etc., like it's really stiff? mine was and it sagged overnight as well, but when I replaced the accumulators and filled the system with fresh fluid, it stopped sagging and rode beautifully.

Kent Bergsma has a couple really nice videos explaining the system on YouTube. Start with the leveling valve and then the nitrogen spheres like doofus says. If that doesn't solve the issue, its either the pump or the struts and you better pray its neither.

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Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-used-parts-sale-wanted/378935-why-i-will-never-do-business-dieselkraut-again.html

A method used to check the SLS accumulators is to remove the metal tubing from each. Using the eraser end of a pencil, gently push the pencil into the accumulator. If you meet with resistance the accumulator is probably still good. If pushing the pencil has little to no resistance that means the accumulators are due for replacement. Tom Hanson, Manager of the Parts Department at the Mercedes Classic Center, told me several years ago that the SLS struts seldom fail.

123 or 124 chassis? What year and model?

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

W123 1981 300TD

A bad accumulator won't sink overnight.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Well I checked the height from the center cap to the lip of the fender and its 12.25 inches... That should be good no?

Accumulators alone won't cause sagging - when they go you'll get a "bouncy ball" ride quality. Look to the proportioning valve first - that's most likely it.

12" from hub center to fender arch isn't sagged all the way, but ~13.5 is preferable.

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'82 300CD
"Pearl", the very first turbo diesel 123 coupe
Totaled 11/23/18, rebuild in progress.
'85 300TD, "Artemis".
'78 300D euro, "Ol' Red", mostly retired.
'85 300D, "Gandalf".

there is a small adjustable link that connects to the rear sway bar that actuates the proportioning valve. Damaged or worn parts can affect the ride level.



There are two holes for setting the position of the the adjustment arm, but technically the ride level is adjustable by the tiny turnbuckle in the link.
If you go replace the o-rings in the valve body you'll see all that stuff in the R&R


Hardest part is not stripping out the soft hex nuts for the hydraulic lines. Get some penetrating oil on any of that stuff way before try to remove them. Use the proper wrench. May have to use heat.

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1985 300TD 1981 Scirocco 1.6D conv 1986 Golf 1.6D 2003 Golf TDI