I thought the 350sd's had tons of Rod issues?

My Indy- always told me to stay away from them-

educate me

I completely agree on the seat issue. I am big guy... and loved that New spring seat... a good spring seat beats any foam seat- imo... a BAD spring seat - loses to ALL foam seats in today's cars.

really expensive to replace with new spring cushion... and I don't live on west coast were there are probably lot's of junkyard seat finds.

There's one on craigslist with 350k miles

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

They do or they don't. It's a spin of the roulette wheel. My 350SD seems to be one of the good ones, factory engine with 173K on it and runs perfect with zero oil consumption. It's often believed it's a matter of WHEN not IF the rods pretzel. Unlike the 3.0L, there is no cylinder liner so when the rods go it's game over. The extra torque is really nice, the reduction in fuel economy isn't so nice.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

W126 interior parts are actually pretty simple to replace, its just a matter of finding good parts. Mine was cheap in part because the interior was trashed, and I have fixed most of it and have almost all the parts to fix the rest plus extras. I don't think I would pay $5k for a 300SDL unless it was extremely nice though, $2k-$3500 would be about right for one in average condition. I have had both a 300SD and 300SDL, and the SDL really does drive much better, and seems to leak way less oil. If you have to drive on the freeway in fast moving traffic or go up steep hills the 5 cylinder isn't ideal either.

Appreciate your wisdom...

wts-
is a 150k SDL for $5.5k - and better interior
worth more or better deal than a 250k+ SDL for say $2.5-3k??? with more wear n tear inside... and extra 100k miles???

In other words- how much value do I place on 100,000 miles less car?

To My old MB 300sd mechanic's point... he basically said -"you will NOT get your money out of that car" - when I asked him his thoughts on me buying
an 84 300sd with 50,000 REAL miles on it (Cal. car) for $16,000

I didn't get into details... but guessing what he meant was- ton's of things/maint./$$- is going to b needed - regardless- of buying 35 year old car with 160k versus 50k (assuming bodies are non rust)...

so why pay it up front... his father- same shop/mechanic- said- buy the nicest one you can find... cuz it will save u in long run... so really conflicting views- same shop- both excellent / trustworthy mechanics. (by the way - I asked them same question separately -- on purpose- to check answers.)

anyone wanna chime in?

My- guess... son is right... cuz it's a crapshoot w/ car that is 35 years old... even though both cars might appear to be sound when you buy them... stuff- electric/wire/rubber- gonna go bad when it wants!

I would say buy the cheapest one you can find that:

-has absolutely no visible rust (like bubbles in the paint, etc)
-the engine appears to be in good shape
-runs and drives with current registration
-has decent paint

Everything else you can fix, and with stuff like suspension its better to buy a cheaper car and just replace it all than buy one that will need it anyway in 30k miles.

The best you can buy for a price that represents fairly what it is. There is one on sale on this site that is much the same as that 16K one for a much More reasonable price. Four to five thousand if I remember and by not looking again.

We also have a seller at 18K for what he has. A dealer and partial dreamer in my opinion. Open to offers. Try offering about what the other seller is selling for. Or let him continue with his thoughts of having a gold mine.

A premium on condition is not unreasonable. It just has to be fair. Not pie in the sky. Realistically for example I would expect to pay more for a coupe in almost identical condition than I would consider for a four door.

A site member went to an auto auction reciently. He felt a really nice example of a 300d would sell for about ten thousand. I believe he has a good sense of values. It went for twenty to his surprise perhaps. Organized sellers will bid each others cars by arrangement to set values. The business is full time for them. Some auction houses allow the practice. No real sale takes place. Yet the top bid remains on record. Done enough times and the average selling price is established. So buyers feel secure in buying at it. Where in reality it is part and parcel of a scam.

What I found strange was I think the same car was for sale privately just before then for twenty thousand. They are forced to manipulate values of available cars. There was a warning many years ago. To be careful in buying 1960s cars in the future. Far too many have been purchased and are being held for future sales. Old cars where a true hobby in my early years. Not the business it has become.

[QUOTE=barry12345;3968748]The best you can buy for a price that represents fairly what it is. There is one on sale on this site that is much the same as that 16K one for a much More reasonable price. Four to five thousand if I remember and by not looking again.

Where is the one for 4-5k? That is "same" as the $16k -- 50,000 mile car?

also- totally agree on how the dealers/auctions manipulate/try to make the "market demand"

Found a decentlaly good otherwise... is this still a deal breaker in your eyes?

Not exactly sure what you meant, but any rust is absolutely a deal breaker, the other stuff it depends on how cheap the car is and if you are willing to fix it.

Its like $30 for a seat spring from the junkyard here, someone could send you one if you wanted to pay the shipping cost im sure.

So- 4/5 little pimples on the outer edge of wheel well...
is a deal breaker?

I would send you photo- but listing is down for now.

Otherwise car/motor- seems pretty strong

You can really get a 7-8 "star" seat spring for under $50?

Must be southern cal - right?

I am in... if I ever end up needing one.

Better yet- u know members- who would do a Pre-inspection on cars down in S. Cal?