Breakdown on I-5, Oregon, near Eugene - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Usaguy · #31 10-21-2019, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by resto108

Put it on the dolly backwards, then you don't have to worry about disconnecting the driveshaft.

can't go faster than 45mph with this method. Anything faster and it will start to swing so much that you will end up in a ditch, rolled over.

merc lover · #32 10-21-2019, 05:50 PM

It appears that what we are saying is that an all wheels off the ground car trailer is the best method to move it.

engatwork · #33 10-21-2019, 06:23 PM

Quote:

can't go faster than 45mph with this method. Anything faster and it will start to swing so much that you will end up in a ditch, rolled over.

There was someone on here a few years ago that had this exact issue.

JHZR2 · #34 10-21-2019, 09:16 PM

I don’t doubt the dangers of towing a car with a steering box like ours on the front wheels.

The one time I had to have a car (not a Mercedes) towed that way, they locked the steering in a centered position and were very careful with it.

These cars have so much play often in the center, that’s not a useful proposition.

I wonder if the steering box centering boot that is supposed to be used for alignments was employed, if that would allow a true centering and thus a tow like that?

t walgamuth · #35 10-22-2019, 08:46 AM

Abandoning a car which does not have a high value and buying another which appears well maintained for not much more than the repair cost on vehicle #1 seems reasonable to me. We are speaking of long travel distances on the west coast so recovering a car can be an expensive proposition.

cmac2012 · #36 10-22-2019, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by merc lover

So, to better understand, you ditched or traded in the car at the repair facility then bought an SDL they had for sale?

Not exactly right. My 300SDL is at the place in Eugene waiting for me to forward funds to the garage to render it ambulatory. I debated bidding it a fond farewell. These things are not actual flesh and blood, not actually members of our family, so one should guard against trying to save them at all cost.

OTOH, my SDL is a remarkable car. I think it worth saving.

The 300D I newly acquired is a specimen. I’ll figure out how to post pics from my cell phone here in a minute. Will be a useful car.

cmac2012 · #37 10-22-2019, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

Radiators for the SDLs are NLA. Not available from Nissens either. Aftermarket are available from various Chinese manufacturers in all-aluminum format which seem to be ok. My 350SD had one and seemed to cool no worse than the stock radiator does.

My guy in Eugene said he found an all alum unit from a supplier in Philadelphia. Seems if its origin is China it could be found for less on the west coast. I’ll look. He mentioned a cost of $600. I’m a little surprised that there’s no scuttlebutt on adapting a similar radiator to work. It’s not a big mystery what has to happen.

cmac2012 · #38 10-22-2019, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by merc lover

It appears that what we are saying is that an all wheels off the ground car trailer is the best method to move it.

I've towed this car twice on such a trailer. Both times helping relatives move, pulling a Uhaul trailer with one of their trucks, better powered and younger than my Chev G20. Both times it made economic sense to rent the trailer and haul the car. 400 miles one time and 250 the other. Time and money both economized.

I like this van, it's a bit of a classic (all my vehicles are from the 80s, the van an '89). I recently had a years long issue with it stalling at stoplights, would not stay running at idle while in gear w/o major throttle attention. I finally bit the bullet and took it to a great mechanic I know. Turns out the distributor was on its last legs. I only drive it maybe 1000 miles a year so it limped along. Runs like a champ now. I had replaced the cap and rotor but never thought to examine the actual distributor. Had rebuilt the throttle body injector - also the stomp test said 'new throttle position sensor' - that didn't solve it. I hunted in vain for a vacuum leak. Would have likely dropped dead one day, maybe even have started a fire.

But next truck I get I'll make sure it has good enough towing capacity to haul such a trailer. But this one is useful for my work for. Having just rescued it from the dead, not sure I want to flog it over the mountains of Southern Oregon and Nor Cal hauling my 4000 lb mbz.

cmac2012 · #39 10-22-2019, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

Abandoning a car which does not have a high value and buying another which appears well maintained for not much more than the repair cost on vehicle #1 seems reasonable to me. We are speaking of long travel distances on the west coast so recovering a car can be an expensive proposition.

It needs a bit of work, but it has a lot of potential. The interior is cherry, no cracks on the dash, seats are excellent.

t walgamuth · #40 10-23-2019, 08:05 AM

That looks nice! Its hard to beat a 123 diesel!

cmac2012 · #41 10-24-2019, 08:11 PM

^ It has a number of small issues that need help. Nothing overwhelming. But the engine runs like a sewing machine. This car has a lot of miles left on it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 83w126

I have a complete #18 head I would sell for $350 if you end up needing one.

I may seriously look into that.

83w126 · #42 10-26-2019, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmac2012

^ It has a number of small issues that need help. Nothing overwhelming. But the engine runs like a sewing machine. This car has a lot of miles left on it.

I may seriously look into that.

If you are interested let me know, I am close enough to Berkeley you could come pick it up. Its just as pulled from a Pick-N-Pull car but seems to be undamaged. I found a newer #22 I would use for my car if I needed it so I don't need this one. It seems like nobody really even pulls them anymore, I have seen 5 of them (and pulled 3 of them) within the last year.

cmac2012 · #43 10-30-2019, 02:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

How so? What objective evidence is there that a 132k mile w123 is a disaster?

Towing with a flat trailer in an underpowered van is another story.

Since it was a radiator and not a HG, swapping in a new or good used radiator should be step one on the SD, then see if everything else is sound. May be salvageable.

I am astonished sometimes at my ignorance. Turns out I can get it shipped from Eugene down to here for $595. My welder neighbor (former shop neighbor, still friend) told me about it, said 'haven't you ever seen those auto pack semis loaded up and they aren't all new cars?

Towing it on a dolly would have been about $350 in gas (round trip), likely more, about $100 dolly rental fee, and the hassle of removing the driveshaft. As I have nowhere to do it, would like have had to pay the garage where it sits to do so. Not to mention 2 days of my time for the round trip. Renting a 1 ton Uhaul van and auto trailer would have been $586 (no sales tax in Oregon), cost of gas for 550 miles, my cost to get there and spend the night, and again two days of my time.

My welder buddy races dwarf cars, tows a trailer all the time and he mentioned something that occurred to me though I didn't know the specifics. If you're towing something and you break down, Triple A will tow you in but you will pay large to get that trailer towed off the road and into storage.

cmac2012 · #44 10-30-2019, 03:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

The newest w123 is 1985, so it would be at least a 34 years old car. How reliable would that be just off an used car lot? I would take a 34 years old car with 132k miles with a big pinch of salt unless it is kept in museum. I can make it 0 miles if I wanted to.

I drive old Mbz and I have never been stranded. I drive up and down from San Diego to SF a few times a year so it is on average a 1200 miles trip. May be I have been lucky but I also have confidence in my old bangers. The bottom line is that I treat them as disposal cars and move on if it dies.

I assumed that a car with that mileage and looking that pristine had been well cared for. I made it where I was going and back home but it wasn't the greatest road trip ever. The tank either needs cleaning or replacing. Not sure if there is a point at which the tank is beyond saving. The primary filters get clogged after a few days. Tonight I cleaned one out with WD40, the can with the spray nozzle. Took some doing.

The tach doesn't work; climate control blows hot, always; shift linkage bushings are shot, vacuum very weak. I'll do a compression test soon. If it's good, this is a near cherry, and odo does read 132K. If I get all the bugs out could be worth a few pennies.

t walgamuth · #45 10-30-2019, 08:05 AM

You need to treat your diesel tank with biocide to kill the bacteria.