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  #16  
Old 11-05-2019, 02:53 PM
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That was my thought. That's the way it is on my 300D. I removed the SDL radiator and it was tranny and water lines only.

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  #17  
Old 11-05-2019, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post
It just occurs to me that I removed the radiator on my 300SDL and there are tranny lines to the lower part but no oil lines. It's a turbo, not sure what's up with that. I've searched a little bit, haven't found a definitive answer yet. Maybe it's in front of the main radiator. Mine will be back in my clutches soon, I'll check it out.
The engine oil cooler on the 603 powered 126's is tucked up under the front bumper below the driver's side headlight. The SDL radiator only handles engine cooling and transmission cooler.
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  #18  
Old 11-05-2019, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
The engine oil cooler on the 603 powered 126's is tucked up under the front bumper below the driver's side headlight. The SDL radiator only handles engine cooling and transmission cooler.
Good to know. Mine arrives from up north in a couple of days. Reading about how failure of the oil lines on the 617 cars can lead to engine loss got me to thinking. I imagine similar difficulty could be a reality for the 603.
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  #19  
Old 11-05-2019, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post
... failure of the oil lines on the 617 cars can lead to engine loss ...
Yes, you don't want that evil power steering hose to attack the upper oil cooler hose. That happened in my 1984 300D, but apparently just a few miles from home on a 600 mile drive by my son. He arrived w/ oil dripping below the car and a broken fan belt hanging, but still a few quarts of oil in the pan. Usually it happens from sagged motor mounts, but in my case, it appears the broken fan belt caused the p.s. belt to flip over so it was sticking out farther, plus its serrations were outward like a saw blade as it rubbed the oil cooler line, to cut a small hole. That sprayed up on the hood underside.

I have since changed the rubber hose in the oil cooler lines in both my 300D, when I had the motor mount off for other reasons (weld repair in one car). I used AC hose and a Master-cool crimper. If you do re-hose, make the upper hose 1" longer to keep it further from the p.s. pulley. Also, orient the fitting to help keep it away.
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  #20  
Old 11-08-2019, 03:54 PM
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Wow, good cautionary tale.

On another note, I have not before adjusted valves on a 617. I’m sitting the car for now until I do a few things, starting with that, a compression test, and removal and cleaning of the gas tank. I’m sorry, fuel tank.

Has anybody use these wrenches?

https://www.etsy.com/listing/614491715/mercedes-benz-diesel-valve-adjustment?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_b-electronics_and_accessories-car_parts_and_accessories-car_parts&utm_custom1=131bf3ec-4c73-4e6d-9a6b-03b30e4b2c62&utm_content=go_304501955_22746060035_78727290395_pla-106550428115_m__614491715&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwsGWnr7b5QIVyyCtBh0dHw5oEAQYASABEgIVcvD_BwE

They’re a bit more affordable than some of the others I’ve seen.

Speaking of fuel tank, I gather there is a mesh screen filter at the bottom of it, I’m surprised the primary in-line filter would be terminally clogged, and that one on the tank still allowing fuel to pass.
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  #21  
Old 11-09-2019, 08:50 AM
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The Hazet wrench set has a 3rd, larger wrench used down low to prevent the valve rotating. I let mine go with the 240D I sold a few years ago. Thought I was done adjusting valves, but just got a nice 1982, 300SD last month and first adjustment went fine with just the 2 main, used, Hazet wrenches I found.. Don
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  #22  
Old 11-09-2019, 01:19 PM
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Thanks! I'll keep an eye out for those.
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  #23  
Old 11-14-2019, 02:09 PM
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I've heard over the years that finding mechanics who know how to deal with things like fluid leaks in old Mercedes Diesels can be tough. I've spoken of him elsewhere, I met a 50ish Vietnamese guy who cut his teeth on Mercedes Diesels in Vietnam. He smogged my Bimmer a few times. Owns two 350SDs. I had a stalling problem in my '89 Chev 5.0 van that I could not find, did much looking, so I took it to him and he found it. The distributor was shot. Runs so much better now. I went by to pick it up in my SDL, he was psyched to see it. Same engine series as his 350SDs of course.

Long story short, the guy is good, I may need to stop insisting on doing ALL of my own work. I spoke to him about the fuel tank rust issue - he suggested skipping cleaning the old one and just getting a new tank. Does seem to have merit. I see price ranges of low $300 to nearly $500.

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