Just replaced head with rebuilt one from machine shop and put back on car with new head bolts and new head gasket,torqued in correct sequence and correct torque but have oil leak on intake side.Im thinking of going past the 100 NM or 75 ft pounds to see if that will stop the leak.
Other then risking snapping a head bolt off, what would happen any one had a problem like this and overcome it.

Another member retorqued an M103 head with success, want to do mine but haven't yet. If you're confident in the accuracy of the torque wrench used, I'd try a retorque by loosening each bolt slightly and then retorquing plus 5 or so pounds.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Except that if I remember correctly the last torque step on his engine is X amount of degrees.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Not authorized in any factory manual but I spray head gaskets on both sides with any version generic or the real copper-coat (copper-koat?).

That helps to seal any water or oil passages.

Was the Block checked to see if it was warped?

The other issue would be are you sure it is leaking from between the head and bock?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

cylinder head bolt tightening steps for your engine:


40nm
70nm
wait 10 min
90 degrees
another 90 degrees


you probably used a tightening sequence for engines before 1979 (100nm last step)


more info:
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/617/01-405.pdf

Diesel911, Yes you are correct it is in degrees not NM or ft/lbs. IIRC the member just retorqued them all to 85??? ft/lbs and no leaks. It is so frustrating to a job meticulously by the book, using quality parts to still have a leak that some other method/shortcut is tried. The best way, no but sometimes... It was on a very different engine too.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

That’s exactly what I did over tighten the dam thing with 100NM.
Any suggestions would be appreciated thanks for the quick reply‘s

Mercedes recommends head bolt threads and under head of bolt to be lubricated with light oil,never dry.

Unfortunately you do the best you can some times and things still go bad.

But, I don't think that him following the proper torque procedure is the cause of the leak.

Going by what has happened to me in the past it is often that I overlooked something or some thing happed like while I was installing the part something got under the gasket.

Also I have read a lot about people sending head off to the machine shop but little about them taking a precision straight edge on the block to see if the block is warped.

When I did the sort of work the OP did I was carful there was no gasket material left on the block or corrosion, I chased the threads with a tap and blasted the inside with compressed are so there was no oil or particles left in the bottom.

I though I also read some where some companies head bolts were a little longer and came with some Washers in the kit and there was certain places where you needed the washers or the bolt would bottom out.

In any event when it happens to you it is sometimes hard to find the issue and it is extremely harder know what is going on if you are not there to actually see it and experience what was done.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thank you everyone for the impute,I’m going to back off the bolts redo to 85 ft #.
I will let everyone know the out come,Thanks

What type of gasket is it? Rubber or crush type? I can understand backing off a rubber
o-ring but a crush type gasket?? Mite want to do a little research before proceeding.

Go back up and re-read Reply #5, he even gave you a link to the factory service manual which spells it out in black and white. 85 ft-lb is significantly under torqued. You should have the torque-to-yield bolts which are tightened in increments, then rotated a certain number of degrees. The final torque will be significantly greater than 85 ft-lb.

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