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#1
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Garrett T3 eats the Turbine Nut?
At least I think that's what happened. I am getting my om617.952 motor ready for transplant into a Toyota pickup but I just noticed, "hey that unexplained damage could have been caused by that missing 12pt nut, right"
hopefully, I can post the photo, but the fins are dented up and the PO told me he "Had a new turbo put in" but who knows how it was taken care of after that. I took off the manifolds and saw the missing nut and now I'm thinking my long starts and excessive blowby might be from an ingested nut.... to make matters worse I'm a long way off from a compression test as I sold the bellhousing adaptor and have already taken off the flywheel and starter toooooooooo... So now I'm just not sure what next, "new" turbo for sure or rebuild with new shaft and fanny bits, but I'm not sure I wanna put all the work into this engine if it is gonna have a bad cylinder or worse.... Facts: turbo has very little to no wiggle or in and out movement donor car was fastish and fun to drive even with the blowby and long cranks to start no blue smoke from exhaust but some whiteish with the blowby even when warm the engine ran smoothly and without excessive heat or anything Thoughts dieselheads?
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1983 240d 5Sp SOLD 1986 300D(LUCO) SOLD 1983 300TD(dreamboat)SOLD 1984 240d (Executive)SOLD 1984 240d (Euripides) SOLD 1982 300sd SOLD 1982 300sd (Ambas)SOLD |
#2
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You can turn over the engine from the front crank bolt. When in the car, I use the large hex on the power steering pulley (22 mm long wrench). Chalk the crank and turn it over twice. If you must fight each cylinder and wait a few seconds as you hear it hiss down, you have good compression. That is probably better than a pressure measurement anyway, and more like a leak-down test. Unfortunately, there is no way to get an endoscope view of the pistons without pulling the pre-chambers (tough), but might be inconclusive anyway.
I am sure you could get another turbo-charger cheap at a junkyard or on ebay. I rebuilt one to fix an oil leak. It was fairly simple. Just insure you know which way to turn the nut on the compressor wheel. Most are a left-hand thread (so they don't come off in operation).
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#3
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thanks, thats not a bad idea. I do a similiar test with a 2stroke so i get it!
Chalk the crank though? not sure I know what you mean by that. I have the engine on the stand so i can get to the 27mm crank bolt pretty easily ATM
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1983 240d 5Sp SOLD 1986 300D(LUCO) SOLD 1983 300TD(dreamboat)SOLD 1984 240d (Executive)SOLD 1984 240d (Euripides) SOLD 1982 300sd SOLD 1982 300sd (Ambas)SOLD |
#4
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well I just got back from the junkyard, I found a great looking tight Garrett t3 turbo so I picked it up with the hardware for like 63$. I'll probably put new seals and bushings/bearings in it and call it good.
My current engine was consistent and tight turning it over by hand, probably worth risking it having a low cylinder considering how well it ran before, Thanks for the help!!!
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1983 240d 5Sp SOLD 1986 300D(LUCO) SOLD 1983 300TD(dreamboat)SOLD 1984 240d (Executive)SOLD 1984 240d (Euripides) SOLD 1982 300sd SOLD 1982 300sd (Ambas)SOLD |
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