I have a red 1984 300CD. The red one has some rust issues. I decided to buy another one that has no rust whatsoever. I found an extremely clean 1982 300CD. No rust, boring color. Years ago I out an EGR delete kit in. Now I can't find an EGR delete kit.

Nice cars.

Would love to drive a coupe some day, with the hydraulic suspension.

I have an 85 wagon but that car must be great fun to drive.

Coupes don't have hydraulic suspensions. But, the coupes are definitely a more smooth, quiet ride than the 4 doors w123s I have driven. Does anyone know why that is? Is there more sound deadener material in the coupes?

I believe ROLLGUY (Rich) on this forum sells the EGR delete kit.

I thought hydraulic suspension was an option in both the sedans and the coupes. Or, at least self-leveling rears.

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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles

I'm going to delete the EGR on my newly acquired 300D as well. Need to read up on cleaning the intake manifold as part of the process.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Kidding? That cream coupe is beautiful. I even like the original headlights, after changing to plastic Euro lights (Depo) on my 1984 300D. I might just get some new headlight doors for my 1985 instead.

I bought the EGR delete plates from RollGuy here. He began packaging them in nice shrink wrap cards. It was a bit fussy trying to tighten the exhaust clamp without the block-off plate popping out, but I eventually got it. I doubt the EGR was still working on my two 300D's anymore, given the clap-trap of vacuum controls and hoses. Without the EGR valve, it is much easier to adjust the alternator belt, plus I also re-routed the h.p. AC run off the R side of the engine (clutzy design).

I don't know about cleaning the intake manifold innards without removing it. Direct-injection gas engines are having the same coking problem, needing removal and cleaning every 50k miles. I understand that some of the newest DI engines, spray a little gas after the throttle plate just to keep the intake clean. I don't know if spraying sea foam in the turbo intake once in a while would help much. If you ever have the exhaust off, consider burning the soot out. I have seen youtubes where they heat it with a hair dryer, light the carbon w/ a torch, then keep blowing the hair dryer cold to keep the flame blasting. I wouldn't do that on an aluminum intake though.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

i have a set of spare intake and exhaust manifolds that have already been deleted, and are pretty clean as well, PO installed. if anyone is interested.

I found '79 non egr turbo manifolds a long time ago and am putting those on.

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1983 240d 5Sp SOLD
1986 300D(LUCO) SOLD
1983 300TD(dreamboat)SOLD
1984 240d (Executive)SOLD
1984 240d (Euripides) SOLD
1982 300sd SOLD
1982 300sd (Ambas)SOLD

If the coupes were available with hydraulic suspension, I'm not aware of it. I could be wrong.

ROLLGUY sent me info to buy his EGR delete kit.

The light ivory is boring. Color is too important to ignore. And, since I'm never, ever going to sell the car, I'm painting it.

Signalrot or Saharagelb?

What's the reason to remove the EGR?

The primary function of the EGR system is to gunk up your intake manifold. The secondary function is to complicate access to the exhaust side of the engine. A minor tertiary function is to be an additional source of vacuum leak.

If you live in an area subject to visual emission inspection, leave it in place but plug it.

The original intent of the EGR was that it supposedly reduced oxides of nitrogen. In the long run it didn't really do that. The actual result was the 3 'functions' that Rock R listed.

Last year for the wonderful paint was 1983.
I have 1985 300TD but the black paint is bad and I wish that it was lacquer of any color.
I think if you installed some Huper Optic tint and Euro lights might toughen it up enough to get past the color.
This one has the ceramic tint on the front window you can see because the camera had a polarizer.

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Rocky pretty much hit the nail on the head; there is no good function! LOL If you ask a pencil pushing engineer though... they'll give you some boring, tired, worn out monologue about emissions (boooooo!) The idea is high heat/compression in an abundance of oxygen creates oxides. The way to get rid of that is to remove excess oxygen with an inert gas (ie. already burned exhaust gasses lacking oxygen). In theory though, it shouldn't work as well on a diesel as it does a gasser if you really think about it. Diesels are always running lean at part throttle so there's leftover oxygen almost always I'd imagine... where as a gasser consumes all of the oxygen in a cycle and limits flow via a throttle blade.

The addition of the big airbox and flapper-style airflow meter also has to do solely with EGR function. That can be deleted as well for a little less restriction on the turbo inlet side. I've gone so far as to delete everything vacuum operated on the right side of the motor and man is it less cluttered over there

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{2010 Mazda 3 266,000mi} - daily since new, Airlift suspension + some chunky sway-bars: fastest pass 17.7@77MPH
{1987 300SDL 256,000mi} - stock turbo @ 22lbs straight piped + a whole bunch of pre-turbo water/meth injection, 722.3 with increased line pressure, special sauce, and shift kit: fastest pass 16.5@82
{1992 964 Carrera 4 Frankenstein ??,???mi} - 993 forward dated, Speedster conversion, GT45 + E85: fastest pass 12.5@113