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  #1  
Old 11-04-2019, 11:54 AM
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OM606 Stuck Glow Plug Crossroads

98 E300 is at the mechanic to replace the #5 glow plug (original). All that it needs to pass inspection. Intake manifold is off and mechanic, trying all the usual tricks, doesn't think the plug is going to come out. So my son needs to figure out what to do. Mechanic has not had good results over the years trying to deal with a broken plug on the 606 with the head in place. So, if we were to fix it, he would lean in the direction of finding a replacement head. Obviously big $$$. But cheaper than buying a new car.

Furthermore, mechanic has seen instances where, when a plug breaks, it breaks in such a way that compression is lost.

I guess my inclination is to apply more torque and see what happens.

Other than AC which is prohibitively expensive to repair, car is well maintained with relatively low miles. Some rust but not much.

Thoughts?

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  #2  
Old 11-04-2019, 12:57 PM
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This happened to me, with the same car, 20 years ago. At the fanciest shop in town they let it sit overnight and with the engine cold the next morning, while I was there watching, broke the first glow plug he tried.

I was angry because I knew that the engine needed to be hot. In fact Hunter always recommends run the engine until hot, remove the first glow plug and then run the engine again before each and every glow plug.

It cost me 3,000 dollar to rescue the car from the shop and that was the last time that any of my machines have been to a shop.

They removed the head and sent it to a machine shop.

Now when I do the job I ream out the hole and use Liqui Moly LM 508 Anti-Seize Compound on the threads so that this never happens again. And always use Beru glow plugs. Many more years of service life.
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2019, 03:21 PM
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Plug #5 is one of the easier ones to get at so that's good.
I've had great success with impact drivers. Hot engine, set it on medium torque, and go back and fourth between tighten and loosen continuously until it comes out. expect to spend upward of one hour per plug working it out slowly.
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Old 11-04-2019, 03:28 PM
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I don't know how similar the OM606 is, but here is how I removed stuck glow plugs in an OM603 using a nut cut in half: GregMN's 1991 W126 350SDL Has A New Home
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  #5  
Old 11-04-2019, 05:18 PM
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We gave the mechanic the green light to forge ahead....and it eventually came out. So dodged a bullet.
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  #6  
Old 11-04-2019, 08:31 PM
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Make sure some never-seeze type compound gets on the threads.
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  #7  
Old 11-04-2019, 08:33 PM
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Congratulation!!
I have done many glow plugs on my old 606. The secret is lots of penetrating oil and having the engine completely hot and heat sunk.

I had some that squeaked and squealed all the way out. Real pucker factor.
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Old 11-06-2019, 06:05 AM
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The best penetrating oil out there is Kroil. Nothing can hold a candle to it in my opinion. I've used it on a running 606 engine to back a stubborn gp out.
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  #9  
Old 11-06-2019, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiodieselMB View Post
Now when I do the job I ream out the hole and use Liqui Moly LM 508 Anti-Seize Compound on the threads so that this never happens again. And always use Beru glow plugs. Many more years of service life.
The problem of stuck glow plugs has absolutely nothing to do with the threads of the plug seizing in the aluminum head. The problem is the seal between the combustion chamber and the tip of the glow plug fails and over time carbon packs up into the cylindrical channel from the sealing point up to the threads.

Reaming is an important step since the reamer will remove crap from the sealing surface in the head and give you a much better chance of having the new plug seal correctly.

There are quite a few aftermarket broken glow plug removal tools on e-bay, recently I removed a broke glowplug on an OM648 with one of the kits and it worked well. You have to be careful and go slowly but a broken glow plug can be drilled out and removed pretty easily with one of these kits.
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Old 11-06-2019, 11:52 AM
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One other thing to consider when installing glow plugs with anti-seize compound on the threads is that lubricant on the threads significantly effects the published torque specification. As I recall you have to decrease the torque spec by 40-50% when using a dry spec with a lubricant on the threads.

When you're threading steel into aluminum threads this can be a bit significant.
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  #11  
Old 11-06-2019, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
Plug #5 is one of the easier ones to get at so that's good.
I've had great success with impact drivers. Hot engine, set it on medium torque, and go back and fourth between tighten and loosen continuously until it comes out. expect to spend upward of one hour per plug working it out slowly.

This is exactly how it's done by the dealership tech's. Use a 3/8" drive impact...….
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  #12  
Old 11-06-2019, 12:18 PM
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One thing I want to point out is he said it’s easier to find a replacement head. I’d have to say he isn’t very bright considering you could bring it to a machine shop, and have them extract it. Other than that, the furthest 2 cylinders are the Ones that break the most. I’ve had 5 working plugs for 2-3 years. Smokes and evens out quickly.
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  #13  
Old 11-06-2019, 12:40 PM
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Here is what I did on a cold engine:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fC0TK0LkRQ


Text from the video:
"A dangerous trick to try and prevent glow plug issues during removal.



First lightly tap the plug with air hammer. Then ever so gently work the glowplug back and fourth with a little tapping between movements. After a couple cycles of this very slowly back out the plug. In this application only the tip of the plug extends into the prechamber. The point of entry to the prechamber collects carbon which seizes the tip in place. If plug removal with tip seized in place is attempted it can break off of the threaded plug body and create a large, not very fun project.



Don't punch a hole in your head!"


I got the idea from the Duramax tool, as seen in action here:


https://youtu.be/EwQmFHIWQjQ?t=101

Be sure to ream out the carbon every time you have a plug removed, that is critical for glow plug life and performance.
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Old 11-06-2019, 04:05 PM
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Shocking the threads with a hammer or air chisel is always a good idea on anything that goes into aluminum. Since glowplugs are so cheap and replaced upon removal Even Porsche service manuals tell you to get the 12point head-bolts a solid whack if troublesome to remove and I've had a couple I thought were going to break for sure.

Another interesting method I came across on youtube involves some drilling, tapping, and slide hammering but worth taking a look at if you're all out of other options.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9AO_cDdwS8
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  #15  
Old 11-06-2019, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoMuchBoost View Post
Shocking the threads with a hammer or air chisel is always a good idea on anything that goes into aluminum.



The vibration needs to be applied to the plug end through the electrical terminal, this is the piece which usually breaks off of the threaded body. The tip gets seized into the prechamber with carbon, the vibration loosens this so the whole tip and body assembly will rotate when removed. This problem becomes worse if the plug tip expands as it fatigues with many high heat cycles. The threaded plug body usually comes out without too much protest either way.



OM606 Stuck Glow Plug Crossroads-plug.png

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