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  #1  
Old 06-16-2002, 09:25 PM
mjkinsley
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Unhappy cracked upper oil pan

replacing the gasket between the upper and lower oil pans today, the upper pan cracked at one of the bolt holes. i now hold in my hand (well, when i'm done typing) a small piece of the upper oil pan. my question is: does this mean replacement of the entire upper oil pan? i'm thinking it can't just be welded or repaired (at least without having to remove it and if that's the case i'd just replace the pan). any suggestions before i have it hauled to the shop (haven't replaced the oil fearing it might all leak out while i'm driving). thanks.

mike
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Old 06-16-2002, 10:24 PM
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If you can clean it well.. I mean wiping the area with acetone or alcohol until the wiping cloth comes off it totally clean you can probably put hi temp RTV onto it for a temp patch... but It may last 50,000 miles or more... be sure to read all the instructions and let it cure like two days before turning on the engine or anything else...yes,, that is twice as long as they say leave it alone... but might be worth it if it stays a long time.... Greg
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Old 06-18-2002, 08:25 AM
mjkinsley
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greg, thanks for your reply. what is rtv? and where does one get it? i'm hoping to post a photo of the damage this week, maybe it's not as bad as i'd thought. until then...
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Old 06-18-2002, 08:38 AM
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Sorry, as a goo enthusiast I assume everyone knows these terms.....

Room Temperature Vulcanizing .... Silicone ,,, and I would use the red gasket heat resistant type... GE is one brand but don't know any bad ones...Devcon,locktite,

In other words... the heat resistant stuff used for sealing gaskets to metal... they have lots of body... but if you need to span an open space you can just use something like brass sheet ( shim stock) and place it on the outside to get initial support to the gob of RTV.....

All regular auto parts stores have it , but may can get it at any hardware store.

cleanliness is the key... and leaving it with no load 24 hours at least to cure to final strength...
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Old 06-21-2002, 01:09 PM
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I would use JB Weld. Be sure and get the one that is rated for 800 degrees. Clean the piece and the pan with Brake cleaner. It will last forever. It is 2 part epoxy formulated for this type of repair. A couple of bucks at Lowe's or most hardware stores.JB weld specs
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Last edited by sainttammany; 06-21-2002 at 01:28 PM.
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  #6  
Old 06-21-2002, 03:06 PM
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I love JBWeld,,, but from the description I thought Mike was wanting to seal to keep the oil from leaking from that hole... JBWeld might leave one with a mess to deal with when a real fix is attempted... or when the pan needed to come off for a regular gasket... If the pan can come off for the fix then someone should be able to heliarc it....or but it really has to be clean,,, then heated and brushed a couple of times... and oil in the pores can cause a bad weld....

Mike ,,, I thought you were going to take a picture of the problem... ? that would help in trying to advise on good solutions...

PS, they have silicones which can be used to make flexible molds in which to cast Bronze.... and the high temp RTV will certainly withstand any temps the block or pan will ever reach....
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  #7  
Old 06-21-2002, 03:26 PM
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the upper pan cracked at one of the bolt holes. i now hold in my hand (well, when i'm done typing) a small piece of the upper oil pan

The JB weld will hold. Simply use it to "Glue" the piece back in or fill the void with JB. If the threads are broken or stripped in the upper pan, fill it with JB and retap it. The threads in the upper pan probably go all the way through, back it up with a lock nut. Do not over tighten. 6 ft lbs I believe. I have seen it used on cracked blocks, water jackets and such. I have not seen it fail.
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  #8  
Old 06-21-2002, 10:47 PM
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Ive had problems with JB Weld coming loose over time due to expansion differences between the metal and the JB, but it might hold, you never know. Its wortth a try
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Old 06-22-2002, 09:59 AM
mjkinsley
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sorry greg, i havn't received my camera yet, so no photo. but sainttammany is right, it is a small piece of the upper pan that broke off, so i am looking for soemthing more like jb weld to reunite the stray piece! it's very small, and the more i think about it, it shouldn't pose too big of a problem. but i will also seal the hell out of the gasket on both sides for an extra measure of protection. and for this i will use rtv. so you are both helping me out a great deal, and i really appreciate it. I'm gonna try the jb weld today (after cleaning it), let it sit until late tomorrow afternoon, and reseal the pans w/ rtv and gasket. how's that sound?
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  #10  
Old 06-24-2002, 09:47 PM
mjkinsley
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ok, i used the jb weld, let it set for 24 hours and 'caulked' the snot out around the bolt hole in question, completed my oil change, and started it up. no leaks yet, but i only ran it about three miles then idled for about 20 minutes. i will be keeping a sharp eye on it (as have always religiously checked my oil), and hopefully it holds. this may have been a bad time to experiment with synthetic oil, as the higher viscosity may have a way of finding any leaks easier. oh well, i can always change back. btw, i changed the hatch struts (finally), and almosts cracked my jaw upon opening! i have to remember: i don't need to pull up on the hatch anymore! thanks for all the help (if you don't hear anymore from me on this matter, all is well)!!
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