at about 120k, i noticed that when i would coast, i would hear a dull clicking from the rear -- it would go away under load -- i checked the universal, rear axle cv joints, seemed ok -- so i replaced the differential -- no change -- was fine for 50k more miles, same symptoms -- finally, its gotten worse, had to abort a trip last week, as this noise got louder, only way i got home was to stop periodically and back up -- of course, back in town, at 30mph, it would no longer make the noise -- just crawled out from under, no immediately obvious issues, so now i will start to take the rear end components off -- funny thing is, i seem to remember my old 76 240d making the same noise. ????

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81 240D: Lola
77 toyota chinook: Carlito
93 chevy k1500: Cowboy

Classic symptoms of failing axle shafts/CV joints.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

thanks for the input -- i hope you're right, since thats a lot easier job for me than doing the axle bearing

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81 240D: Lola
77 toyota chinook: Carlito
93 chevy k1500: Cowboy

Axle bearings won't make a clicking noise, instead a rumble/roar that changes in gentle turns as weight is increased (louder) vs. decreased (quieter). Backing up and the clicking goes away temporarily is a sign of a worn cv joint. You may be able to narrow it down and change just one side. Don't drive it a lot, especially fast, a bad CV joint can on rare occasions fail catastrophically.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

definitely no driving, she's up on jackstands in the driveway -- after a lifetime of used cars, i keep enough of them around that i'm covered -- definitely not a rumble -- and i've been reading old posts all night that support what you're saying

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81 240D: Lola
77 toyota chinook: Carlito
93 chevy k1500: Cowboy

I hope you take some photos of what you find and do to fix it .

Depending on where you live, how deep your pockets are and how much you like to get filthy there are several avenues to take with noisy CV joints .

I drove one of my W123's with horrible crunching & banging sounds for three weeks because at the time it was my only daily driver and I couldn't afford to throw new / rebuilt axles at it .

All those neighborhood axle rebuilders have gone away now .

Many other M-B's use the easily boot able annular typ axles, they fit a wide variety of old M-B's that are still plentiful in Western junkyards for under $20 each, then you'll need to take it apart, clean inspect and re pack it and install new boots, I use M-B factory boots, they're neither cheap nor terribly expen$ive .

Keep us posted please .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

at 71, i'm a little slower than i used to be, not because of impairment, but by choice, so this will take some time -- but i always give feedback when the jobs over, and am most appreciative of this forum's members -- saved my ass several times over the past years, with 3 240ds -- thanks for the imput

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81 240D: Lola
77 toyota chinook: Carlito
93 chevy k1500: Cowboy

Thanx Roky ;

The amount of help I've received here is mind boggling .

They even lead me to my '84 300TD gray market fully optioned wagon that SWMBO (well past 70) loves, drives and won't let me sell on .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

If the axles have not been switched side for side before, you can do so to lower repair costs.
Most of the wear is the forward direction.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

no, thats what i'd of done back when i was still paying child support -- "lola" is our #1 vehicle, so she gets what she needs, which hasn't been much over the years -- it'll be new axles
but thanks for the tip

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81 240D: Lola
77 toyota chinook: Carlito
93 chevy k1500: Cowboy

Since the noise is not constant yet. Plus the boots on the outer cv joints are not leaking. Remove the small clamp from the boot. Take something like a turkey baster and inject several ounces of oil. A plastic tube may help to inject the heavy oil. Once the noise is constant it usually is too late. New clamp and test it for awhile locally.


What I believe happens is at speed because of the lack of lubrication. The parts heat. As they expand they drag or stick. The click is the forced movement of the parts. I consider the cv joint shot when it becomes constant all the time. .For the effort expended to me it is worth trying. Of course seriously increased wear is occurring when they are too dry.


We have never had a member after doing this come back and claim it did not last or work if caught early. The boots have to be good of course. Personally I do not like or trust the Chinese replacements. They sell for as low as 49.00 a side. That means their wholesale price in China is probably less than 10.00. To expect any form of decent quality at those prices is pointless.

good point

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81 240D: Lola
77 toyota chinook: Carlito
93 chevy k1500: Cowboy

I found a pair of annular axles, bought them and service them using M-B grease boots & clamps, I had a Mechanic I know install them for me and he neglected to tighten the 8MM inner joint to flange bolts.....

Luckily I was pulling up to a stop light when one let go so no thrashing around nor damage .

Imagine if I'd been on the freeway going 85 when an inner end came loose ! .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

not done, but new axles are in, using cheapos until i can get to my rebuilder, which will be a while -- note, solution to reusing old spacers on these new axles is not to buy thinner spacers -- they are the right thickness, just need to enlage the inner whole of the spacer, to avoid the "lip" on the new axle, and sit flush, rather than proud -- then circlips are a correct, snug fit
also would seem easier to clear the hub when removing axles to first remove diff mount so it can be raised to maximum -- since it has to come off anyway

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81 240D: Lola
77 toyota chinook: Carlito
93 chevy k1500: Cowboy

Hmm...removing the diff mount, that is a good idea. Would have saved me some wrestling in the past.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer