Bosch IP disassembly - om603 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

filp · #1 12-12-2019, 11:40 AM

Hi,

I cannot find any drawings of Bosch m-pump commonly found on om603...
My o-ring under the L7 rack position sensor is bad and leaks diesel. I searched the forum and 10 years ago sixto and gsxr did not know the solution.

From what dieselpumpuk told me, I need to remove the governor, slide down the electric connector and replace the o-ring.

My question is: after locking the timing, does the governor removal (the whole rear part of the pump) affect calibration? Can it be done without sending it to Bosch afterwards?

Also no one seems to know the size of said o-ring as it does not come in the popular Bosch reseal kit.

Thanks!

jay_bob · #2 12-12-2019, 12:19 PM

I would shoot an email to Goran at Dieselmeken.se. If anyone knows the answers he does. Unless there is someone on this board who works in a Bosch shop. Website lists dieselmeken@msn.com as his email address.

Diseasel300 · #3 12-12-2019, 03:17 PM

The Rack Position Sensor is not connected in any way to the fuel gallery, so if you're leaking diesel fuel, it isn't coming from there, or if it is, you have way bigger problems. It can leak oil, but not diesel. Diesel leaks are usually from the hard lines or the delivery valve holder seals.

Removing the governor is relatively easy process, there's a clip that connects the governor arm to the fuel rack lever that must be removed, then you can more or less separate the governor from the IP body. Since you are not turning any of the adjustment screws in the governor assembly, there is no need to have the IP recalibrated after reassembly.

Pay *VERY* close attention to how it comes apart and make sure you have it reassembled correctly. Check, double check, triple check, verify multiple copies of photos from various angles. If you forget to hook up the rack lever or get something jammed in a bind, you have a runaway on your hands at first startup. Make sure everything moves freely before you close it up.

It goes without saying, but while you're that far into it, re-seal the entire IP while you have it out.

filp · #4 12-12-2019, 07:23 PM

I may practice in the junkyard first
I presume you're referring to the black protruding part from the governor seen at 2:19 here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UBBWOzsyho

jay_bob · #5 12-13-2019, 10:21 AM

When you go to start up your actual engine:

First take off the cross over pipe (between the turbo and the intake manifold).

Find a tight fitting cap, piece of plywood, something you can slap over that opening towards the manifold, so that if it does run away, you can safely stop it.

The only way you will be able to stop it if the fuel is out of control is to deprive it of air. You don't have much time so be ready with the stopper if things get out of hand on a restart.

In fact I would test this theory before attempting to take the IP apart, to make sure your method will indeed stop the engine.

rwd4evr · #6 09-12-2021, 02:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by filp

I may practice in the junkyard first
I presume you're referring to the black protruding part from the governor seen at 2:19 here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UBBWOzsyho

I know this is old but.....
Dont go to a damn pick a part junkyard and do"practice" surgery on a pump. Buy the damn thing. I came across a guy getting ready to do that **** on a car I was coming to an engine from. Don't ruin and leave parts. Total ******* move.

Sent from my SM-A115A using Tapatalk

nastala · #7 09-12-2021, 05:55 PM

https://archive.org/download/warchive/W-410_104.pdf Starting form the first page are some M-pump disassembly instructions. There are also more sections with different sets of instructions here: https://archive.org/details/warchive

filp · #8 09-13-2021, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwd4evr

I know this is old but.....
Dont go to a damn pick a part junkyard and do"practice" surgery on a pump. Buy the damn thing. I came across a guy getting ready to do that **** on a car I was coming to an engine from. Don't ruin and leave parts. Total ******* move.

Sent from my SM-A115A using Tapatalk

Yeah, don't ruin parts, especially if they get crushed regardless - lol
And that's exactly what happened. The car was gone so I never even practiced taking the IP out. Too big of a gamble on my daily driver.
Junkyards don't care if they have perfect seats or pump in the car. They also crushed a W115 with a nice, complete interior.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nastala

https://archive.org/download/warchive/W-410_104.pdf Starting form the first page are some M-pump disassembly instructions. There are also more sections with different sets of instructions here: https://archive.org/details/warchive

Thank you!

rwd4evr · #9 09-13-2021, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by filp

Yeah, don't ruin parts, especially if they get crushed regardless - lol
And that's exactly what happened. The car was gone so I never even practiced taking the IP out. Too big of a gamble on my daily driver.
Junkyards don't care if they have perfect seats or pump in the car. They also crushed a W115 with a nice, complete interior.

Thank you!

I'm saying if you put your hands on it, buy it. Don't go wreck **** and leave it because you're clueless. You want to have spare parts anyway. Injection pump at LKQ is like 150$ maybe.

Sent from my SM-A115A using Tapatalk