Can someone please explain how to properly adjust your at control cable or verify the control cable is adjusted correctly?

The Bowden cable should be just slack. Unsnap the connector and allow the linkage to settle to it's rest position. Then adjust the connector so that it's exactly aligned. Reattach. That's all there is to it.

If that old brittle plastic adjuster breaks, as it did on both my 300D's, you can cut a 1/4" copper tube to length, w/ a lengthwise slit to slip over the cable, and it will set the adjustment length.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

84-85 300sd is 1/2 ball short,Mercedes up date,does work,may apply to others?

The best setting is to have "zero" slack (or less than 1 mm) at the point that acceleration begins.


Not knowing what car you are talking about, I will assume w123.


pull on the adjustment cable pivot ball connection to find the fins the spot where "zero slack" occurs.



Then turn the accelerator linkage on the firewall until the arm that pushes the AT cable meets up with corresponding part - putting force onto the cable.


at this point, you should have an increasing RPM situation. Not simply a higher idle, but beyond that. there is a point in the injection pump when idle ends and acceleration begins. This is the spot you want the AT cable to begin moving with the accelerator linkage.

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What year, model and chassis? Below is for a W123

The adjustment method is in the Factor Service Manual and there is some small metal disk you need to do the adjustment. It also depends on what type of linkage setup you have.

Below is the spacer disc that comes with the superior shift kit.

Doing the adjustment properly while maybe a good basis to start off with does not mean you are not going to have to play with the adjustment till you get approximately what you want. I say approximately because you are likely dealing with a worn transmission.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel