You have the correct attitude ~ you're using this as a learning experience .

It will prolly run, many engines get stuck from just sitting, it's always a challenge I relish, bringing one back to life again .

Carry on ! .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Looking at the picture, rod journal # 1 was seriously overheated... I would pull the rod loose from that journal and I bet the rest of the motor will spin easy.

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Which picture are you looking at? And what do u see in it that shows the over heating?

Not questioning you, I'm just curious to know.

__________________

He's probably referring to the seventh picture in post number ten. It looks as though all/any oil which was on there has been "cooked" off leaving the metal bare.

That could also be because none of the penetrating fluid you applied dripped onto the rod/piston/bearing cap due to the angle of the assembly.

Pull the main bearing cap between #1 and #2 cylinders and see what you have.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Next update with pictures... Everyone loved a thread with pictures right!!! Lol


I was originally soaking the cylinders the poor man's way with whatever cleaning solution I had on hand at that moment.

Basically a mix of a quart of ATF, the rest of my can of wd40, and the rest of my can of on blaster. Which wasn't nearly enough to fill the cylinders all the way up, plus is wasn't the mix that was suggested by you guys.


So yesterday I flipped the engine over with the injectors put and drained it all out.

Next I made a gallon of suggested solution of 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. I also got creative and thru a bottle of seafoam in the mix as well.
I used a big 4oz syringe (the plastic baby medicine kind) and squirted it in thru the injector holes til they all filled up.


Although as I was filling, at i believe cylinder number 2, I'd squirt in thru the injector holes and the liquid would direcctly all leak out of the corresponding intake/exhaust port (not both, just not sure which one is intake and which is exhaust) also not sure if this is normal? Or does it have to do with the horrible condition of the ports or something?

I ended up filling up that chamber thru the port not the injector holes. Which also got my curious on all the other ports. I was able to top off the all the cylinders thru one one of it is two corresponding ports. The other ports would hold and not leak down. Again, not sure which one is which, but every other ports drank liquid, and the other held liquid.

I have the ports soaking too, hopefully to help with cleaning, they look too far gone but I'll give it go why not.

Is the leak through normal??

__________________

Yes, remember : the valves are open in some cylinders .

Give it a few days then begin working the crank gently, the initial movement may be very minute, DO NOT force it ! .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

The valves will always be open on some cylinder, there is no point in the rotation of the engine that all of the valves are closed at the same time. The leakage is normal, that just means #2 has the valves open. You should still get enough penetration to get down around the rings and piston.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

I wish I had taken more time on a seized 1965 Chrysler 273 engine I bought since I ruined several pistons by beating them out and those were special Hi-Po crowned pistons. The pistons in your OM617 cost >$500 ea, if you can even find them, so be gentle. I had tried a week of soaking w/ oil & such. As is, that engine has been sitting for years so I could have just left it soaking. Many internet suggestions, including coke (slightly acidic). If oils and kerosene don't work, last resort might be weak phosphoric acid which you buy as "rust remover". Even stronger is muriatic acid (HCl). A bit weaker is vinegar. Supposedly they will just attack the rust and not harm bare steel. Watch youtubes of rust removal to get an idea and make sure they won't hurt the aluminum pistons.

You can replace the cylinder sleeves (I paid $11 ea), but not the pistons. One does not overbore the cylinders (like in a Chevy) since there are only the original-size pistons, and you will need to re-use yours and/or buy used ones, unless you luck into finding new ones. BTW, you will read people hung up about the #1 piston being a slightly different size. It seems that comes from a shop manual which says to use the largest (or smallest?) measured one in a set it the #1 cylinder. Probably due to that cylinder running perhaps a little cooler. Sounds like a "finicky German" thing.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

So is swapping out the piston sleeves a job one could do themselves?

Or is this something and machine shop usually does?

Keep in mind that I've NEVER done anything like this before, I'm sure y'all have already read between the lines and figured that out by now.

But I do have the time, patience, and willingness to learn and do it. But I believe I recall reading that even the most high ranking peachparts members have the block sent out for new sleeves.


Secondly, has anyone used the product Ospho or Osfo, something like that. We used to use it to clean up rusty parts when I worked my summers in Alaska at salmon processing plants.

It's a green liquid that you soak rusty parts in and it eats away at rust. From what I remember, it worked very good, but I believe it would work "too good" for this application is for it completely ate the rust away leaving pitting wherever the rust was.

__________________

No ;

You can't change cylinder liners at home .

Just carry on, learn and have some fun with it, kn the end you can sell off the parts if it's too far gone to save .

These cars are loosing interest so parts are getting cheaper depending on what parts....

I've turned down several free good used engines .

Don't sweat not knowing what you're doing here, no one is born with a wrench in their hands.

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I was under the impression I could only get used pistons for the om617. Although, I can easily find things as followed and similar on Google.


https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/6160306417.htm?pn=616-030-64-17-INT&gclid=CjwKCAiAvonyBRB7EiwAadauqafl2wZAGkAkIPsw89qnXy-2ZcdUb1ZbLmJCQfdMGCMF_Fr46BRgsBoCSfAQAvD_BwE


Are these the correct part? Would they work? I'm considering switching gears and moving on with this route along with new cylinder sleeves, and the rebuilt head I have already.


Am I missing something here?

__________________

I bought five new Mahle (IIRC) standard pistons and re sleeved the block in my 300CD .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

When you injected some fluid in and it came right back out. The valve port. That piston was at top dead center. Or very close. Just put less in that cylinder.

The second thing is it takes some time to work. Not always just a day or two.

I located on request a early 50s Chrysler 6 cylinder engine for a person. Some years ago. It soaked for over a month before he got it free. It did run again I heard. Although I have no ideal of how good. As I never saw him again.

No indication or other if you will be successful grasshopper. Yet you have to give it both time and periodic replentishment of some fluid. Perhaps an ounce at times. Weeks of soaking would not be uncommon.

Ya I'm at a week and a half now. I tried it last weekend but still wouldn't budge. I imagine I'm gonna wait a month.


Will it ever get to a point where I can turn the crankshaft counter clockwise, without just loosening the bolt?

If like to be able to rock back and forth like what vwnate suggested.

But this last weekend when I tried it for a few mins I tried turning the engine backwards and thought I was actually getting it to turn for a second but after one more tug on the cheater bar I realized I was just loosening the bolt.

When it's more freed up and easier to turn the engine will this be possible to spin in backwards? Or will that bolt always loosen?

I also understand you have to be very careful when turning a engine backwards because you might get some slack and bind in the timing chain

__________________

It's just Nate......

If you loosened the pulley bolt, you're forcing it too hard and can jamb the engine as it's trying to come free .

*gentle* here is the watchword .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better