My 1985 California 300CD is apart for a turbo rebuild (did not need it but now I know) and I was thinking about the dealer installed trap oxidizer from the recall program plugging up. It looks like there is a honeycomb trap inside it just like a catalytic converter.

1. Does anybody have experience knocking the honeycomb out? Is it easy to do, and were you able to get enough of it out that little pieces did not rattle around inside later down the road?
2. There is a hole on one end of the trap that goes to the EGR valve. Is there something made that can plug this hole for an EGR delete? My EGR computer is kaput so I am deleting the EGR.

You could just remove the oxidizer and weld in a pipe - others have done this, I've heard. Since your state exempts diesels built before 97 from smog test, you should be ok. And frankly since the egr is out, you're already out of compliance...

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DS
2010 CL550 - Heaven help me but it's beautiful
87 300D a labor of love
11 GLK 350 So far, so good
08 E350 4matic, Love it.
99 E320 too rusted, sold
87 260E Donated to Newgate School
www.Newgateschool.org - check it out.
12 Ford Escape, sold, forgotten
87 300D, sold, what a mistake
06 Passat 2.0T, PITA, sold

Las Vegas NV

There is a so called Test Pipe that you can buy from one of or members or used to show up on eBay to replace it.


I believe there was a program to fix the Trap Oxidizer and fix the Turbo if the trap oxidizer caused the turbo problem. But, someone more knowledgeable on that will have to chime in.
There is some way to look at the out side of the trap ox and tell if the dealer had already done the fix to it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

1. The dealer definitely did the fix
2. I bought the replacement pipe, but it does not fit

Hence, I am looking to use what came with the car. Maybe the best option is to just put in what I have and find nother trapoxidizer to experiment with.

Turbo will spool late with a big open space in front of it. Knowledge from experience.

Not fitting should have had the pipe going back to the seller. But, of course your choice on that.
Perhaps a Muffler shop can tweek the pipe and get it to work OK.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Did you buy the "test pipe" from Rollguy here? I am sure he would take care of the problem if you complain. I am sure he uses a fixture when welding those pipes, perhaps an actual 1985 CA engine since he lives in SoCal. You have the later part (shiny outside, not cast-iron), which is a catalytic converter, though M-B terms it different (forgot). I wouldn't feel bad about breaking out the catalyst since unlikely it is still good today and you can't buy new ones. Even the catalyst in my 2002 Chrysler went bad @ 220K miles (failed emissions, honeycomb looked fine and white, new one passed emissions). But, the pipe is nicer since gives more room to work your hands in.

If you go the other way and install a federal intake & exhaust, your turbo inlet will be ~1.5" lower so will need to cut the outlet pipe of your frame-mounted air cleaner and fit a silicone inlet tube (as I did). Since my used engine was older, it had the air-cleaner oil drain so I ran the PCV oil drain to it. For some reason, M-B runs that oil drain right into the turbo inlet which seems a great way to gunk the fan blade, plus they weren't nice enough to provide a drain stub on the upper oil pan. Might be better to run it to a catch-can (ebay) as many do for custom turbo's.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

The problem with braking out the catalyst is making sure you get the whole thing out. If any bits come loose in there, you know where they are going to end up. Access is not easy with one end having a 90 degree bend. If I had two of them I would experiment with one. I still have to figure out how to plug the EGR hole.

On my simply disconnecting the Vacuum to the EGR keeps it closed all of the time thus blocking the hole which is the easiest way to go.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel