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  #16  
Old 04-03-2020, 08:33 PM
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Great thread. Thanks for posting. Are you cutting the metal out with a regular cut off grinder? And did you cut the hole and then trace the outline of the hole onto the new metal and cut the new piece to fit that way? Thanks.

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  #17  
Old 04-03-2020, 08:34 PM
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Would it have been easier to just cut out the entire panel and put the new one in? More welding, less fabrication perhaps?
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  #18  
Old 04-03-2020, 08:36 PM
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Exclamation Cutting Sheet Metal

Overlay the new patch piece first and mark where the cuts need to be, use an electric cutting tool and USE GOGGLES OR A FULL MASK ! . .

I didn't *just*once* and now my right eye has steel chips in it that make focusing hard...

MEASURE THRICE ! . cut only once or you'll be learning how to butt weld .
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  #19  
Old 04-03-2020, 10:49 PM
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Oh I was planning to butt weld everything. I have not looked at how the original rocker panels are attached yet, though.

Thanks for the reminder about Goggles.

The inside of auto glass is laminated with plastic film to reduce injury to occupants. That is why the sparks from grinding can melt it.
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  #20  
Old 04-03-2020, 11:18 PM
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Actually safety glass is two layers of glass with plastic in the middle.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #21  
Old 04-04-2020, 12:33 PM
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Post Laminated Safety Glass

Only the windshield is laminated, all the rest are tempered and will break into pebbles .

No plastic coating .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #22  
Old 04-04-2020, 01:11 PM
JB3 JB3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
So then ;

The metal is good quality ? .
Its a half to a 3rd the thickness of the original sheet metal, but welds decently. It does tend to rust extremely quickly, so needs to be well painted.

Some of the stampings are quite worn, body curves might be sloppy and need considerable work to really look good. For the floor pans its great

The great thing is that patch panels actually are available for these old cars at a good price
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  #23  
Old 04-04-2020, 01:28 PM
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Post Patch Panels

Thanx for the up date .

There are a couple of U.S.A. patch panel manufacturers left, I don't know their names, sorry .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

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  #24  
Old 04-04-2020, 04:02 PM
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Yes and the windshield has plastic on the inside to protect your face.

I cannot see little metal flecks from a grinder embedding themselves in regular tempered glass. Been wrong before, though.
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  #25  
Old 04-04-2020, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
Thanx for the up date .

There are a couple of U.S.A. patch panel manufacturers left, I don't know their names, sorry .
My understanding is everyone selling anything for 123s and 126s are selling klokkerholm panels under a dozen different names and prices. They seem to be the world source for old mercedes.
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  #26  
Old 04-04-2020, 10:00 PM
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Question Plastic Coated Windshield

O.k., I'm old so maybe things have changed, please tell me what vehicle has this inside plastic coating because no Mercedes up to 1997 has it .

-Nate

Quote:
Originally Posted by atypicalguy View Post
Yes and the windshield has plastic on the inside to protect your face.
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  #27  
Old 04-06-2020, 02:49 PM
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This thread brings back memories of my 300D rust repair. My car was worse, but in end it was a worthwhile project. As this one will be.
Once the floors are fixed, keep looking! Hood hinge pockets, frame rails front and back, sunroof drains, more that I have forgotten. For what it's worth, check pics in bodywork or restoration subforums. Should be pics still there.

Here is the link: Restoration of my 85 300D

Shop's pictures here: http://www.lastchanceautorestore.com/gallery_completed/gallery.php?vid=1985_Mercedes_300D
Mine in original thread.

Last edited by Graham; 04-06-2020 at 04:30 PM.
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  #28  
Old 04-06-2020, 04:21 PM
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A huge undertaking, well done!

In your first post you mention water in the rear foot-well. While the rust from the battery tray in your case can definitely be a cause, keep in mind that on the W123 with no rust issues this can still happen with the cause being a bad windshield seal.
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  #29  
Old 04-07-2020, 09:48 PM
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UPDATE

So, I'm in stay at home mode. I could violate the governor's order, but I'm gonna stay put. The garage I'm renting is attached to someone's house and his kids are in and out all the time.

Someone asked a bit ago about my welding setup. I snapped these pictures last time I was at the garage.





I bought this rig off a guy on Craigslist about five years ago. The welder wouldn't penetrate anything and I ended up replacing the rectifier. Everything has worked perfectly after that.

I run 75/25 Argon/C02 mix out of that little bottle in the back.

I've been using .030 wire, but have been wanting to go to .027.
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I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #30  
Old 04-08-2020, 11:29 AM
JSR JSR is offline
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Lots of info, thank you, great work!

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