Hi all -- So I drive 30 miles to Costco yesterday and load all my provisions in the car, start it and .....no reverse gear! No prior warning....nothing. Get out, push car back out of parking space and then drive home.

What are my options here? Is there a kit that addresses this problem or am I looking at a tranny transplant? OK to drive car using foraward gears without risk of damage?

The vehicle has 225k miles and runs well otherwise. I'm second owner and have not done any tranny work except fluid/filter changes 2 times from 140k till now. ATF level looks good as does color.

-- Chris

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-- Chris

'95 E300, 216k miles, Silver Surfer
'05 E320 CDI, 138k miles
'07 S550 4matic, 69k miles

Gone but not forgotten:

'76 300D, 350k miles?, SOLD in 1995
'75 240D, 300k miles, SOLD in 1991

Usually the reverse fails because of a failed B3 seal or worn B3 clutches but that is gradual.


But if it's without warning then it could also be valve body/governor (Safety feature in most automatics to not engage reverse when a car is moving although I don't know if this transmission has it and I'm not going to test if that's the case)

Maybe the shifter linkage is sloppy?

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1993 e300
1995 e320
1994 e320
2006 s500 4matic
2004 Jeep wj overland
2001 Ducati 748
2004 Honda shadow aero

Linkage was very sloppy and was repaired shortly after I bought the vehicle at 140k over 9 years ago. How would I test to see if it is a valve body governor?

When I started the car over the winter, and moved it a bit to keep tires from getting a flat spot, it seems sluggish going back and forth in driveway. I thought it might be a vacuum issue as it need time to build up.

__________________
-- Chris

'95 E300, 216k miles, Silver Surfer
'05 E320 CDI, 138k miles
'07 S550 4matic, 69k miles

Gone but not forgotten:

'76 300D, 350k miles?, SOLD in 1995
'75 240D, 300k miles, SOLD in 1991

Just looked at the 722.4 rebuild manual and it says that if Park works then you have no sticking governor problem when stopped.


So if your park position works then disregard my comment about the governor.


If it's been happening gradually (sluggish/slipping reverse) then it's most likely the B3 seal/clutches (complete teardown)


Unless someone on here knows if there's something that can be checked on the valvebody then I think it's rebuild time ($2200 including removal/install where I live. They don't have to rebuild the torque converter due to no lockup)

May worth a look.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

Hmmmm.....not sure it is worth the expense. Don't these trannies last longer then 225k?

Good call. I think these valves are on the filter side of the valvebody. Can probably get to them without removing the valvebody.



25 years and 225k miles is good enough for a transmission in my opinion.


If the body isn't rusted out and the engine is in good shape then I think it's worth the potential expense.


But first I would follow the manual on post #6 before making any rash decisions

Probably not one of those, no. That transmission doesn't seem to be one of the more durable ones, I see lots of 95 E300s for sale with dead transmissions, I passed on buying the only one I went to look at because it had issues (that of course were not mentioned in the ad lol).

Where does one get the parts for the valve body?

__________________
-- Chris

'95 E300, 216k miles, Silver Surfer
'05 E320 CDI, 138k miles
'07 S550 4matic, 69k miles

Gone but not forgotten:

'76 300D, 350k miles?, SOLD in 1995
'75 240D, 300k miles, SOLD in 1991

The dealer sold them a few years ago they were very reasonable. Also some shift improvement kits are also available from third parties for under $100 just can't recall the names right now.

__________________
92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

o-ring kit part number: 1262700635


vaico brand available on amazon/ebay for about $80

I have had good luck with K&W Trans-X transmission additive when I've had transmission shifting issues plus once with a 99 suburban's power steering pump that was squealing and leaking fluid profusely.

On two transmissions the shifting problems went away and never returned during a few years of subsequent ownership. Ford F350 and 91 Range Rover. I will typically add a partial bottle with any transmission fluid change for my older vehicles even if they are not giving trouble.

The power steering pump quit squealing immediately and quit leaking totally a couple of days later. Put at least 20,000 more miles on it before I sold it and it was still noise and leak free.

Doesn't cost much to try it. Could save a lot of money if it works. I'd change the filter, fluid including torque converter, add the Trans-X and transmission fluid.

I've wanted to try Swepco's transmission fluid but haven't driven to Ft Worth to pick up a few gallons ( minimum order ) from the manufacturer's rep.

Users talk about the durability, better shifting, and long term cleaning properties.
a couple of local links:
Synthetic Or Conventional Atf??

https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&LastVisited_input=W124&make=POR&description=swepco

Hi -- Thanks all for advise.

Re: valve body, should I look into actually swapping out the entire valve body with a rebuilt one?

RE: valve body, should I look into actually swapping out the entire valve body with a rebuilt one?

Anybody have experience swapping these out and regaining reverse gear and /or better shifting?

__________________
-- Chris

'95 E300, 216k miles, Silver Surfer
'05 E320 CDI, 138k miles
'07 S550 4matic, 69k miles

Gone but not forgotten:

'76 300D, 350k miles?, SOLD in 1995
'75 240D, 300k miles, SOLD in 1991