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#16
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Reality Check
Prolly a goodly bit more than $5 but well worth some effort .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#17
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The fact that it ran is a good sign. I'd follow the other advice on here, then run it a little bit again, and re-check the compression numbers. You just might have a runner.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#18
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Just got a radiator hooked up to this engine I am trying to salvage and loosen up to possibly swap into my 85 300SD. Question is I think I just want to put water in but if I do is it fairly easy to drain the block so it does not crack if I do not get it swapped in? Can you blow the coolant passages outwith air or is there a screw in plug to totally drain the block on the 617 motor? I probably will do a citrus flush on the motor if I do decide to swap it in and put a block heater in as it currently has none. I have heard they can be a challenge to install and people have cracked blocks trying but I guess with engine out patience and heat can be done.
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#19
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Put anti freeze in it so you don't have to remember months later when it freezes.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#20
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R & R'ing a block drain shouldn't be that bad. If it was the block heater adapter fitting, that is a very different story. If the block plug is stuck remove a freeze plug to drain the block.
Good luck!!!
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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#21
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Block Draining
In the middle right side of the cylinder block is a 17MM ATF plug, use a 6 point socket to remove it, this will drain the block .
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#22
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Does this engine have potential or move on
Its a bear to get to that plug on my 617. Mine was a 19mm. I used a ratchet wrench.
On my 123 is a small, blue plastic screw plug under the drivers side of the radiator. Easy to get to right behind the bumper. Will only drain the radiator completely. Still have to drain the block. |
#23
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Quote:
While it is wise to avoid such engines if you don't know their history (how the WVO was run) as is the case with the OP, the number of well documented cases of engines run without issues into the 6 digits puts the lie to those WVO put downs.
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'83 SD, 2x '85 SD You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts. |
#24
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What people burn for fuel in their engines is their choice. It is their vehicle.
At he same time the vast majority during the craze. That burnt used vegetable oils. Took these engines and or injector pumps into pretty terminal conditions. The percentage that did all the work to use it properly I suspect where the exception. Not the general rule unfortunately. |
#25
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If it start and ran good then just run it for a while and don't worry about it. I have had diesels sitting around for 10+ years that have fired right up. I have had others that sat around the same amount of time that would would not start on their own. Tow started them the first time and afterwards they would start and run just fine on their own.
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#26
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Thanks for the replies as now I have many options to get my daily driver back on the road again as I just purchased another 85 300 SD today that I rate about about a 6 with 10 being perfect. It has 178,000 on motor good power and hardly no cancer will probably pick it up tomorrow.
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