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  #1  
Old 05-10-2020, 07:33 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 24
OM617 questions

Did a little bit of work on my 1980 W116 300SD this weekend.
Deleted EGR and temporarily ran alternative intake until I decide if I want to buy another T-bracket.

When I replaced fuel filters, I ended up with a leak at filter housing. Even with new washer.
I want to update to the later filter housing anyway, so now is a good time.
Does anyone have a good one they would like to sell?

Bought a new cigar hose, turned out to be too short. I guess there's a long and short version. Ran regular fuel hose temporarily.

Also noticed I have oil leaking up through a valve cover stud. I replaced the gasket when I did valve adjustment a couple weeks ago. Is there supposed to be any type of seal or washer under those nuts?

I'm missing a hood latch striker/buffer. If anyone has a good one laying around I'll take it.

Pics here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7PuUv8ummr4x1nZL7

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  #2  
Old 05-10-2020, 08:19 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 82
the VC gasket is between the oil and fastener so any leakage with a new gasket is either because it is not tightened sufficiently or the cover hole area has gotten tweaked from over tightening and is making contact with the head before the gasket is compressed. OR the gasket fell out of position as the cover was put in place.

-dan
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  #3  
Old 05-10-2020, 10:07 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 1,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inshan View Post
Did a little bit of work on my 1980 W116 300SD this weekend.
Deleted EGR and temporarily ran alternative intake until I decide if I want to buy another T-bracket.

When I replaced fuel filters, I ended up with a leak at filter housing. Even with new washer.
I want to update to the later filter housing anyway, so now is a good time.
Does anyone have a good one they would like to sell?

Bought a new cigar hose, turned out to be too short. I guess there's a long and short version. Ran regular fuel hose temporarily.

Also noticed I have oil leaking up through a valve cover stud. I replaced the gasket when I did valve adjustment a couple weeks ago. Is there supposed to be any type of seal or washer under those nuts?

I'm missing a hood latch striker/buffer. If anyone has a good one laying around I'll take it.

Pics here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7PuUv8ummr4x1nZL7
I have 3 of the later "02" fuel filter heads and I include the 2 o-rings (in brown FMK) that hold up to biodiesel.
Send me a PM.

The sealing surfaces of the fuel filter heads have been hand lapped.
These fuel filter heads are from the last 3 of the 5 CAT 1R-705 Fuel Filter Upgrade Kits.
No need to buy the kit if you just need the fuel filter head.

FS - CAT 1R-7050 Fuel Filter Upgrade Kits for OM61X


There should be a thin wave washer under each of the 4 valve cover nuts.
I should have some spares.

I also have some extras of the hood latch striker glides and I think some of the adjustable hood rubber stops.
__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022
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  #4  
Old 05-10-2020, 10:54 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 24
Thanks Dan and Alec. I'm subscribed to both of you guys informative threads.
Alec, will PM you.
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  #5  
Old 05-12-2020, 10:36 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
Posts: 2,530
Another OM617 cam cover tip: (I detailed this in my build log on here)


When I got Mutt the Race Truck to the track the first time I had a fair amount of oil leaking from the cover even with a new gasket. After some measurement I found that it's fairly common for the cam covers to warp a bit after all these years. The fix is to flatten the cam cover:


1) You'll need something that's dead flat. I use my table saw table which is an old Craftsman w/cast iron table. If you don't have anything else you can get a sheet of 1/4" thick glass.


2) Clean the cover and set it head side down on the flat surface. Measure the gap between the cover and the flat with a feeler gage. I'm guessing that more than 0.025" is probably the limit but I could feel mine rock on the flat and took that as my limit.


3) Assuming you find a warpage, stick 80 grit straight line sander paper down on your surface. This is available at Advance and most other auto parts stores. It has a strong adhesive on the back and is easily stuck to your flat surface. If your cover is significantly warped you might want to start with 36 grit then change to 80 when you have most of the warp fixed.


4) Work the cam cover in a figure 8 pattern on the sandpaper. I found that I could see a bit of the green from the paper on the areas where the sandpaper was working on the cover and no green where there was not yet any contact. You'll need to blow off the paper from time to time or alternatively you can brush it off. I had to change paper several times.


5) When you get the cover flat enough that no more than a 0.005 feeler gage will fit anywhere under the cover you're done.



6) Clean the cover REALLY WELL finishing with soap and water to remove all of the sanding grit and aluminum bits, reinstall, and drive! I did mine several years ago and it's still tight and dry although mine only sees race track duty (limited miles but very high stress).




Disclaimer: This technique worked for me and probably will work for you but no guarantees made. The measurements given are what I used but they were just devised from my experience and are not (as far as I know) Mercedes limits.


Rock On!
Dan
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  #6  
Old 05-13-2020, 04:11 PM
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Posts: 24
THanks Dan, I suspect this might be an issue.
I have another cover that I got for the purpose of either polishing up, or powder coating. I'll get that one nice and flat and refinished, then install it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Stokes View Post
Another OM617 cam cover tip: (I detailed this in my build log on here)


When I got Mutt the Race Truck to the track the first time I had a fair amount of oil leaking from the cover even with a new gasket. After some measurement I found that it's fairly common for the cam covers to warp a bit after all these years. The fix is to flatten the cam cover:


Rock On!
Dan
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2020, 12:11 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC by the Atlantic ocean
Posts: 2,530
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inshan View Post
THanks Dan, I suspect this might be an issue.
I have another cover that I got for the purpose of either polishing up, or powder coating. I'll get that one nice and flat and refinished, then install it.



I forgot to mention that I used 4 sheets of straight line paper laid out __ __ end to end and 2 rows wide so there's more than enough length and width so that the cover is always on the paper while you work it - but you probably figured that out.


Dan
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  #8  
Old 05-14-2020, 01:06 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 24
Yes, I figured to get a proper figure 8 path would need a broad swath.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
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  #9  
Old 05-14-2020, 01:45 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 1,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inshan View Post
THanks Dan, I suspect this might be an issue.
I have another cover that I got for the purpose of either polishing up, or powder coating. I'll get that one nice and flat and refinished, then install it.
IIRC the 1980 W116 300SD valvecover has a non-replaceable plastic crankcase vapor channel with a diaphragm that dries out.
Powder coating may not be advisable for that design.

For your car, I'd recommend a 1978 or 1979 W116 300SD valvecover that has a removable metal crankcase vapor channel (if you plan to powder coat the valvecover).
__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022
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  #10  
Old 05-14-2020, 02:40 PM
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Posts: 24
Good to know Alec, I will look into that. Thanks!

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