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#1
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Replaced Rotors Today
Hi All,
I replaced my rear rotors today and have noticed with the replacement ones, there is a slight grinding noise when I turn right. I did not notice this before. The braking is just fine with no noise. Is this something that will level out over time? Thanks, Dkr. |
#2
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It should not grind.
__________________
Jim |
#3
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Engatwork - what are you thinking? Are the rotors too thick and maybe sourced for the wrong vehicle?
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#4
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So, I spent some more time on this. I pulled off each wheel after driving about 15 miles. They both turn freely and the caliper/brake hardware is all attached correctly. I can't see anything visually wrong.
Generally, I drive with the sunroof open or windows up. For some reason, I decided to do a test drive with the windows down. If I drive with the windows up or sunroof open, I can't hear the grinding noise. So, maybe it was there before??? I also noticed when I did this job that both the boots on my CV axles are ripped. I had them rebooted by a pro shop a little more than 50K miles ago. It looks like somebody knifed them. I'll post some pics in a while. I wonder if this is the issue. I can only hear the grinding at low speeds turning right with the windows open. Dkr. |
#5
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The mention in the OP was replaced rotors. I am going to ask a somewhat silly question. Did you also change pads at the same time? The engineer is correct.
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#6
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No, the pads don't need to be replaced yet.
Dkr. |
#7
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Seems strange to not replace rotors and pads together, especially given the cost. The old pads now have some set of surface features that are consistent with the old rotors, and there's probably irregular contact. Besides that, on these old cars, pistons are likely to be somewhat corroded and seals not that great. So it is very likely that now with the thicker, newer rotors, the pistons cant retract far enough, and so you have more rubbing. Check the rotor and wheels for heat - I suspect one may be hot.
Something isnt right. After the first bedding in, which you wont be able to do properly because the old pads wont make proper contact, there should be no noise save for a very slight, and barely audible unless your ear is at the wheel with the car off, super-light drag of the pad on the rotor.
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#8
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Quote:
The pads were replaced not too long ago. I was just too lazy to replace the rotors as well. Dkr. |
#9
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Is the end play on the rear hubs within spec?
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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Well, it appears after some more driving today, the noise appears to be gone. I'll be driving a lot tomorrow so I will try to see if it re-appears.
Dkr. |
#11
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X2, check the wheel bearings. If there's play, the rotor can move relative to the pads and they might brush each other when cornering.
__________________
Event Video: Cars & Coffee 2023, Simi Valley CA: https://youtu.be/CFfY9CPVuEs URO Parts online catalog: https://apaindustries.com/catalog |
#12
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Your parking brakes were dragging that's happened to me a few times 20 miles of driver ng will silence them.
__________________
92 e300d2.5t 01 e320 05 cdi 85 chev c10 |
#13
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Brake pads are always supposed to be replaced with the rotors. If the pads are unevenly worn then you can set an incorrect wear pattern into the brand new rotors....
Pads are so cheap.....why.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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