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  #31  
Old 07-17-2020, 03:14 PM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
No need for metric hose or fittings. Everything needed is either #6-#12 (6,8,10,12). All this is standard A/C stuff. Also, as long as you are welding on fittings, weld on a male fitting on the low side hard pipe instead of a barb. That way the hose will have a fitting on both ends, and can be easily replaced without cutting off the sleeve to replace the hose. I do it this way on all the Sanden retrofits I do.....Rich

I'm not set up to weld here, so if I make the hoses myself I'll just be using beadlock fittings, essentially making duplicates of the stock hoses with new beadlock fittings and new hose. I know I can use non-metric hose, but wouldn't I still need metric threads on the fittings?

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  #32  
Old 07-17-2020, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300TD1982 View Post
I'm not set up to weld here, so if I make the hoses myself I'll just be using beadlock fittings, essentially making duplicates of the stock hoses with new beadlock fittings and new hose. I know I can use non-metric hose, but wouldn't I still need metric threads on the fittings?
Since the entire A/C system in these cars was made for the American market, all of the fittings are the same as what we use here in the US. All of the factory hose assemblies use a beadlock fitting, but once you grind off the old sleeve, you can't just crimp on a new hose and sleeve. The old barb needs to be cut off, and a new hose barb welded on. Anywhere there is a screwed on Oring fitting, you can use new beadlock fittings. At least five of the connections are crimped on from the factory, so those you will need to weld on new barbs, or male thread fittings (like the photo above).
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  #33  
Old 07-17-2020, 03:36 PM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Since the entire A/C system in these cars was made for the American market, all of the fittings are the same as what we use here in the US. All of the factory hose assemblies use a beadlock fitting, but once you grind off the old sleeve, you can't just crimp on a new hose and sleeve. The old barb needs to be cut off, and a new hose barb welded on. Anywhere there is a screwed on Oring fitting, you can use new beadlock fittings. At least five of the connections are crimped on from the factory, so those you will need to weld on new barbs, or male thread fittings (like the photo above).

Fascinating! I assumed it was metric all over. Thanks so much for the info.



Looks like I'll be having a shop do it after all. I'll definitely see about having male thread fittings welded on to the fittings you mentioned.
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  #34  
Old 07-17-2020, 04:46 PM
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One option: You could have the fittings welded on, and make the hoses yourself with the Mastercool crimper. Or: send the hose assemblies to me (minus the rubber parts) and I will make the hoses. I just scrapped several hose assemblies, otherwise I would have one to rebuild so you would not have to send one. I am sure I can do it cheaper than your local shop. Get an estimate and let me know. The only hoses that do not need to be replaced are the small one going into the cabin from the drier, and the one from the drier to the condenser. If you are changing the condenser to parallel flow, the hoses will be different than factory. Also, I have a friend that travels back and forth from Oregon to So. Cal. Often. He could ferry the parts on his next trip.
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  #35  
Old 07-17-2020, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
I know they exist! When the pulley sheared off on my 240D, it was because the compressor seized up. So I got to do a whole new system, and the shop that did it, sourced the dryer. The one they got has no glass.
I suspect some modern ones have no glass because it’s cheaper to make and unnecessary as I understand it, for 134.

Of course my car runs r-12, and many years later now it’s no worse for not having it. It blows cold without any major concerns from me. But I always do wish it was there!
Photo with the masking on the sight glass
Attached Thumbnails
W123 300TD (1982) Air Conditioning rebuild advice-image.jpg  

Last edited by ROLLGUY; 07-17-2020 at 05:09 PM.
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  #36  
Old 07-17-2020, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
I know they exist! When the pulley sheared off on my 240D, it was because the compressor seized up. So I got to do a whole new system, and the shop that did it, sourced the dryer. The one they got has no glass.
I suspect some modern ones have no glass because it’s cheaper to make and unnecessary as I understand it, for 134.

Of course my car runs r-12, and many years later now it’s no worse for not having it. It blows cold without any major concerns from me. But I always do wish it was there!
Photo of the sight glass with masking removed:
Attached Thumbnails
W123 300TD (1982) Air Conditioning rebuild advice-image.jpg  
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  #37  
Old 07-18-2020, 01:18 AM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
One option: You could have the fittings welded on, and make the hoses yourself with the Mastercool crimper. Or: send the hose assemblies to me (minus the rubber parts) and I will make the hoses. I just scrapped several hose assemblies, otherwise I would have one to rebuild so you would not have to send one. I am sure I can do it cheaper than your local shop. Get an estimate and let me know. The only hoses that do not need to be replaced are the small one going into the cabin from the drier, and the one from the drier to the condenser. If you are changing the condenser to parallel flow, the hoses will be different than factory. Also, I have a friend that travels back and forth from Oregon to So. Cal. Often. He could ferry the parts on his next trip.

When I looked at the exploded view for my car's AC system I couldn't figure out why some of the pipes and hoses were still showed joined. Now I know that those were crimped at the factory. Seems like a weird design decision, but what do I know? The "local" shop is a 6 hour round trip, so I'll probably take you up on the repair offer. The suction hose that attaches to the expansion valve was removed, but I have a used one in the mail. I'll PM you to talk about details. Thanks!
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  #38  
Old 07-18-2020, 01:30 AM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
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I think I found all 5 factory-crimped locations on my ac layout.
Attached Thumbnails
W123 300TD (1982) Air Conditioning rebuild advice-img_20200717_222811.jpg  
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  #39  
Old 07-19-2020, 11:00 AM
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If this was my car, I would forego the short hose going from behind the alternator to the condenser, and just go directly from the R4 manifold to the condenser. You would then only need three fittings welded, (1)@ expansion valve, (2) @ R4 manifold (lower), (3) @ low side pipe. Of course you would need to clamp the hose to the lower core support in at least two places.
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  #40  
Old 07-19-2020, 12:48 PM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
If this was my car, I would forego the short hose going from behind the alternator to the condenser, and just go directly from the R4 manifold to the condenser. You would then only need three fittings welded, (1)@ expansion valve, (2) @ R4 manifold (lower), (3) @ low side pipe. Of course you would need to clamp the hose to the lower core support in at least two places.

Sounds like a good idea, thanks!
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  #41  
Old 07-19-2020, 08:29 PM
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I'd forgo the R4 compressor, I have a low mileage 79 300d, I first resealed the original compressor and it leaked around the can. I then bought a rebuilt R4 and it leaks a small amount of oil on an off also from around the can. I charged with Enviorsafe both times and the high side pressure does not exceed 215psi. It cools well but the oil leak is a problem waiting to happen. I'm going to convert to a Sanden compressor.

Tim
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  #42  
Old 07-20-2020, 03:04 AM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
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Originally Posted by tmessenger View Post
I'd forgo the R4 compressor [...] I'm going to convert to a Sanden compressor.

Tim

I'm nearly certain that I'm going to convert to a Sanden! Thanks for the advice.
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  #43  
Old 07-22-2020, 03:01 PM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
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I'm all in now on doing this right. New Sanden compressor has been ordered. New 16x21" parallel flow condenser has been ordered. New hoses will be ordered from forum member Rollguy, as well as a mounting bracket for the compressor and a dual-relay upgrade for the fan. Used aux fan has been ordered, as has a new receiver/dryer and an o-ring kit. Installed another climate control unit as the "off" button broke on the old one. Still have to order a belt.


I appreciate all the information and advice that I have gotten!
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  #44  
Old 07-24-2020, 04:15 PM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
Posts: 204
Best way to flush evaporator?

My shop offered to do the flush but I figure I should look into doing it myself. The entire AC system is being replaced except for the evaporator and the line from the dryer to the evaporator.

Should flush it from inside the car, where the expansion valve goes? Or flush through the line from the dryer? Any suggestions on which brand of flush to use, and how much to use? And I just blow it out with shop air when I'm done? Any tips, tricks, cautions or other info would be appreciated.
Thanks!
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  #45  
Old 07-24-2020, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300TD1982 View Post
My shop offered to do the flush but I figure I should look into doing it myself. The entire AC system is being replaced except for the evaporator and the line from the dryer to the evaporator.

Should flush it from inside the car, where the expansion valve goes? Or flush through the line from the dryer? Any suggestions on which brand of flush to use, and how much to use? And I just blow it out with shop air when I'm done? Any tips, tricks, cautions or other info would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I took an old TXV and drilled a hole in the flap inside (look inside and you will know what I am talking about) so flush solvent can go through unimpeded, and connected hoses long enough to keep the solvent and oil outside the interior of the car. You can use the A/C flush solvent available at most auto parts stores. The other way, is to do the same with your old TXV, and hook the two hoses back up. You can then flush with the hoses being inside the engine bay. After injecting some solvent, blow through dry shop air (dry gas is preferred) till the solvent/oil runs clear. I usually flush both ways. Be sure to put a rag over the top of your catch container, as the solvent/oil vapor goes EVERYWHERE! Once the evap is clean and dried out, you can install the new TXV. If it will be a while before the rest of the system is installed, cap or plug all the openings to keep moisture out. After all the hoses and other equipment is installed, uncap and hook up the drier. It should now be ready for a pressure test. If the pressure test shows no leaks, a deep vacuum and charge will complete the job. With the Sanden and PF condenser, it takes about 20-26 ounces of R134a.....Rich

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