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  #16  
Old 06-29-2020, 12:49 PM
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ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,229
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
O.K. then ;

I just came home from a week long road trip to Nevada in my 1982 240D with it's Rich SANDEN and parallel flow condenser modification , I never had to turn the AC off even on the hills it didn't want to pull 4th gear in (fully loaded, 4 people and trunk stuffed full) , I merely waited until the engine began to labor and down shifted into 3rd gear and cruised up the hill and over the pass easily, the engine never exceeded 95* ~ 100* C the entire time and often the dash vents were blowing 48* F , out side temps ranged from 113* F to 106* F , mostly remained at 108* F .

I have two other W123's with this get up and both are not working properly at the moment, we'll see what the issues are, leaks I think .

The flushing of the entire system is important as is the typ and quantity of oil used ~ some time ago a Mechanic in my old shop slapped a new DELCO R4 compressor into one of his own vehicles, (it was noisy so he changed it before it failed), vacuumed they system then added oil and charged it, was not happy that it no longer blew ice cold and so looked in the box for the new compressor instructions and found a BIG note : NOTICE : THIS NEW DELCO COMPRESSOR COMES FULL OF OIL ~ DO NOT ADD ANY AND BE SURE TO FLUSH THE SYSTEM BEFORE INSTALLATION .

Simply having too much oil sharply reduced the ability of the system to produce heat free air....

The devil is always in the details .
Yes, but sometimes a lot of oil flows out before getting the manifold sealed to the compressor. On GM applications, most all have the connections on the top, so no oil drips out. With the MB applications having the connection on the bottom, I drain the compressor and add the proper amount of oil during the charge process. This is also very important when using R12, as the factory supplied oil is usually PAG.

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  #17  
Old 06-30-2020, 08:37 AM
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Location: New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Yes, all good points. I have not seen a single drier with a 123 or 126 part number without a sight glass. Newer vehicles made to run R134a do not have a sight glass.
I know they exist! When the pulley sheared off on my 240D, it was because the compressor seized up. So I got to do a whole new system, and the shop that did it, sourced the dryer. The one they got has no glass.
I suspect some modern ones have no glass because it’s cheaper to make and unnecessary as I understand it, for 134.

Of course my car runs r-12, and many years later now it’s no worse for not having it. It blows cold without any major concerns from me. But I always do wish it was there!
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #18  
Old 06-30-2020, 08:53 AM
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ROLLGUY
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
I know they exist! When the pulley sheared off on my 240D, it was because the compressor seized up. So I got to do a whole new system, and the shop that did it, sourced the dryer. The one they got has no glass.
I suspect some modern ones have no glass because it’s cheaper to make and unnecessary as I understand it, for 134.

Of course my car runs r-12, and many years later now it’s no worse for not having it. It blows cold without any major concerns from me. But I always do wish it was there!
Could it be that the one you think does not have a glass, is just hiding it behind a disc of masking tape? The glass gets masked with a round sticker (masking), and then the entire piece is painted (caps and all). I bet yours does have a glass, it's just hidden under the masking.
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  #19  
Old 06-30-2020, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Could it be that the one you think does not have a glass, is just hiding it behind a disc of masking tape? The glass gets masked with a round sticker (masking), and then the entire piece is painted (caps and all). I bet yours does have a glass, it's just hidden under the masking.
Hmmm, that would be embarrassing

I’ll have a look next time I’m driving the car.
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #20  
Old 06-30-2020, 11:55 AM
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re: the oil

I remember how carefully I drained the factory oil from my new R4 compressor, and how I measured and filled with proper amount the oil I wanted to use (I wanted an oil I could use with either r12 or r134) - all to see half/most of it spill on my garage floor when I tried to install the manifold once I'd mounted the compressor! argh. I then had to estimate/guess how much I lost and inject it in above the compressor on the low-side line when I had the shrader valve out for replacement.
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Montclair, NJ
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1982 300D Turbo
120k
Petrol Blue Green
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  #21  
Old 07-01-2020, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuene View Post
re: the oil

I remember how carefully I drained the factory oil from my new R4 compressor, and how I measured and filled with proper amount the oil I wanted to use (I wanted an oil I could use with either r12 or r134) - all to see half/most of it spill on my garage floor when I tried to install the manifold once I'd mounted the compressor! argh. I then had to estimate/guess how much I lost and inject it in above the compressor on the low-side line when I had the shrader valve out for replacement.
Exactly as I described in post 16. That is why it is always best to put the entire load of oil in other components, or during the charge process.
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  #22  
Old 07-01-2020, 04:53 PM
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Location: South Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuene View Post
re: the oil

I remember how carefully I drained the factory oil from my new R4 compressor, and how I measured and filled with proper amount the oil I wanted to use (I wanted an oil I could use with either r12 or r134) - all to see half/most of it spill on my garage floor when I tried to install the manifold once I'd mounted the compressor! argh. I then had to estimate/guess how much I lost and inject it in above the compressor on the low-side line when I had the shrader valve out for replacement.
The shop manual -at least the w126 one- has a byzantine i.e. teutonic procedure regarding how to measure the amount of oil. Looks easy to get wrong.
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  #23  
Old 07-01-2020, 05:24 PM
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In the past I have always sent a message to Dmitry at Pelican concerning scams or highly offensive posts. He has always responded and taken down the post in question.
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  #24  
Old 07-04-2020, 04:23 AM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
Posts: 204
Thanks one and all for all the great tips and advice.

As it turns out, I was mistaken about my mechanic still doing R12 work. He does not. So I will switching to R134a it seems.

Does anyone have tips on mail ordering hoses? I live in a very remote area out here and it's not so easy to get anything done in person.
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  #25  
Old 07-04-2020, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 300TD1982 View Post
Thanks one and all for all the great tips and advice.

As it turns out, I was mistaken about my mechanic still doing R12 work. He does not. So I will switching to R134a it seems.

Does anyone have tips on mail ordering hoses? I live in a very remote area out here and it's not so easy to get anything done in person.
The process to leak check and repair is the same. He should be able to order R-12. Better choice.
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #26  
Old 07-05-2020, 03:36 PM
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Diesel Dandy
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
Posts: 7,717
Post AC Hoses

I'd try the M-B Classic Center first but there are plenty of places every where (LOTS of Hot Rods up North) that will make up AC hoses using your old ones for patterns....

BE SURE TO WRITE YOU NEED THE OLD HOSES BACK ! .

The custom made to fit one might well be cheaper too .

The modern 'barrier' typ I hear about are thinner and blue in color on the ones I've seen .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
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I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #27  
Old 07-14-2020, 04:19 PM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
Posts: 204
I've found replacements for some of the AC hoses, but several are NLA.



A shop has offered to rebuild my AC hoses by removing the metal ends and welding hose barbs to them, and then using an off-the-shelf hose (with Oetiker clamps or similar, I assume). I like this idea as it would future-proof the car (if any hoses need replacing in the next few decades it would be easy).


He can only do this if the hose ends are steel, not aluminum.


Any info on what metal the hose ends are?
Any opinions/experience with this particular approach?
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  #28  
Old 07-14-2020, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300TD1982 View Post
I've found replacements for some of the AC hoses, but several are NLA.



A shop has offered to rebuild my AC hoses by removing the metal ends and welding hose barbs to them, and then using an off-the-shelf hose (with Oetiker clamps or similar, I assume). I like this idea as it would future-proof the car (if any hoses need replacing in the next few decades it would be easy).


He can only do this if the hose ends are steel, not aluminum.


Any info on what metal the hose ends are?
Any opinions/experience with this particular approach?
All the hose assemblies are steel, and welding on barbs is the best way if you want to have new hoses that fit the factory location. This is only needed where a stock bead-lock fitting is not available.
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  #29  
Old 07-17-2020, 02:04 PM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
All the hose assemblies are steel, and welding on barbs is the best way if you want to have new hoses that fit the factory location. This is only needed where a stock bead-lock fitting is not available.

Thank you, that's good news!


Now I'm thinking about just making all the hoses myself. The bead lock tool is not super expensive and I've found a source for metric bead lock fittings, and I'm pretty sure someone on the forum did a write up of their own rebuild. Even with buying the tool and fittings, it might be cheaper than paying a shop to do it.
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  #30  
Old 07-17-2020, 02:08 PM
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ROLLGUY
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300TD1982 View Post
Thank you, that's good news!


Now I'm thinking about just making all the hoses myself. The bead lock tool is not super expensive and I've found a source for metric bead lock fittings, and I'm pretty sure someone on the forum did a write up of their own rebuild. Even with buying the tool and fittings, it might be cheaper than paying a shop to do it.
No need for metric hose or fittings. Everything needed is either #6-#12 (6,8,10,12). All this is standard A/C stuff. Also, as long as you are welding on fittings, weld on a male fitting on the low side hard pipe instead of a barb. That way the hose will have a fitting on both ends, and can be easily replaced without cutting off the sleeve to replace the hose. I do it this way on all the Sanden retrofits I do.....Rich
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