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  #16  
Old 06-28-2020, 08:21 AM
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I think my attraction to the om648 may just be due to some kind of diesel instinct. Certainly it has a reputation for being great but they seem to be so rare at this point. Not sure if I want to or have the patience to dally arround in the market trying to find one.

Jay-bob, I’m glad you chimednin about the om648 cars. They seem to be more attainable and less expensive.

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  #17  
Old 06-28-2020, 09:20 AM
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Ya you gotta get the cdi 648 that's the one that's gonna hold the most value in the end.

And I dunno about the 642 some people say "it's not that bad" but I seem to being seeing a lot of threads and info that it does have a lot of problems.

I imagine this mostly due to the post 06 emmision rules.

It just seems like you have to do a full egr delete on the 642 pretty much no matter what. And a lot of you guys seem to live in those states where they actually physical inspect your vehicle in order to get tabs.
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  #18  
Old 06-28-2020, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
And don't overlook the 2007-2009 facelift W211 models. Yes they have the OM642 engine but it's not as bad as everyone makes it out to be.

They did improve a lot of stuff in the facelift models. Notably the 7-speed 722.9 instead of 5-speed 722.6 transmission, and normal ABS brakes instead of the goofy SBS system.

Plan on having to change the VGS (aka conductor plate) in the transmission unless you have records of it being done already, negotiate in the $1850 it will cost at the dealer (and it is a dealer only repair). That and oil cooler seals are the two big weaknesses.

Both versions of the W211 eat front suspension parts. That is a way of life in this platform. Fortunately since it is not an open spring system like the prior models it is easy (and safe) to unload the front suspension with a floor jack to replace parts. The only tricky repair is replacing the shocks, they are coil-overs and you have to compress that spring to remove the shock. This is done outside the car on a special clamping jig at the workbench.

Except for a couple of improper repairs prior to my ownership, we've had good luck with ours. Bought with 180k in the spring of 2018 and now has about 215k and counting. My son drives it 40 mi each way to work and loving the 35+ mpgs in mixed city/highway driving.

We had 2 things that caused trouble. One was an improper windshield replacement that caused water to leak down under the dash and short out the central gateway module. This caused a short between the CAN-H and CAN-L lines of both the engine and body buses and caused the car to become a potato.

The other was when the prior owner had a shop change the oil cooler seals they neglected to replace the gaskets in the intake tract and just put everything back together. This caused black crap to blow all over the front of the engine and killed the original alternator. Two NAPA rebuild alternators and finally a genuine MB remanufactured alternator, along with new seals and a ton of elbow grease, solved that problem.

They really are great when properly sorted.
jay- on OM642... I heard repairing oil cooler seals-- is $$$ labor job? What do you say?
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  #19  
Old 06-28-2020, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogweed View Post
.............................................
w211 chassis is decent and i enjoy driving all the cars. started with a w116 and have had every diesel model up the line i would say the cdi is the best diesel i've owned. ......................................
Sounds like you have taken a page right out of my playbook! I too have had all the Diesel models, and chassis configurations, and have landed on the 211 chassis. Having had three 211 Diesels, I can't say there is or was a better Diesel powered car made. Although I am driving a gas 211 now, it is a wagon. I find it to be very versatile, and don't know how I survived without it! If these were available in the 'States as a CDI, I would surely have one. The desire to have and use a wagon has brought me out of the Diesel only lifestyle, and I have no regrets. The M112 of this era is probably the best gasoline engine made by MB. The later version is plagued with problems. Enough about that, this is Diesel Discussion .......Rich
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  #20  
Old 06-28-2020, 02:43 PM
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i think a lot of us use the same playbook, tbh
i like the e500 ok, but the diesels are boss.....i actually put down some rubber pulling away from a light today! try that in a w123!
i did take the w116 out for a drive the other day and after i got used to the absence of modern features, i had to admit it still drives pretty well for a 40 y.o. car
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Sounds like you have taken a page right out of my playbook! I too have had all the Diesel models, and chassis configurations, and have landed on the 211 chassis. Having had three 211 Diesels, I can't say there is or was a better Diesel powered car made. Although I am driving a gas 211 now, it is a wagon. I find it to be very versatile, and don't know how I survived without it! If these were available in the 'States as a CDI, I would surely have one. The desire to have and use a wagon has brought me out of the Diesel only lifestyle, and I have no regrets. The M112 of this era is probably the best gasoline engine made by MB. The later version is plagued with problems. Enough about that, this is Diesel Discussion .......Rich
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  #21  
Old 06-28-2020, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallbenz View Post
jay- on OM642... I heard repairing oil cooler seals-- is $$$ labor job? What do you say?
Parts kit about $600 from f c p euro
Special tool for injector line $50
Copy of WIS $20 online
Oil and filter $100
Coolant and gallon of distilled $40
Otherwise you really just need decent e-Torx sockets and a torque wrench
If you have everything in hand it can be done in a long weekend.
If I had to do it all again probably two days for me, one day to take it apart, and one day to put back together.

Dealer will charge 3-5k for this.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #22  
Old 06-28-2020, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
Parts kit about $600 from f c p euro
Special tool for injector line $50
Copy of WIS $20 online
Oil and filter $100
Coolant and gallon of distilled $40
Otherwise you really just need decent e-Torx sockets and a torque wrench
If you have everything in hand it can be done in a long weekend.
If I had to do it all again probably two days for me, one day to take it apart, and one day to put back together.

Dealer will charge 3-5k for this.
Been there, done that. BTW, I have a folder full of color copies of the step-by-step instructions if someone wants them. PM for details......Rich
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  #23  
Old 06-28-2020, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speednjay View Post
Honestly as a work beater.. I think you’ll have cheaper maintenance, cheaper up front cost, more selection, And still get respectable mpgs with a w211 gas e320. I use to drive 600 miles a week with a w210 diesel and now with the w124 320 it’s half the operating cost. Ya know actual Total cost per mile to Use the car
+1
If you want a reliable daily driver get an E320 or E500 (prefecelift) gasser. The CDI is cute and all but for overall reliability and total ownership cost (purchase price + maintainance + fuel) the m112 and m113 gasser can't be beat. Fun fact: both the m112 and m113 are perfectly happy on 87 octane.

E320 wagon 160k miles $3000, E500 sport with 100k miles $4000.
https://i.imgur.com/T8ThkBA.jpg
Unless you MUST HAVE the diesel, there's no way to rationally justify the cost of the CDI. I see then pop up on CL for $8-12k and ask myself... why?
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Last edited by tjts1; 06-28-2020 at 11:39 PM.
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  #24  
Old 06-28-2020, 11:56 PM
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The issue with all of them is that the W211 chassis is just Blah in terms of driving dynamics. It feels very heavy and bloated. The W124, W210, W203 (yes I know its smaller/c-class), and W212 all drive with a greater feeling of agility. I've driven both a W211 wagon (2007) and 2009 E350 Sport many times....always boring. I wrote off the W211 after the battery died in my brother's 2009 and we couldn't get into the trunk to charge/replace the battery. No jump posts under the hood + the manual lock cylinder on the trunk decided to be broken despite being virtually never used, just spun around uselessly and never released the lock. Ended up having to trickle charge it off a jump starter pack with a double ended cig outlet cable I made into the socket in the car for an hour to get enough juice for it to be willing to pop the trunk. W210 has jump posts, W212 does....my van does... Why not the W211!?
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'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #25  
Old 06-29-2020, 12:43 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
The issue with all of them is that the W211 chassis is just Blah in terms of driving dynamics. It feels very heavy and bloated. The W124, W210, W203 (yes I know its smaller/c-class), and W212 all drive with a greater feeling of agility. I've driven both a W211 wagon (2007) and 2009 E350 Sport many times....always boring. I wrote off the W211 after the battery died in my brother's 2009 and we couldn't get into the trunk to charge/replace the battery. No jump posts under the hood + the manual lock cylinder on the trunk decided to be broken despite being virtually never used, just spun around uselessly and never released the lock. Ended up having to trickle charge it off a jump starter pack with a double ended cig outlet cable I made into the socket in the car for an hour to get enough juice for it to be willing to pop the trunk. W210 has jump posts, W212 does....my van does... Why not the W211!?
Jump starting-

The scuttlebutt I heard was that you are "not supposed to jump-start a 211" because of sensitive electronics. In part I believe that to be true. My former '09 E320 Bluetec was jump-started by the former owner, and the instrument cluster suffered irreparable damage. It was sent for repair, and could not be completely repaired. To this day (my sister-in-law owns the car now), it still gives the "convenience functions not available" warning, even though everything works just fine. If one is able to get in the trunk, the battery should be removed and then charged or replaced.
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  #26  
Old 06-29-2020, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
+1
If you want a reliable daily driver get an E320 or E500 (prefecelift) gasser. The CDI is cute and all but for overall reliability and total ownership cost (purchase price + maintainance + fuel) the m112 and m113 gasser can't be beat. Fun fact: both the m112 and m113 are perfectly happy on 87 octane.

E320 wagon 160k miles $3000, E500 sport with 100k miles $4000.
https://i.imgur.com/T8ThkBA.jpg
Unless you MUST HAVE the diesel, there's no way to rationally justify the cost of the CDI. I see then pop up on CL for $8-12k and ask myself... why?
I get free(to me) diesel. So, take + fuel out of the equation. What is The tpp +mant+fuel sum for the gas car is the question. If I was still even or less I might be interested.
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  #27  
Old 06-29-2020, 06:36 AM
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Petroleum or biodiesel?

Official MB party line is no more than B5 allowed in the common rail engines.

I know there are others on here who run bio on these. GregMN?

But on the other hand I see commercial vehicles (most notably National rent a car shuttles and WM garbage trucks) claiming to be running B99 and apparently with no issues. So I don’t know where MB is coming from with the B5 advisory.

Personally I am not willing to run the gamble on the $3k high pressure pump or the $700/ea injectors to try anything else. One of my cars still on CPO extended warranty so I have to play by the rules on that one.

Some stations around here have gone to B20, you have to be careful and watch out for the stickers on the pumps.

Bio in the older OM60x and 61x? Hell yea. Just make sure your fuel hoses and o-rings are in good shape for it.
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #28  
Old 06-29-2020, 08:42 AM
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Yeah if that free diesel is Petro I'd pick whatever is most powerful Why not a V10 Toureg, the free fuel will mostly offset the repair costs.

If its biodiesel I'd not go any newer than an OM606 turbo (1999)

Depending on what your willing to pay for the car you may find it a lot easier to find a nice 2012+ E250 with the OM651 engine. No SBC brake system to worry about, and an overall newer vehicle vs the W211 which is now 15+ years old.

Based on my own experience and a lot of what I have read the OM651 is far less risky than the OM642 in ownership costs.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #29  
Old 06-29-2020, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
I get free(to me) diesel. So, take + fuel out of the equation. What is The tpp +mant+fuel sum for the gas car is the question. If I was still even or less I might be interested.
Then by all means go for the CDI. Or import an E400 V8 CDI. With free fuel you can afford to do such things. I
still pay for my gas and diesel with money I have to earn so the math is a little different.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
Yeah if that free diesel is Petro I'd pick whatever is most powerful Why not a V10 Toureg, the free fuel will mostly offset the repair costs.
Don't sell yourself short. Why not import an Audi V12 TDI?



I'd like to know more about this free diesel fuel giveaway. Which gang/mob do I have to join? Does it involve any sweet face tattoes?
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Last edited by tjts1; 06-29-2020 at 10:19 AM.
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  #30  
Old 06-29-2020, 09:32 AM
jay_bob's Avatar
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The 212 diesel was OM642 through MY 2013. The facelift happened in 2014 and they switched to OM651.

Easy way to tell pre vs post facelift 212: pre facelift has 5 barrel instrument cluster with the clock there. The post facelift has a 3 barrel cluster and the clock in the center of the dash.

Only worry I have with the 651 is it’s a twin turbo 4 cylinder. It’s got to be working extra hard to move such a big car (or worse a W166) and I wonder long term how that’s going to last. In the GLK not so much.

I can tell from first hand experience, having two sedans and two SUVs powered by OM642s, it’s not loafing to move the sedans, but it is sure working its tail off to move the SUVs.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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