CDI shopping today - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Phillytwotank · #31 06-29-2020, 01:46 PM

To be clear, i'm talking about pure ULSD. I'm still working in biodiesel but on the feedstock processing side now. all the fats and oils that we produce goes to big renewable diesel plants.

pawoSD · #32 06-30-2020, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_bob

The 212 diesel was OM642 through MY 2013. The facelift happened in 2014 and they switched to OM651.

Easy way to tell pre vs post facelift 212: pre facelift has 5 barrel instrument cluster with the clock there. The post facelift has a 3 barrel cluster and the clock in the center of the dash.

Only worry I have with the 651 is it’s a twin turbo 4 cylinder. It’s got to be working extra hard to move such a big car (or worse a W166) and I wonder long term how that’s going to last. In the GLK not so much.

I can tell from first hand experience, having two sedans and two SUVs powered by OM642s, it’s not loafing to move the sedans, but it is sure working its tail off to move the SUVs.

The GLK is heavier and less aerodynamic than the E-class.....curb weight on my GLK250 is approx 4,450lbs.

The OM651 was used in the Sprinter and moves that along just fine too.

Short of a sprinter pulling a massive trailer, the OM651 isn't taxed in just about any setting....its got tons of torque/power.

It has a far simpler timing chain design, much of the engine internals are gear driven, less overall to go wrong. I push mine to the max on a regular basis and have had 0 issues with it in 21,000+ miles/2 years. Also WAY easier to work on an I4 engine than a V6.

jay_bob · #33 06-30-2020, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

The GLK is heavier and less aerodynamic than the E-class.....curb weight on my GLK250 is approx 4,450lbs.

The OM651 was used in the Sprinter and moves that along just fine too.

Short of a sprinter pulling a massive trailer, the OM651 isn't taxed in just about any setting....its got tons of torque/power.

It has a far simpler timing chain design, much of the engine internals are gear driven, less overall to go wrong. I push mine to the max on a regular basis and have had 0 issues with it in 21,000+ miles/2 years. Also WAY easier to work on an I4 engine than a V6.

That’s good to hear. Looks like my concern is unfounded.

Phillytwotank · #34 06-30-2020, 09:57 PM

The search goes on. I’m seeing a couple potential candidates in the Raleigh nc area. May plan on doing a trip up there this Friday.

Bigdaddybenz · #35 07-05-2020, 07:11 AM

I'm with J-Bob, 100%!!!.... I have had every Mercedes diesel, first one being a W114 220 D with the old plunger start switch and the in dash glow plug indicator that you could light a cigarette off of!

I have literally owned over 30 Mercedes diesels in my life including a stretch limousine, that I wish I still had.

If I have it my way, I will always own a W211 E320 CDI, this is my 2nd.

Unmatched performance, aesthetically pleasing body and interior, comfortable and best of all fairly simple.

I have neighbors with Bluetecs and though that car is modern comparatively they tell me that the maintenance cost are astronomical. I can do just about anything on my E320 CDI myself, it's a great car to work on and the mpgs that I get with the performance is incredible.

I will be purchasing another one in the Fall to replace my wife's 1999 E300 D and I don't care if Diesel prices go up! I love this car!!!!

Skid Row Joe · #36 07-08-2020, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

The issue with all of them is that the W211 chassis is just Blah in terms of driving dynamics. It feels very heavy and bloated. The W124, W210, W203 (yes I know its smaller/c-class), and W212 all drive with a greater feeling of agility. I've driven both a W211 wagon (2007) and 2009 E350 Sport many times....always boring. I wrote off the W211 after the battery died in my brother's 2009 and we couldn't get into the trunk to charge/replace the battery. No jump posts under the hood + the manual lock cylinder on the trunk decided to be broken despite being virtually never used, just spun around uselessly and never released the lock. Ended up having to trickle charge it off a jump starter pack with a double ended cig outlet cable I made into the socket in the car for an hour to get enough juice for it to be willing to pop the trunk. W210 has jump posts, W212 does....my van does... Why not the W211!?

Do you happen to have a photo of the locations for this/these connections? I'd like to attach a battery tender to a W210 E300.

Skid Row Joe · #37 07-08-2020, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

Do you happen to have a photo of the locations for this/these connections? I'd like to attach a battery tender to a W210 E300.

Wonder what's involved in turning the cigarette lighter(s) into a "receiver of current" to charge via battery tender? They won't accept charging...
I'd like both the 06 CDI & the 99 E300 to have the simplicity of this....

jay_bob · #38 07-08-2020, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

Do you happen to have a photo of the locations for this/these connections? I'd like to attach a battery tender to a W210 E300.

210 jump post is on the left side of the engine bay. There is a black cover with a + sign on it, it is just in front of the fuse/relay/front SAM box. The black cover pops off and there is a stud that is Battery + within. The owners manual says to use the rear engine lifting lug for the ground connection.

On the 211 you are pretty much SOL if the battery dies to the point you can't get the trunk open. I think the only option at that point is to go up from below in the engine bay and clip onto the B+ terminal on the alternator or the main battery terminal on the starter to get some power into the system.

jay_bob · #39 07-08-2020, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

Wonder what's involved in turning the cigarette lighter(s) into a "receiver of current" to charge via battery tender? They won't accept charging...
I'd like both the 06 CDI & the 99 E300 to have the simplicity of this....

On the 210 they probably are going through the key switch to enable/disable the lighter socket, and so you're probably better off adding another lighter socket that is fused and attached to the battery directly. This is easy to do in the 210 as there is plenty of space in the rear fuse box under the back seat (which has nothing but direct battery circuits) to add another fuse and put in a new lighter socket where it's convenient. You could probably install it in the wall beneath the right rear seat very easily, just go to the junk yard (or auto parts store) and find a generic 12 V outlet assembly with a flip cover.

On the 211 the key switch just puts out CAN bus messages to tell everything else on the bus to power up. The front SAM gets the message and pulls in relays to energize the switched power. They arranged the fuse box so that the lighter socket in the ash tray can be set up for switched (terminal 15) or unswitched (terminal 30) power. The fuse holder has 3 holes for the lighter fuse, if you put the fuse in one pair of holes it connects the lighter socket to circuit 15 and in the other pair of holes it connects to circuit 30. Saw this on a YouTube video, one of the 'life hacks for W211' that is floating around.

shertex · #40 07-08-2020, 10:38 PM

On the W211 with a dead battery you just open the trunk with the blade key. Good to make sure it works in advance.

DDAY · #41 07-09-2020, 12:05 AM

The blade key would not work for me when the battery was discharged.
Solution: There are several wiring connections under the carpet in front of the passenger seat. Pull the carpet back on the sloping part of the floor. Remove some insulation and a stamped metal shield and you have access to the battery wire feeding the front part of the car. Clip the +charger connector onto the battery wire connection. Clip the ground charger connector on to any frame ground. Turn on the slow charger and drink a beer. When the beer is gone open the trunk.

shertex · #42 07-09-2020, 04:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDAY

The blade key would not work for me when the battery was discharged.
Solution: There are several wiring connections under the carpet in front of the passenger seat. Pull the carpet back on the sloping part of the floor. Remove some insulation and a stamped metal shield and you have access to the battery wire feeding the front part of the car. Clip the +charger connector onto the battery wire connection. Clip the ground charger connector on to any frame ground. Turn on the slow charger and drink a beer. When the beer is gone open the trunk.

That’s surprising… I thought the whole point of the blade key was to be able to access the car in the event of a dead battery. But glad to learn of your workaround.

jay_bob · #43 07-09-2020, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

That’s surprising… I thought the whole point of the blade key was to be able to access the car in the event of a dead battery. But glad to learn of your workaround.

The blade key is the way to open the trunk with no power. However the keyhole is up under the lip of the trunk lid. On my 211 the keyhole was completely caked in road grime and the lid was waterlogged.

I took everything apart (the plastic assembly where the license plate goes) and cleaned it out and resealed it. The linkage between the lock and the latching mechanism isn't the best and I can see where the rod connecting them could break.

Thus leaving you with no way to mechanically open the trunk.

In that case you have to do something electrical. If you can't get in the passenger compartment go up from underneath and clip onto the starter or alternator. If you can get inside then go to the battery plus connection under the carpet.

pawoSD · #44 07-09-2020, 12:26 PM

I put the W211 I was dealing with into key option position 1 and connected a cable from my charger to the 12V outlet....after 45ish mins it had enough juice to pop the trunk.

The blade key method was useless, just spun around. Linkage was likely broken despite never being used.

My bro traded that car a while back. He has a 2016 E400 now. Now thats a machine.

330HP!

tjts1 · #45 07-10-2020, 03:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

I put the W211 I was dealing with into key option position 1 and connected a cable from my charger to the 12V outlet....after 45ish mins it had enough juice to pop the trunk.

The blade key method was useless, just spun around. Linkage was likely broken despite never being used.

My bro traded that car a while back. He has a 2016 E400 now. Now thats a machine.

330HP!

Why not just use the charging port under the hood?