CDI shopping today
 

Hey you guysss

I’m ready to pull the trigger on a new car. Been driving more for my new job. About 350 all highway miles per week. While, my iceberg is still running great at 415k I’m not trying to run er into the ground till she dies. I would rather keep her useable and shift the bulk of the work load to something newer and more comfortable.
Of course CDI is at the top of my list. I’m going up the mountain to look at two potentials right now. Both seemingly very clean from the pictures and low miles. Around 100k. By what I gather it seems like They’re asking big money.
I don’t mind paying a big money price for one as long as it’s big nice.
So, I’ve got an icarsoft i980 and some hand tools and I plan on giving it a real close look.

You are probably familiar with "black death". A good negotiating point if not to bad if any. Plastic engine cover needs to come off for inspection.
Even if none still worth bringing up as a potential near term problem. I will be going down that road sometime next year. Good luck.

I believe CDI was for both the 642 and 648 engines. If the 648 is what you want the late 05 and 06 models will have all the software updates. I purchased a early 05 last year and need to schedule the software updates soon. Not certain if icarsoft can read total current draw but it's useful to ensure the car doesn't have a parasitic drain after shutting the engine off. Good luck sounds like fun.

They are both om648 cars. An 05 and a 06 e320

I’m on a test drive right now.
I can say within 3 minutes of driving this car that it is not top dollar nice.
Zero evidence of Black Death so that’s good but
No records, no history various broken interior trims,Wobble at speed, scuffed wheels, faded headlights.

Ooooold tires, peeling clear coat on c pilar, water in trunk

Are those the two-- 122k and 102k at same dealer? On Consignment?

too high priced... unless really clean- with real good records

be patient- you will find one... but most likely will have to travel for it...

I was debating on buying a 2nd one- seen 2 really nice well kept ones in florida recently-- but sold quick- Listed $8100 - 122k miles,,, other was 145k - one owner- with lots of service records- for $5700- sold in about a week

Yes, those are the two.
Disappointing. I was really hoping that given the number on the OD and the number on the sticker I was going to find two very nice CDIs. Nope!

Well-- there is another guy in Carolina (I think)-- who had a real nice looking
white CDI- around 128k miles- for around $7,800

He took it off market- due to Covid... said he just replaced g plugs/ and something else?

I asked him to take photos of the injectors- to check for BDeath... I saw the very early signs (little tint of yellow around couple of injectors) of possible leaks

He said his mechanic- checked and said ok... I left it there

BUT-- If you are handy-- you could fix those seals yourself???

Car had Multi-contour seats!!!! If interested - let me know and I can probably find his Info

Honestly as a work beater.. I think you’ll have cheaper maintenance, cheaper up front cost, more selection, And still get respectable mpgs with a w211 gas e320. I use to drive 600 miles a week with a w210 diesel and now with the w124 320 it’s half the operating cost. Ya know actual Total cost per mile to Use the car

I hear you. Two things though. One, I’m not looking for a “beater”. I’m wanting an upgrade in comfort. Two, I have access to diesel fuel as part of my work compensation. So, that is definitely a huge factor in my decision.
True, there are plenty of really nice gas powered w211 cars out there. I’m looking at them now and working the numbers on potentially getting one, buying gasoline and still coming out cheeper.

i have 2 2005 cdi's and a 2005 e500 4matic. none of them are beaters or super nice (but they were all super-cheap!!)....the e500 and one of the cdi's are pretty well optioned and the second cdi is not as well appointed. both cdi's have over 200k and the e500 has 108k.
w211 chassis is decent and i enjoy driving all the cars. started with a w116 and have had every diesel model up the line i would say the cdi is the best diesel i've owned.
good luck with the search!
edit: i strongly recommend the massaging seats!!!!! just took the e500 out and in dynamic mode the seat bolsters hold you in as you corner.....totally cool

To get me to drive a gas W211 it would need to be an E55. :D

You give up a LOT of torque going from OM648 to M112, while it is a terrific/reliable engine, its also fairly boring. With rear wheel drive its probably ok but a 4matic W211 is a slug off the line with M112 OR M272. Its a heavy car that needs some torque to get it moving. My W210 wagon isn't slow....but it feels like it compared to my diesel and even my Metris (lots of torque with the M274 turbo off the line) The 7 speed trans helps a lot too.

And don't overlook the 2007-2009 facelift W211 models. Yes they have the OM642 engine but it's not as bad as everyone makes it out to be.

They did improve a lot of stuff in the facelift models. Notably the 7-speed 722.9 instead of 5-speed 722.6 transmission, and normal ABS brakes instead of the goofy SBS system.

Plan on having to change the VGS (aka conductor plate) in the transmission unless you have records of it being done already, negotiate in the $1850 it will cost at the dealer (and it is a dealer only repair). That and oil cooler seals are the two big weaknesses.

Both versions of the W211 eat front suspension parts. That is a way of life in this platform. Fortunately since it is not an open spring system like the prior models it is easy (and safe) to unload the front suspension with a floor jack to replace parts. The only tricky repair is replacing the shocks, they are coil-overs and you have to compress that spring to remove the shock. This is done outside the car on a special clamping jig at the workbench.

Except for a couple of improper repairs prior to my ownership, we've had good luck with ours. Bought with 180k in the spring of 2018 and now has about 215k and counting. My son drives it 40 mi each way to work and loving the 35+ mpgs in mixed city/highway driving.

We had 2 things that caused trouble. One was an improper windshield replacement that caused water to leak down under the dash and short out the central gateway module. This caused a short between the CAN-H and CAN-L lines of both the engine and body buses and caused the car to become a potato.

The other was when the prior owner had a shop change the oil cooler seals they neglected to replace the gaskets in the intake tract and just put everything back together. This caused black crap to blow all over the front of the engine and killed the original alternator. Two NAPA rebuild alternators and finally a genuine MB remanufactured alternator, along with new seals and a ton of elbow grease, solved that problem.

They really are great when properly sorted.

For the most part that is the way I see it.