For an 87 300SDL, I destroyed mine trying to remove the inner bearing race so I need another one to take to a shop to have it changed. Either between Davis and Cordelia in CA or that can be shipped. If not I can find one in a few weeks, but the only running car I have right now is a 66 Beetle and all the W126s in Pick-n-pull right now are farther than I can safely drive it.

Take a look in eBay.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

116, 123, 126 all'e same

Aren't the original ones from non-abs cars different? New ones are the same as far as I know though. I didn't see anything but new ones on eBay, if I can't get a used one for less than $60 or so I will just wait until I get get to the junkyard to get a used one rather than paying $300 for a new one.

Tell me about the '66, I assume it's a # 113 ? .

I buy nearly new hubs with bearings for under $35 at the LKQ yards in California, I never trust the old grease seals and I always remove, clean, inspect, re pack then install and adjust the bearings inner and outer .

It's very simple if dirty work .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

The 66 is just a standard bug that originally had a 1300, and my mom bought it from someone who had replaced the engine and did a maaco paint job and put a bunch of chinese restoration parts on it. I normally drive a Subaru Legacy but I am 3/4 of the way done with swapping the transmission but between the heat wave and smoke I haven't finished it yet. Once the Subaru is done I will get another used hub from the salvage yard (if I don't find one elsewhere first) and repair the Mercedes. I will use new bearings and grease seals, the issue is that to get the inner race out you have to have the punch at such an extreme angle that I ended up gouging a big chunk out of the hub where the race sits. I will take it to a machine shop to have that part done, otherwise I have replaced that type of bearings plenty of times on other cars with no issue.

I'll vouch for LKQ, most of the time they can scrounge up hard to find parts.

O.K., sounds like you have a well thought out plan .

FWIW, knocking out bearing races isn't that difficult if you have the right tools ~ I have and use, a *very* long flat nosed punch and a 32 Oz. ball peen hammer, they come right out .

I also use a 40 year old bearing installer kit that's simply a series of tapered discs and a handle that fits in the center, bang away, in they go .

The old shop way was to use the old unwanted bearing race, flipped over, against the new race, this way you can bang the hell out of it to drive in the new race then easily knock out the old race...

If you're smart you'll avoid Chinese made bearings at all cost .

Plenty of old stock German, Japanese and American made ones out there if you take the time to search after looking up the proper part # .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

There is a difference in the hubs between ABS and non ABS equipped cars. This means on a post 86 car you will want to find a hub from one of similar years (86-91). They are the same between gas/diesel though, so there should be some out there available.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)