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#16
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Be aware that there are vacuum water valves that work either way- vacuum applied=no flow, or vacuum applied=flow. Tailor your system to work accordingly. I like to have the valves closed all the time, so the A/C does not have to play catch-up from the hot coolant getting into the core when the engine is shut down, and then started up minutes later (running errands and going many places).
You could also use your compressor signal to actuate the vacuum valve to close the water valve/s when the compressor is running. Many months ago I bought a water valve, meaning to do this mod to one of my cars. I now just install a ball valve in the hose above the oil filter canister, and open it during the winter when I need heat. Even with a good monovalve, heat rises in the hoses and heats up the core, even with the monovalve closed. This taxes the A/C in the hot weather. The other idea I had was to re-route the coolant hoses so the hose coming off the head goes directly to the monovalve inlet, and then the core receives the hot coolant flowing out of the monovalve. This would be quite a lot of work compared to installing a vacuum valve (or valves), and would accomplish the same thing......Rich
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#17
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Make sure the valve you use to shut it off is NC or no vacuum = valve closed.
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Jim |
#18
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Quote:
Opening a can of R134 and waiting for a static pressure of 70 psi means nothing, IMO. The static pressure is indicative of the pressure in the “headspace” in a system that has liquid in it. If all you did was open a valve under vacuum, and let the tank re-flash, you just got the vapor to equilibrate, you didn’t get the full charge necessary. You need to subsequently open the fill valve, with the engine and compressor running at 15 psi, which will introduce more refrigerant into the system (since it wants to be at roughly 70 psi in the vapor phase. I don’t know that these results you reported are indicative of a bad compressor. Maybe they are... but you’re undercharged. The 65psi on the low side with engine off shows that. It is curious that high side says 5 psi... but I don’t know that this is related to the compressor versus elsewhere in the system...
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
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