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  #31  
Old 12-15-2020, 08:33 PM
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I've been thinking about this all day and the part I skipped and should have done was to turn the engine over a couple times and checking timing again before buttoning it up. I'm still trying to remember if I put it at #1 at 14 d past TDC. I'll get back on it tomorrow hopefully.

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  #32  
Old 12-15-2020, 11:09 PM
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Not a chance the injection pump is timed to the wrong stroke. Unlike the earlier engines they will run half decently just not as well. Both cam and bottom damper marks where close to their marks when you installed the pump?

Original pump that bad injectors might be garbage? Original pump may have been on wrong stroke when arrived? All very long shots.

Last edited by barry12345; 12-15-2020 at 11:24 PM.
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  #33  
Old 12-16-2020, 06:48 PM
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It is on the correct stroke - ATDC of #1.

I did see that the locking "pin" in the injection pump was in the very bottom position of the port (at 14d ATDC). I was able to adjust it out. The top of the pump rotated towards the engine to get to the correct position. I should be able to get it running again tomorrow.
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  #34  
Old 12-16-2020, 10:45 PM
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Not clear. There are two differant times the damper mark is at top dead center during a four stroke engines function. I really think you know this. You have to make certain the cam mark is near the mark when installing the injection pump. Sounds like you have not seen the cam mark yet.

Even though the old injection pump may not have been good. The engine may have been hard to start hot even with a good injection pump on the wrong stroke. I stated it was a very long shot.

Both because of your good knowledge and some other factors. You would be in good company as the most knowledgeable guy on the site ever I believe or close to it missed this. The old 123s made it all too clear that the injection pump was on the wrong stroke. The newer engines much less so. Left and used longer term this way can damage the block one owner experienced. Or at least he felt it did.

I guess if you can see the first lobes of the cam pointing generally upward with the lock on the pump may be easier than pulling the valve pan.

I am just an old fart these days. With perhaps some brain function left. You said the chain looks good.That means of course someone was in there perhaps not too long ago. Three hundred and fifty thousand plus miles with poor general maintenance especially inadaquate oil changes can take it's toll. If the timing seems good I would pull the injectors and have them checked. If they never have been there is little hope they are really still serviceable.
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  #35  
Old 12-17-2020, 05:51 AM
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Thanks Barry and thanks for the compliment. I'm just a mechanical engineer that finds peace when I am working on cars. I've got the valve cover off to allow me to see the lobes. Oil changes have been done often and hot on this car using synthetic oil. I do not see any stretch on the timing chain. The injectors were pulled and gone through at around 260k mles.

I'll get it buttoned back up hopefully today and see how it runs now. The lock pin in the IP is lining up at 14d ATDC on #1 now and I do plan on turning the engine over by hand at least three times to insure it continues to line up before putting it back together.
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  #36  
Old 12-17-2020, 06:18 AM
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There's a reason why the oil cap on the 606 is located where it is, it allows you to see the cam lobes on #1 to make sure you're really in the right place on the cam.

However on a turbo 606 it is very easy to remove the valve cover so you're getting a front row seat on the state of the cam.

Good to know that the chain still looks good after 300k+ miles.
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  #37  
Old 12-18-2020, 03:27 PM
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Got timing spot on and it now runs like a top. Starts easy hot or cold like it is supposed to. My learning on all this is to always use a fuel lubricant additive when filling the tank with todays US diesel.

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