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#1
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Got 98 E300 in, starts ez cold, long, long start hot
Sometimes it will run battery down before it will not start hot. Mileage is at about 375,xxx miles. It does have at least one bad glow plug that I'll replace. I'm thiking about pulling valve cover and take a look at the timing. I'm sure it will do better after resolving gp issues. With proper synthetic oil changes how long should original chain and guides last? Can stretched chain cause harder hot start than cold?
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Jim |
#2
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Hmmm, I seem to remember hearing of a similar problem and the IP was worn, the cold fuel pumping well but hot fuel not so well. Does that sound possible?
A test by bypassing the fuel heater, if it has one might be useful. I should know but frankly can't remember where the fuel heater is, I know the 603 better. DDH
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#3
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Be sure they didn’t put gas in it.
This happened to my 606 and it would start fine cold, but when hot, the fuel would vapor lock in the IP and lines.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#4
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Carry a gallon or two of water with you. The next time it happens, pour the water over the IP to cool it. If that fixes the problem, then the IP is tired. I had this happen on a 601.
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#5
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The same thing happens with the Stanadyne pumps on my trucks when they get worn. A quart of water usually get it cool enough to start.
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'75 John Deere 450C (times 2) '83 240D plus parts car '87 F350, 6.9L IDI '89 F350 crewcab, 7.3L IDI '89 F-Superduty, 7.3L IDI '91 F-250, 7.3L IDI '91 F-350, 7.3L IDI '94 F-350 Crewcab, 7.3L IDI '94 E-350 Ambulance, 7.3L IDI |
#6
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I tried spraying water and it did not seem to make a difference. I'm going to get all the gp's working then will try again.
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Jim |
#7
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On my Stanadynes, it takes trickling a quart of water over the pump, taking a minute or so to do it. The water lands on the valley pan on those International V8s, and cools the valley pan, and reduces the heat coming up below the pump, so it cools the pump and its environment. Greg's suggestion of a gallon of water might be a good one. It takes a lot of water to carry away a lot of heat.
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'75 John Deere 450C (times 2) '83 240D plus parts car '87 F350, 6.9L IDI '89 F350 crewcab, 7.3L IDI '89 F-Superduty, 7.3L IDI '91 F-250, 7.3L IDI '91 F-350, 7.3L IDI '94 F-350 Crewcab, 7.3L IDI '94 E-350 Ambulance, 7.3L IDI |
#8
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Found one bad glow plug, chanel it out and have same issue. With manifold off I'll try cooling ip again after hot and see what happems. Will definitely check ip timing.
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Jim |
#9
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I was taught that throwing cold water on a hot IP can cause it to warp and making it forever useless. Learned that from Gus at the Bosch service center in S. San Francisco now he's gone so I can't confirm it. just be careful!
DDH
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#10
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That was my understanding too so I did not just drown it when I tried it. With 360+k miles and having run for most of those miles on homemade fuel I leaning toward get the pump to a Bosch shop.
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Jim |
#11
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Yes - it will warp it. I have seen it first hand.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#12
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If you can force a glow cycle on a warm engine and it starts up smoothly after that - its a sign of a weak engine.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#13
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Finally was able to spend a some time on it today. When the horizontal metal tab is lined up in the window where I removed the bolt on the side of the injection pump the engine is at 19d past TDC. Based on everything I've read it is supposed to be at 14d past TDC. Please confirm. I'm thinking it is probably time for new timing chain guides and timing chain and probably oil pump chain and chain tensioner.
I will say it is pretty easy to turn over for it to be a diesel engine. I may go ahead and pull valve cover tomorrow and look at timing a little more.
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Jim |
#14
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With that many miles, things are wearing out. With the easy cold start, hard hot start, my guess is a tired IP. Best way to check timing/chain stretch is between the crank and the cam. The IP timing is adjustable, the cam and crank should be static except for chain wear.
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#15
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That's interesting. I'm not seeing any wear at all on timing chain, cam/crank are dead on. Will get ip to pump shop this week.
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Jim |
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