Removing Stripped Allen Head Door Striker Bolts - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gottarollwithit · #16 11-27-2020, 06:42 PM

Neat trick.
I think for the effort, I would have hammered in a torx bit, then if that failed I would have just skipped to welding a nut on. If you’re worried about spatter, toss a blanket over what you care about, or use a TIG. Remember, you only need to use the welded nut once.

I know you’re a super sharp guy, but I think I would not reuse a damaged bolt

rrgrassi · #17 11-28-2020, 02:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Do they work well?

In all the years I worked as a Mechanic I did not even know the external rounded off bolt extractors existed. I did not know the allen head extractors existed till I searched about 7 years ago.

I own some of the external rounded bolt extractors and have used it one time with success. I bought them when I walked buy and saw there was a clearance sale on them.

They work very well. just cannot re use the bolt, though. I will get the part number on the set I have ad post it here.

Junkman · #18 11-28-2020, 09:00 AM

There are a lot of vids at youtube University. I like but had never heard of/considered the method in post 1. Door strikers are like mono valves. I grab all I can when at the yards but didn't realize that the bolts were so valuable. Hopefully, I have enough in the parts pile.

Diesel911 · #19 11-28-2020, 02:27 PM

16mm long means the threaded area. I mention that because for some reason at the local industrial hardware they seemed to be using the overall length.

I bought 4 flat head allen head bolts for 80 cents each ant the threaded area was 15mm but on the label on the bin it said 20mm? which I am guessing represents the total length of the screw/bolt. Black phosphate and the allen head socket in the screw/bolt was slightly deeper.
I am going to make sure never-seize gets under the head as well as the threads hoping it will make it easier to get them out the next time.

They also had A2 stainless ones at $1.25 each.

jimmypete · #20 12-01-2020, 01:41 PM

How do you line up the new striker? Any tricks and tips on that?

Diesel911 · #21 12-01-2020, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmypete

How do you line up the new striker? Any tricks and tips on that?

There is shims for directions forward on the car and ir you remove the shim backwards.
The Bolts/Screws thread into a sliding rectangular block of metal. I have not tired it but I think that allows some inward or outward movement.

I don't know if there is up and down adjustment.

I did not view this threads so not sure what is there:

How do you properly align the door strike..

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/door-alignment.2742338/

There was more. I did an image.google.com search for:Mercedes W123 Door Striker adjustment.

vwnate1 · #22 12-01-2020, 05:15 PM

You install the striker and lightly snug two screws, sit on a mile crate or kneel (young folks) next to the door so you can peer in at the striker and latch, slowly close the door but by bit, adjust the striker as necessary so the pointer enters the round hole as centrally as possible ~ once this is done, open the door wide and tighten two striker screws diagonally, try to close the door .

If it shuts and latches, you're golden, carefully open it and tighten all four screws as tight as you can .

If not, try again ~ it takes a little practice and looking in with your eyes level with the latch point and striker is critical .

Yes, the striker has plenty of movement up, down, in and out .

The trick is to get it Just So then close (not slam) the door to test the alignment but not shift the striker .

martureo · #23 12-02-2020, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

The Bolts are 8mm x 1.25 x 16mm long (the threaded area)

I did a google image search for : 8mm 1.25 flat head screws

There is allen head, Torx and phillips head bolts/screws of the same design. Different finishes and they also have A2 stainless steel. If I remember correctly some knife makers use A2 stainless and it can be hardened or otherwise heat treated.

I am wondering if the Torx head ones would be the best way to go as far as removing the later on.

16mm long means the threaded area. I mention that because for some reason at the local industrial hardware they seemed to be using the overall length.

I bought 4 flat head allen head bolts for 80 cents each ant the threaded area was 15mm but on the label on the bin it said 20mm? which I am guessing represents the total length of the screw/bolt. Black phosphate and the allen head socket in the screw/bolt was slightly deeper.
I am going to make sure never-seize gets under the head as well as the threads hoping it will make it easier to get them out the next time.

They also had A2 stainless ones at $1.25 each.

Do not use stainless. The thread plate that these thread into is made of carbon steel. With any moisture in the environment it will cause galvanic corrosion between the stainless bolt and the thread plate, making it really hard to remove.

Never seize is a great idea.

If you want the exact screw as from the factory its as you said a "M8x1.25x16mm socket head oval screw."

I think one of the best coatings that I've seen is a PVC coating from GM, but its hard to find. GM7114M.

dogguy · #24 12-02-2020, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martureo

Do no use stainless. The thread plate that these thread into is made of carbon steel. With any moisture in the environment it will cause galvanic corrosion between the stainless bolt and the thread plate, making it really hard to remove.

Wisdom such as this is priceless. Love it.
Always something new to learn.

Thanks for sharing this information.

gottarollwithit · #25 12-03-2020, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

You install the striker and lightly snug two screws, sit on a mile crate or kneel (young folks) next to the door so you can peer in at the striker and latch, slowly close the door but by bit, adjust the striker as necessary so the pointer enters the round hole as centrally as possible ~ once this is done, open the door wide and tighten two striker screws diagonally, try to close the door .

If it shuts and latches, you're golden, carefully open it and tighten all four screws as tight as you can .

If not, try again ~ it takes a little practice and looking in with your eyes level with the latch point and striker is critical .

Yes, the striker has plenty of movement up, down, in and out .

The trick is to get it Just So then close (not slam) the door to test the alignment but not shift the striker .

Yes, I’ve done all of this. Not sure how D911 is gonna do it, but just because it closes and latches, doesn’t make it “right”. Plus, not all of the rubber bushings inside of the strike plate are created equally. I’ve adjusted mine many times using cheap bushings, but it still won’t close and seal like the original MBZ strike plate. For such a simple part, I could never figure out the cause. JY bushings are probably better than new Chinesium in this case

Diesel911 · #26 12-03-2020, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gottarollwithit

Yes, I’ve done all of this. Not sure how D911 is gonna do it, but just because it closes and latches, doesn’t make it “right”. Plus, not all of the rubber bushings inside of the strike plate are created equally. I’ve adjusted mine many times using cheap bushings, but it still won’t close and seal like the original MBZ strike plate. For such a simple part, I could never figure out the cause. JY bushings are probably better than new Chinesium in this case

My Car was involved in a hit and run on that side and the rear door is a used replacement door. Also for right not slamming closed and it stays locked will have to do as I have pulled the alternator off to replace a noisy bearing and found the slip ring was pretty bad.
Now it is sitting in the drive way waiting for a new slip ring to arrive. Door adjustment is going to have to wait.

Also the one in the thread is the original door striker that was on the car when I bought it.

SonnyMorrow · #27 12-04-2020, 03:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

You install the striker and lightly snug two screws, sit on a mile crate or kneel (young folks) next to the door so you can peer in at the striker and latch, slowly close the door but by bit, adjust the striker as necessary so the pointer enters the round hole as centrally as possible ~ once this is done, open the door wide and tighten two striker screws diagonally, try to close the door .

If it shuts and latches, you're golden, carefully open it and tighten all four screws as tight as you can .

If not, try again ~ it takes a little practice and looking in with your eyes level with the latch point and striker is critical .

Yes, the striker has plenty of movement up, down, in and out .

The trick is to get it Just So then close (not slam) the door to test the alignment but not shift the striker .

This is what I've done in the past and it is certainly trial and error and works. Another forum member a long time ago posted a little trick in that you tape the hole flat with any kind of tape. Then with some red lipstick, you put a tiny bit on the "pointer" and just barely shut the door to where it will contact the tape. Then you will see a reference of where your "pointer" is in relation to the striker, (rather where your striker is in relation to the pointer). This can help a lot. Either way, it's going to be a lot of repeated unbolting rebolting etc.

Thought I'd recirculate the tip, pun intended.

BirthdayBenz · #28 12-04-2020, 06:22 AM

For replacement automotive fasteners check out McMaster-Carr

https://www.mcmaster.com/bolts/head-type~flat/flat-head-screws/alloy-steel-hex-drive-flat-head-screws/

I've bought some shims and such from them.

MS Fowler · #29 12-04-2020, 07:24 AM

What models and years of Mercedes use that same fastener? I plan a visit to my local Automotive Recycling Center with a 5mm hex wrench and mine a few of the screws. W126s are becoming rare, but there are a number of newer Benzes. Which ones can i use?

MS Fowler · #30 12-04-2020, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SonnyMorrow

This is what I've done in the past and it is certainly trial and error and works. Another forum member a long time ago posted a little trick in that you tape the hole flat with any kind of tape. Then with some red lipstick, you put a tiny bit on the "pointer" and just barely shut the door to where it will contact the tape. Then you will see a reference of where your "pointer" is in relation to the striker, (rather where your striker is in relation to the pointer). This can help a lot. Either way, it's going to be a lot of repeated unbolting rebolting etc.

Thought I'd recirculate the tip, pun intended.

GREAT tip.
Must I use Red lipstick??