could be. you could try moving it in the other direction.

It's something you need to solve before cranking it with a starter

Correct! Already removed the chain tensioner guide and made sure there weren't any stuck chain links down there, everything seems to be correct but still get binding in both directions. The crankshaft can be moved maybe 30° in each direction before stopping.

I'll remove rocker arms tomorrow to confirm if a valve is touching a piston or if there is something else generating the binding.

Seems weird the only thing that changed before this was the harmonic balancer 180° but will confirm tomorrow morning.

Have a great night!

Hi everyone!

So managed to remove the rocker assemblies and now te engine spins freely and happily.

The question is: can there be so much stretch on the chain that will cause interference with valves / pistons even though the engine "ran" before the repairs?

I'll check with the 2mm method later to determine the stretch and go from there.

Hi guys! So a few updates, hope you can chime in.

Retimed crankshaft with camshaft, OT at the bottom and cam tower with camshaft sprocket mark (spacer mark).
Installed injection pump at 24°BTDC on compression stroke.

Have been bleeding the system like crazy and every time I push the lift pump (new, black version) I see a whole lot of air traveling from the lift pump to the fuel filter through the clear line.

The in-line filter will be half full and then empty itself with air bubbles coming out from the fuel tank whenever I pump.

What I did is connect a pressurized reservoir directly to the filter and bypass the truck fuel tank (plugged off the line from the tank to the engine) and the engine almost starts or starts briefly and stops.

Hope this information helps to get new ideas!

I really appreciate the help.

Thanks guys!

Just use a jar full of fuel with the supply and return line placed into it. Then watch to see if air is coming out of the return line.

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92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

Hello guys! Long time no see, been working on and off and have some new information to share.

So decided to fabricate a tool for removing the prechamber for cylinder #1 with an adapter and slide hammer and finally got it off.

Already confirmed that piston is at TDC on compression stroke and wanted to redo the 2mm lift method but came to a stop because I lack the correct information.

Currently have the complete repair manual for 617.950 but the engine in question is a 617.931 with the number 11 stamped on the back on the camshaft and I'm unable to locate the information for how much degrees ATDC the intake valve is supposed to start opening on this one.

Does anyone have this information that could kindly list it on this thread?

I would really appreciate it.

I attached photos of the tool made for removing the prechamber .


Thanks in advance to all members!

Attached Thumbnails

       

Hi guys, I'm back here to share some news about the situation at hand.

Already confirmed timing for intake valve opening using 11° ATDC with the 2mm method and confirmed it with the OT and camshaft tower markings and they are both spot on. Ended using a 6.5° woodruff key on the camshaft to compensate for chain stretch.

Removed and reinstalled the IP using the marking on the sprocket to the housing, bleeded until the hard lines at the injectors started leaking fuel.

Also I'm running the fuel delivery and return lines into the same fuel container and when pushing the lift pump I can hear a buzzing sound on the IP meaning the relief valve is opening.

Cranked again and still not starting haha.

This thing is driving me crazy!!!

Can someone chime in on this? I really appreciate it.

Cheers!

Are your glow plugs working?

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92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

Later, once you get it running, I'd say you should roll in a new timing chain, given the wear you've got in the old chain. Most people replace them at 4-5 degrees of stretch.




Did you set the injection pump timing? Simply inserting based on the marking should get you into the ball park, but you need to actually time the pump using either the drip method or the bubble method or something. Timing doesn't have to be perfect to get the engine to fire, but it helps to have it pretty darn close. Does this IP have the timing light port on the side?


Once you get the IP timing set, plug in the block heater for 60 minutes and then hold the accelerator pedal to the floor and crank away.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Do a compression/leakdown test since I think you did crank the engine when everything was set with the crank 180 off right?

Also a fuel pressure test is not a bad idea

Hello there!
What has been done so far was replacing them with brand new ones and checked the wiring harness for approximately 12V with key on and it´s pretty much spot on.

12V will go into the glow plug relay and come out onto each GP. The wiring harness is ok between each GP also.

Removed one GP with the wiring harness still attached, grounded the body and set the key on and it will glow as it should, maybe once everything is installed there is a bad ground somewhere that we're missing.

That indeed will do once it does run haha.

About the injection pump timing made a tool to gently block the camshaft inside so it won't move from the markings when installing it because it doesn't have the setup where it can be blocked using the special tool, the camshaft doesn't have the tang either.

After installing it did the drip method and set it up to 1 drip per second at 24° BTDC using the kit from Bergsma.

This about the block heater seems really interesting, I'm assuming it is the component between cylinders #2 and #3 that shares the same wiring harness route as the GP right?

Should I put 12V directly to it for one hour so the block can be heated and aid in starting?
Will do it ASAP

Hi christuna!

When there was doubt about the harmonic balancer being 180° off we did removed it to check the position and before cranking with the starter did a manual crank and it would indeed bind so we reversed everything.
Nevertheless I just bought a compression tester kit to check how healthy the engine is with the stretched chain.

I'm working on the special tooling to do the fuel pressure test properly and once it's done I'll share the details with you guys.

Thank you very much!

So figured out this particular engine doesn't have a block heater haha. It's the coolant temperature sensor I was confusing.

I'm noticing after cranking for a bit that there is grayish/white smoke starting to exit the exhaust.

Is this unburnt fuel?

Can you connect a test light to any glow plug and ground to verify that the GP relay is working. Yes grey white smoke is unburnt fuel.

__________________
92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10