|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Rolling a new Chain 300SDL
Hello was hoping to get some tips before i tackle the job. I know i will
Need the crimping tool, as far as I understand, take valve cover off, zip tie or vice grip each side before cutting the chain so it doesnt fall in, attach new chain and roll it thru by turning the 27mm nut on crankshaft pulley, then reattach. Do i leave the tensioner in while rolling the new chain and then remove once rolled in to attach it? What timing mark should it be at when you start. Any guidance much appreciated. Thanks |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I'm also doing this soon and AFAIK timing mark doesn't matter, because you're cutting the old chain
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
For giggles, I’d put the motor at TDC1 and paint mark the chain and pulley.
I’d leave the tensioner in, but pull the spring out. You’re off to a good start asking questions, but... What about the woodruff key??? How do you know which one to use? What’s your plan if you lose engine timing, like if you somehow drop the chain in the motor, skip a tooth, etc...?? Theoretically you just cut the old chain, link the new one to it, then draw it through with the crank til the new chain gets to your TDC paint mark |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Rollin a new Chain
Well to prevent anything from dropping into the engine, i plan to stuff n lay blue shop towels in the cavities... even thought about having 2 long magnets to grab anything that should fall. I will have my brother in law an his Pops along to help me so ill have 6 hands available to hopefully prevent any skipping or chain becoming loose, i did buy the PDF from Kent B on rolling a chain but its for a 617 engine so gave me a good idea of what to expect but any tips from anyone who has done the job would be appreciated. As far as woodruff key isnt that to be changed only if you mess with the timing? Any recommendations on renting the chain crimper? Aut o zone? O reily ? Or doesnt really matter
Thanks |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
There is no woodruff key on the 60x engines. The timing is fixed permanently with a dowel on camshaft face.
You will need to remove the vacuum pump to roll a chain. The spring is extremely strong on it and will cause the chain to jerk as you rotate the engine (ask me how I know).
__________________
Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Good call on not being a 617 motor. Sorry!
Are you gonna peen it with the hammer method or use a rivet tool? |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I'll do it under mechanic's supervision with proper crimping tool. Otherwise, there's the ABN Chain breaking tool for $20 on ebay that works well |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Any other Tips or advice would be appreciated, going to take the Dive on Friday. Any place to rent a crimper that has a better tool or most of them the same?
When connecting the old chain to the new one, after i grind the edges , hammer the pin out then connect the new chain an reinsert that old pin an then start running her through. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Do not use the HF crimper!!
__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014 79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022 |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
That applies ONLY to timing the injection pump. There is no adjustment for the base mechanical timing of the engine. The cam is non-adjustable, nor is the sprocket on the crankshaft. When the chain stretches, it has to be replaced. There is no "fudging it" with an offset woodruff key like on the 61x engines.
__________________
Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Does anyone know where i could rent a crimping tool? Aut 0 Zone said they disnt have it
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Other than from a local foreign car repair shop being willing to rent a crimper with a hefty deposit it will be difficult to find one. IMO, there is no chance of getting one from a chain store loaner tool program.
Some members of this site did rent the tool through the mail. I've not replaced a chain on that motor. Someone chime in, is a clip type link available for this engine? Good luck!!!
__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I was referring to having unbolt the vacuum pump in order to rotate the engine. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Look in the tool rental forum on this site. It is very inactive, if you find someone that rents the crimper, PM AND e-mail them.
__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Turning over engine
Hey all, got on the Job early. Should i be able to turn over the engine fairly easily? When i turned it to get it to TDC i used a breaker bar an turned easy, i heard like air release. Then i got a small ratchet an with a little force she turned until i lined it up? I just took the valve cover off an fan and belt at this point and wanted to see where it was at at TDC.
My chain is showing its 2 degrees before TDC , the chain does show signs of it’s hitting possibly somewhere , on the outer side i guess you can say it’s slightly scuffed i think. |
Bookmarks |
|
|