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#16
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Quote:
Look at one of the threads where the pin had to be ground off in order to get the Steering Colum Lock out of the tube like mount. there may be pics of the mount there.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#17
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There is a thumbnail in post #7 from under the Dashboard that shows how the Steering Colum is mounted. The yellow arrow points to the pin that needs to be depressed and or drilled/ground out to get the steering Colum Lock out of the tublike mount.
Unfortunately the pic is kind of dark. 1984 7 pin Ignition switch with column lock
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#18
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Quote:
Why wouldn't the resistance in the plate to which you refer operate in both directions? As it is, when I finish twisting the key it move back to the position just before.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#19
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Quote:
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Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#20
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In the attached pic is my old steering column lock. The spring on the far right is the one that your key, tumbler and the other part in the middle turns against.
The part that is in the center also has a spring loaded detent. On mine that was cracked.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#21
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Quote:
Might have been 10 years ago when I took it apart on my 1984 300D to find the broken pieces which were jamming the key turning. It is an axial spring which applies a force in a radial direction to the rotating shaft. It is not oriented axially with the steering lock rod.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#22
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This could be good news for me. Will explain after I investigate.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#23
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W123/126 Ingnition Lock Service
? Is there a tutorial on how to remove the little electric key buzzer switch ? .
I broke it when replacing my 300CD's worn out lock and key cylinder, I now have a spare lock assembly complete with key and I'd like to find out how to remove that delicate little switch without damaging it..... TIA,.
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#24
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Quote:
If you look closely at the bottom of each end of the switch you will find that under one side there is a channel in the metal. looking through that channel you need to rotate the switch till the switch plunger is all the way up. Unseen on the sides of the switch is little plastic rounded hooks made of the same plastic material as the switch body. What I think would work best to depress those hooks is the old cheap black or brown bobby pins made with flat wire. You need to grease the end up good and shove one of the straight parts on each side of the switch (do that from the side where the electrical connector goes) and the switch is supposed to slide out on the side where you can see the channel under the switch. The dial up internet I am on does not allow me to post pictures any more.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#25
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#26
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Dang Key Buzzer Switch
THANK YOU ! .
It took me a while to find another complete lock cylinder with key and all, I broke my #8 switch and now have a spare and will print this out (I made up a cheat sheet with pictures and the written description) and put it in my files, I have much to do.... .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#27
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When it rains it pours. Now the switch sometimes balks at going from position one to two. I was worried it was getting in the danger zone so I took the tumblers out of my SDL, not yet headed for the boneyard, about two years old - the whole works - and pretty smooth, Was a bee-awtch to get those suckers out. FINALLY I found and compressed the springy-dingy.
And then I could not get it out of my 300D for love or money. So I looked it over close and it's not that bad. Just need to jiggle it a bit to get it over the detent for position two. I once had some of that lube that the Kent who shall not be linked distributes, supposedly ideal for tumbler cartridges. Can't find it now. I've heard that WD40 is a mistake to spray into the key slot. I'm wondering if some of Kent's brew injected with big needled into the tumblers might provide some relief.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#28
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Lock Cylinders
WD-40 is a solvent, not a lubricant so it *may* quickly loosen things up it promotes rapid wear and attracts dust and dirt same as oils .
Lock cylinders are all designed to use dry lubricants, graphite etc . Once an old lock gets dirty adding more lubricant tends to make things worse . I don't mind taking the serviceable locks apart, cleaning all the bits them matching the correct 'dog' or 'leaf' to the key at hand, re assemble and lube with graphite . Recently I struggled with a non serviceable key lock and wound up cleaning it by flushing out an amazing amount of dirt and old gummy oils, then I lubed it properly and it worked O.K. in spite of being very badly worn from two decades of others forcing the stiff key into it .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#29
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Kent used some stuff that looked like vasoline only thicker. I had some graphite spray once, maybe I can find it.
Good Lord this stuff frustrates me sometimes. I've taken many a lock cylinder out with the push pen method, but none of those were Mercedes. Kent refers to a technique of rendering the locking in with that raised bit non-functional. I tried it, was not ideal. At this point I'd be happy to disable the steering wheel lock and the need to remove the lock cylinder with the push pen. Who in the hell is going to know that such a Benz would be slightly easier to steal than other 30+ year old Benzes? I mean, yes, in the mid to late 80s, my 300D would have been an attractive theft target. No longer. I'll go further: the aftermarket product that is needed now is a part that provides the stuctural support of the steering wheel lock assembly but w/o the lock part. And a tumbler cartridge that can be removed without an act of God. My 300D cartridge is about 2 years old and I could not get the damned thing out. Might have to take it to seasoned pros for that. Perhaps buying the Febi cheapy is a mistake.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#30
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I feel your pain....
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
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