AMEN.......my point exactly.....

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

Something like that would work, the $64,000 question though is how and where would you plumb it into the system?

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

Somewhere between the low mark on the dipstick and the oil pump suction. If you took the lower pan off you would probably see both and could measure off of the flange and then mark it on the lower pan.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Yes, you are correct. It has been some years now since I removed an oil pan on a 617.952 and your explanantion brought back the visual memories for me. That would cover it. Thank you for the clarification.

I'm thinking port 23 in the diagram

or tap the case itself in a "pressure positive" area
above the "B" port

To my way of thinking, port 23 would be the least invasive location and would require finding an appropriate "T" that would provide a female port for the pressure gauge line and a port, male or female, for the appropriate sensor like Diesel911 used.

Port 23 looks like it would be perfect. Now as others have asked, is there a sensor available that would provide both a pressure reading for the mechanical dashboard gauge and an appropriate electrical signal for a warning light, or a "T" fitting as 5cylinder mentioned above?

Otherwise in a pinch Diesel911's solution of tapping the oil filter lid for a pressure switch would work. Does anyone know if he ever found a decent source of +12v only when the key is in the run position?

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

If you drill the Oil Filter Cap/Lid be aware that there is casting ribs you need to avoid drilling through. So plan where you are going to drill.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

or even better have the sensor activate a vacuum switch that would activate the shutoff automatically.

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1977 240D auto w/OM616.916 engine
2005 Matrix 5spd
2006 Prius

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AdP7i8xfCJeFuk5y9

glass pendant necklace http://glasspendantnecklace.com

fused glass pendant http://fusedglasspendant.com

For a sensor, I would be using something along the lines of what Diesel911 showed in post #1 of this thread:
Low oil pressure alarm for 617.952
I would thread it into the aforementioned "T" fitting (if I found a suitable one).

It seems to me that post #9 of the above thread has a brilliant method for supplying power though with this caveat: I have not validated it against the wiring schematic for my vehicle.

I believe you'd have to engineer one. Not too difficult, but not as simple as buying something ready made.

Another easy solution, although not truly a sensor - put a metal strip under the oil pressure needle, and drill two metal contacts at the "1" level , spaced 1mm apart. The needle will close the circuit crossing that level and sound the alarm. Ugly, but simplest.

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*** I can unlock your Becker 754/780/1492, add aux/bluetooth...

Generally, I think the best prevention of a mishap is tending to the root cause by checking your dipstick and oil cooler lines every week or so.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

This is a topic on my mind lately. The coolant reservoir tank on my 300D (1984) was leaking about six months ago, and as many of you know, the replacement is a perfect fit, but it’s for later model cars that had a coolant reservoir level sensor. One needs to buy a plug in order to use it on a 123. I thought why not buy the sensor instead, as it also plugs the hole and I’d have the option to install a light and audible alarm.

I haven’t done it yet, need to get on that. I’ve found some aftermarket audible alarm kits for a more thorough monitoring of temperature. Before I buy one I want to research it pretty well so that I know whether or not I can find the correct wire under the dash to attach to it.

Worse comes to worse, I could just find the senders on the engine and send a new wire through the firewall and attach the alarm at the bottom of the dash. I think. What I don’t know is if the amperage sent by the senders is sufficient to be tapped into for such extra extra-curricular activities.

I almost lost my SDL in fall ‘19 when the radiator blew. I had thought that I noticed the coolant reservoir light blink on. At which point I looked at the temperature gauge and it was just entering the red zone IIRC. But I’m not sure, the light may have been on for 20 seconds, one minute, who knows. When I popped the hood, steam was everywhere, better than black smoke anyway. That engine recently did a belly up, perhaps delayed reaction, the symptoms were cracked head or blown gasket. A good mechanic, a 603 aficionado who fixes some of the things that I can’t fix found a low miles 603, got it, the tranny, and the driveline.

I went for it in large part because my existing tranny was leaking bad and I think had sustained some damage over the years. It was leaking when I got it, God only knows what the previous owner did as far as timely topping off. Will be complete one of these days soon. I want to make sure no disasters happen with this motor. It has the benefit of the all aluminum radiator, which I suspect is superior to the original OEM unit.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

True enough. When I got my 300D, found it at the indie garage in Eugene, Oregon where my SDL was towed after the above calamity, the oil cooler lines were leaking a bit at the radiator. A bit too much actually. He who shall not be linked said that they should be replaced at any sign of leakage, as if they fail, you will pump the oil out quicker than you know what hit you.

It was a slightly challenging job. I survived somehow. I did loudly say a few naughty words/sentences that included the words Mercedes Benz.

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Is the OEM oil cooler brass?

If so an extreme option is the pull the oil cooler
and have a competent radiator craftsman drill and braze the tank
for both a pressure port and a temp port of the desired
fitting dimensions.

If it's aluminum it has to be tig / mig welded.