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  #1  
Old 07-27-2021, 02:06 PM
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How long for 606 to prime its fuel system?

After disassembly and removal of the fuel lines, delivery valves, and it generally sitting for a while, how long does it take for the fuel system to reprime itself? People have told me I don't need to crack the lines loose at the injector to purge the air as it'll self purge but I've been cranking on it 5 or 6 times for 10-12 seconds and the engine sounds different when turning over than it did before, even when I had accidentally ran it out of fuel.

When I watched Diesel Mercedes' video on doing the fuel delivery valves on his slightly older model engine, his pump was still full of fuel when changing out the crush washers and o-rings. When I did the delivery valves on mine, they were pretty much bone dry. The only fuel that I can see in any of the lines is a small amount in the shortest hose that connects to the little pump on the side of the pump (but that was there before I even tried to start it) and on the longer hose that has the banjo fitting, there is a little fuel in the end down by the banjo fitting.

Does it just sound different because there is absolutely zero fuel being pumped in and it's all air or what? I only cranked a handful of times because of the different sound and not really seeing any fuel running through the lines. I just wanted to check in and see if this is normal. I remember when I changed the fuel filters last year, I had no fuel in the big canister filter and the car wouldn't start at all, but when I poured a little into it from the old one before I threw it away, it fired right up.

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  #2  
Old 07-27-2021, 03:05 PM
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When I did my 603, I want to say I cranked all of 5-6 seconds before she fired, then ran like crap for 30 seconds, then it ran strange for about 100 miles before settling in and smoothing out the lumpy idle that I had.
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  #3  
Old 07-27-2021, 04:03 PM
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Wish I could be so lucky. However, after finally getting the intake to bolt up to the intercooler pipe AND egr finally and cranking every few minutes between that and checking the oil level after the oil change, it's pushing fuel up through the lines. Most of the lines are full now with only a couple empty or half full so it's slowly pushing the air out. With a bit more charging, I think I'll be able to get it to crank tonight or tomorrow morning. Let's cross our fingers!
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  #4  
Old 07-27-2021, 06:50 PM
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Don't be surprised to have to charge the battery at least once. Loosen connection at injector and once you have fuel coming out of that one snug it down and move to the next. Once you have two or three snugged down it should crank with a full glow cycle.
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  #5  
Old 07-28-2021, 03:19 AM
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Remove the return line at the bulkhead where the rubber joins the steel line, smaller line is the return. Put a suction device Pela or Sealey engine oil suction remover on the line and draw fuel through the system with the ignition on to open the shut off solenoid.
One advantage of doing this is to also see any air getting drawn into loose pipe fittings as a heavy suction will show them up.
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  #6  
Old 07-28-2021, 08:52 AM
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This is the best advice. The labyrinth of fuel lines on the 606 is a pain to get purged.
Also if you changed the fuel filter and did not pre-fill it with clean diesel or Diesel Purge then it will take *forever* to fill it back up by cranking.

Introduce the fluid through the big threaded bolt hole in the center with a clean funnel (you are past the filter so be clean). I would slip a shim below the filter and with the bolt removed carefully pour the fuel/purge into the center of the filter. Then close up the big bolt.

Note that there are two things in play.

One is the low pressure side which is best purged by sucking on the return as stated above.

The other is the high pressure side. If you opened any of the high pressure lines then you likely have an air pocket in the line when you reconnected it. The injector pump pushes out a high pressure pulse through the fuel in the line. This pressure is created at the delivery valve and depends on a solidly filled fuel line to open the nozzle at the injector.

If you have an air pocket in the high pressure line the pressure pulse will hit the air pocket which will absorb the pulse and as a result the nozzle won’t open at the injector.

This is why you have to ‘crack the lines’ when restarting a mechanically injected engine.

To do this have a 14 mm wrench in hand. Put a paper towel below each injector to catch the drips. Loosen each nut at the injector about a turn or so. Put on eye protection.

Have a helper crank the engine and watch the injectors. At first fuel will spurt out from the connection and eventually will become more uniform. As this happens start closing down the nuts, after you get a couple of them closed the engine will begin to fire. Once they are all flowing shut down the engine and close up all the nuts and you should be good to go.
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  #7  
Old 07-28-2021, 12:37 PM
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After more cranking and yet more again, still no dice. I disconnected the return line, put my vacuum pump to it and started pumping, and I could see fuel moving through the plastic lines I replaced and a little coming into the lines of the pump, but as soon as I stopped, the lines started draining again. There is fuel in the spin on filter but still, it still isn't trying to fire and I have no one here to help me crack the lines at the injectors and try to purge air that way. I'm getting beyond frustrated with this damn car.
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  #8  
Old 07-28-2021, 12:50 PM
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About 10 sec of running the electric fuel pump below the tank before cranking, then instant start, smooth idle.
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  #9  
Old 07-28-2021, 02:14 PM
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The W210/OM606 has no in tank fuel pump (same as the 123/124/126) just the lift pump at the injector pump. And it’s midway through the maze of hoses up front at the IP.

The later models (W211/OM648 or W211/OM642 or W164/OM642) and the 212/166 and later chassis do have the in tank pump.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Last edited by jay_bob; 07-28-2021 at 02:26 PM.
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  #10  
Old 07-28-2021, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
The W210/OM606 has no in tank fuel pump (same as the 123/124/126) just the lift pump at the injector pump. And it’s midway through the maze of hoses up front at the IP.

The later models (W211/OM648 or W211/OM642 or W164/OM642) and the 212/166 and later chassis do have the in tank pump.
I know, the point is to add one.
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  #11  
Old 07-28-2021, 03:15 PM
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Agreed. But that wasn’t clear in your post. The OP is brand new to this vehicle platform and I didn’t want him searching for a pump that isn’t there…
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #12  
Old 07-28-2021, 04:18 PM
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I cracked all 6 connectors loose at the injector and cranked it over twice for 15 or so seconds. Doesn't look like a single drip came out on any of the injectors.
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  #13  
Old 07-29-2021, 11:24 AM
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If this is a W210 - seems like your shutoff solenoid is not allowing fuel or somehow the fuel has drained off (bad check valve in return line)

If this is a W124 - its the check valve at the fuel return which is allowing siphoning due it being stuck.
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  #14  
Old 07-29-2021, 12:20 PM
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It's a 99 e300, so 210. I replaced the shutoff valve with a new one as I suspect that's what was leaking before all this and causing the car to lose prime/not start or run for long when it did start. Is there a way to test the connectors electrically to make sure I didn't just get a bad unit?
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  #15  
Old 07-29-2021, 12:43 PM
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Have you run the battery down at least once? If not go thru couple battery charge, try again sequences with all lines loose at injector end. Once you see seepage you can snug that one down and then next, etc. Will start at #6 first then come forward. On a healthy engine they will start once 3 or 4 lines snugged down. Let me know what you want for car if you can't get it to run and there is no rust. Thanks

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