My 300TD starts great and runs great till I shut it off, and then it wont start at all unless I wait 20-30 minutes.
Also, if at times I did get it started early by forcing it, I then had very low power.

Glow system is new-plugs, new, controller new.

Fuel filters clean.

battery, and alternator new.

Air bled from injector pump, even without doing that, engine runs great if I
wait, like it never had an issue.

I've disconnected vacuum lines, to shut off at injector pump, then put them back and tried to re-start, but it still makes me wait.

No clear fuel lines yet, but will add those to see if I see air in the lines. But, wouldn't air stay? Why would it re-start like nothing happened? If air was an issue, it seems I wouldn't be able to start it ever, until I bled the air out. Right?

Do I need to rebuild my injector pump? I am at a loss.

As we are all aware, the process of elimination is how we get down to the real cause of the problem. Here's an idea; perhaps you got a tank of diesel with water in it. This can cause real problems, I've had it happen at gas stations that don't sell a lot of diesel fuel although it can happen when you fill up ANYWHERE.

It is possible that when you try to re-start the car, water is getting picked up causing problems. After the car sits for 20 minutes or longer, the water has had time to settle to the bottom of the tank. Again, this is a theory but I've had this happen in my 25 years of operating a diesel MORE THAN ONCE.

Please read the following carefully, again this might not be the cause but I believe it is worth investigating. A good diesel algacide added to your fuel at fill up won't hurt anything, either. After you add algacide, you will need to change your fuel filters at least once maybe twice so be ready for that.

https://www.centretank.com/news/story/water-in-fuel-how-to-spot-problematic-contaminated-diesel-fuel-symptoms#.YQmYYFB7mzk

https://www.forconstructionpros.com/equipment/fleet-maintenance/article/10667628/water-in-diesel-fuel-can-wreak-havoc-in-engines

https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/water-in-fuel-wont-start.144975/

Us your stop leave all the way back up seconds after it stops?

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92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

Ck. for oil in vac. shut off pot. Also try leaving off vac. line to see if restarts.
Pop off throttle link at pump linkage.

Here is a simple test. Right after you shut it off, disconnect the rubber hose that comes from the fuel tank and connects to the clear plastic 90 degree fuel filter going to the injection pump. In its place, connect a rubber hose going to a 5 gallon can filled with fresh diesel. Try to start it and see what happens. If it starts up and has good power, then merc lover is correct, you have bad/water laden fuel in the tank. If not, well, we can go on from there.

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

All good info.
*My stop lever is where it should be all the time.

*I'll check for oil in the vacuum shut off pot. Is it possible it is sticking? I will start the car with it disconnected, and use the shut off lever to rule out the pot. I hope its that simple.

*I'll also get some good diesel and putting the feed line in to get good diesel primed thru the system. However I have had a bunch of tanks run through over the summer, and this has been going on a while, but just get worse. I am pretty sure my tank and diesel needs a polishing though. However fuel filters remain pretty clean, but its never been cleaned I bet.

Perhaps the screen in the tank is plugged up. I'm certainly not the person on this forum one should go to for help but I'm thinking,

1. Engine starts fine and runs ok until reducing RPM at which point it shuts down.

2. Won't start for 15+ minutes then starts and shuts down when RPM is reduced.

I'm wondering if sufficient fuel is delivered over time through a tank screen, the lift pump is forcing fuel through the screen during exciting times like acceleration then when RPM is reduced the stopped up screen returns to not allowing sufficient fuel to pass. It seems that situation might suggest air could enter the lines and which wouldn't happen if the screen were allowing fuel to flow freely.

Cleaning tank screens is a nasty and difficult job.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Clemson88: I thought the same, luckily its not the case. Had me thinking that, but I wondered why it could go for miles and miles without issue then be totally dead??

psaboic: I did what you suggested. Worked! Thank you!

That was the problem, the vacuum line to the shutoff pot on top of the injector pump still had vacuum going to it. When I disconnected it, I heard it release and hiss a bit. Now, I gotta see why vacuum is remaining in there for so long. I am pretty sure its the little vacuum line valve thing (getting stuck) prior to the Brake Power Booster.

Side note, yesterday when I opened the hood, I found the upper radiator hose just laying there disconnected from the radiator. I was like WHAT THE CRAP! Stressed! I thought I ran it like that. But didnt I must have put pressure on it at some point, and that coming up on 40 yr plastic gave way. I still had enough radiator to attach the hose to, but Ill be looking for a new radiator.

All, I appreciate all your helpful input! Thank you! I am glad I reached out.

Glad to be able to help you out in a small way, and thank you for letting us know the outcome. Too many people fix the problem and never say a peep about what solved the issue.

Looks like the next step is to drain the tank.....fairly easy to do, just disconnect the rubber outlet hose and drain into a jerry can or something else. What I would suggest is that after you drain the tank, pull the tank screen and clean it and replace the short length of rubber hose. These are "do it while I am in there" types of maintenance and draining the tank is half the job anyway, so.....

On a side note about the radiator.......Been there, except I busted off the nipple that the coolant overflow hose goes to and put a crack in the connection for the upper hose one time while doing some other maintenance.......best bet is to get a quality replacement. Fortunately replacing the radiator is not too hard and I would consider replacing the thermostat as well since the system will already be drained. Another "while you are in there" repair . Good luck!

__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

Oh Man, I will get to the tank in due time
Thanks again!
You all have fun fixing everything! I cant wait till all 7 of my cars are all fixed up and don't require anymore maintenance, or can be super rich and pay someone to do it all.

" I cant wait till all 7 of my cars are all fixed up and don't require anymore maintenance, or can be super rich and pay someone to do it all. "

I'm still waiting for this, don't hold your breath .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I'm working on now. Some people need pills to work on a car, I need pill when I don't have a car to work on.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Ck. the shut off vac. pot and lines for oil plus the shut off vac. valve located at key housing. Can clean lines with(brake cleaner), disconnect vac, line at source and at
shut off pot,leave key in off position spray till clean,Blow out lines.
If rubber hoses are swollen replace,at key shut off also.
Replace vac.shut off pot,Ck to see warnings before doing so.

Could be in the area mentioned.
After stopping the Engine disconnect the vacuum line from the Vacuum Shutoff on the Fuel Injection Pump. If it starts fine after that your issue is likely the vacuum shutoff on the Steering Column Lock not allowing the Vacuum to bleed off or some other obstruction like the mentioned oil.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I hear you loud and clear .

Getting old and broken sux .

FWIW : any vacuum hose you can pull off easily without twisting, is BAD , leaks vacuum and needs replacing A.S.A.P. .

The brown plastic pipes are the engine shut off circuit .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better