Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to change the bushings
(inner and outer) on the upper control arm( front -both sides).
Do I need to put the car on lift or a jack is enough. Also MB manual says jack up the car from the front center. Now where would I put the jack on the center. Will the front center of the Chasis will hold the weight of the engine and car when jacked up.

Most importantly How bad is actual job of taking apart the upper control arm.( I guess I will have to remove it completely to replace the bushings) I already have the bushings.

I just need some words of encouragement. And if its a real dificult job please tell me so. I am pretty handy with cars. I have a ball joint puller to separate the upper control arm.

Please any thoughts.


MVK

__________________
One penny saved is three penny earned.

1985 300D Turbo 179,000miles

You can jack the car up on the center of the front frame, it is designed for this.

Please get some good, heavy jack stands and set the car down on them, then shake the hell out of it before you start on the control arms.

The CD will take you from there -- we've done any number of other front ends, but never a W123. I think you will need to jack up the lower control arm, then remove the ball joint and then lower the control arm to relieve the compression on the spring -- this is true of the W115 chassis, anyway.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks Peter. I will wait until weather gets a bit cooler here in NY.
I will let you guys know how it goes. More suggestions from other members are also welcomed.

MVK

__________________
One penny saved is three penny earned.

1985 300D Turbo 179,000miles

I just wanted to point out that with the shock attached, the spring cannot extend enough to seperate the arm. You will need to pry it UP a bit to get it off. I just did four of these in the last month and by the forth one it only took about a 1/2 hour. Put lots of soap or KY on the bushings to slide them in as much as possible. The only other thing that came in handy was a large "C" clamp to draw the sway bar in when re-assembling.

Enjoy the ride when your done!

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83 300TDT BROWNBENZ
04 Sprinter

Don't worry very simple and straightforward job!

All you need is the car jack and a splitter. no need to raise the car at all, you can do the whole job with it standing on level ground.

1) remove wheel and lower again onto block support under lower control arm (NB! car must be level so that roll bar is not loaded)

2) Loosen ball joint nut until FINGER tight and then split. If nut is tight after splitting jack the opposite side of car up a little and remove nut.(this will unload rollbar)

3)Remove rollbar nut washers and rubber. You may have to pry out the rubber carefully as they often stick to the arm.

3)Jack up the side you are working on untill taper is JUST clear.( I have never found it necessary to disconnect shock)

4)Remove inner bolt and arm can be removed.

5)Clean the bushing bore and pollish a small radius both sides as this can cut the bushings as you press them in. You should be able to press them in by hand when soaped.

6) Reassemble. If taper does not enter fully when you lower the car jack up opposite side until pushed right home. this will hold the joint while you tighten the self-lock nut.
Important! Tighten the bolt only after the wheel has been replaced and lowered onte ground.

Sould take about 30 min/side.

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Beagle

Thanks a lot Beagle, yellowmerc and Peter for your support. I feel much confident now may be I will do it by myself soon. Will let you know how it goes.

MVK

__________________
One penny saved is three penny earned.

1985 300D Turbo 179,000miles