W123 300TD Rear Hatch Locking Mechanism Grease? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

johnbob · #1 10-27-2021, 02:54 AM

Potentially stupid question, but...

I know mechanical parts need to be lubricated to keep them from wearing out but I'm always a bit confused about which type of grease to use for certain applications. In the past, before I got into cars, I always thought that there was a general grease that was used for most situations but when looking into it, it seems like there are a ton of different types for very specific applications.

I'm planning on replacing the rear hatch locking mechanism on my 300TD wagon and I know I'm supposed to lubricate it but can anyone tell me what type of grease I should use? For my door hinges I have been using the Oregon chainsaw grease gun. Someone suggested it to me and although it's marketed as grease for chainsaws, it has worked out great on my door hinges. Could I also use it for my rear hatch locking mechanism? Can I also use it for my door check straps?

Sugar Bear · #2 10-27-2021, 08:11 PM

There are many different lubricants, which lubricant is correct depends on the application. The application determines how important the correct lube is or is not, e.g., use grease instead of motor oil in an engine and it won't end well, use motor oil instead of grease on a door hinge and you probably won't know the difference.

In your situation the chainsaw grease would be fine for the hatch lock, check straps and the door hinges. Will the chainsaw grease dispenser force the grease into the dimple on the W123 door hinges?

Good luck!!!

barry12345 · #3 10-28-2021, 08:38 AM

If there are also plastic parts as part of any assembly I am going to lubricate. I avoid using petroleum based lubricants. They seem to deteriorate plastics.

I have no way of determining the actual type of plastic. So just make it a general rule. I am fairly sure that some plastics are not a problem.

Building up a good assortment of lubricants over time seems worthwhile as there are so many other things than cars we use them on. Many tools are a good example. Or bikes. Certain kids toys.

Some seem fairly expensive. If you keep your eyes open at military surplus type places and yard sales. You over time can build up a decent variety. As some lubricants are pricey.

When cars where new there where many things that were lubricated. After 40 years of neglect it probably takes almost a day to go over and redo them all. Again in my opinion if you like the car it is time well spent.

Especially on old Mercedes I like to put a booster shot of heavyweight oil into the rear outer boots. Today dealing with a failed outer CV joint because of failure to do this. While traveling is going to be a real pain. Usually failure will occur from the lack of lubrication.

The friction of the dry parts heats them and expands them and they start to make heavy metal to metal contact. It seem proven that if you catch them clicking very early and add some lubrication. All will be fine. Or just add some oil to avoid this ever occurring. Other than with boot failure. Cheap Chinese axles are not the same quality wise.

johnbob · #4 10-28-2021, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

Will the chainsaw grease dispenser force the grease into the dimple on the W123 door hinges?

Yes, perfectly!!! I usually use a small nail to poke the dimple first to make sure it is clean and clear and then I just put the tip of the grease gun right in the dimple and squeeze away. At first it might seem like nothing is happening but eventually you'll see the grease start seeping out of the hinge and that's when I stop. It's simple, it takes a few minutes to do all 4 doors.

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry12345

If there are also plastic parts as part of any assembly I am going to lubricate. I avoid using petroleum based lubricants. They seem to deteriorate plastics.

I have no way of determining the actual type of plastic. So just make it a general rule. I am fairly sure that some plastics are not a problem.

Building up a good assortment of lubricants over time seems worthwhile as there are so many other things than cars we use them on. Many tools are a good example. Or bikes. Certain kids toys.

Some seem fairly expensive. If you keep your eyes open at military surplus type places and yard sales. You over time can build up a decent variety. As some lubricants are pricey.

When cars where new there where many things that were lubricated. After 40 years of neglect it probably takes almost a day to go over and redo them all. Again in my opinion if you like the car it is time well spent.

Especially on old Mercedes I like to put a booster shot of heavyweight oil into the rear outer boots. Today dealing with a failed outer CV joint because of failure to do this. While traveling is going to be a real pain. Usually failure will occur from the lack of lubrication.

The friction of the dry parts heats them and expands them and they start to make heavy metal to metal contact. It seem proven that if you catch them clicking very early and add some lubrication. All will be fine. Or just add some oil to avoid this ever occurring. Other than with boot failure. Cheap Chinese axles are not the same quality wise.

Thanks for the head up!

Sugar Bear · #5 10-28-2021, 07:37 PM

Sounds like you are on top of the maintenance game. The front E brake cable can also be oiled...go inside the car, at the top of the E brake mechanism let drops of oil run down the inner cable periodically. This prevents the cable from seizing where it makes the tight bend to head rearward. Oil the hood hinge pivots regularly also.

Good luck!!!

JHZR2 · #6 10-28-2021, 08:39 PM

Check out super lube greases. Some folks recommend white lithium, but I’ve found it to dry out and generally not be great. Super lube has a few formulations, has compatability charts, and has PTFE in it which in this grease/application I’ve found to be good.

Ive also had good luck with the staying power and performance of crc clear spray grease. Others are messier, the clear stuff works great.

vwnate1 · #7 10-30-2021, 01:39 AM

I hope you're aware that Ma Benz has released a new one for the W123 T's .

It's actually exactly the same as the old one, after manufacturing it they over stamp one number, the very last one .

I installed one of these, cost me just over $100 and IMO well worth the co$t .

For latches in general you want long fiber grease .

As mentioned, military surplus rifle grease is most excellent and is fairly dust proof to boot .

I imagine the special M-B sun roof track grease would be good but it's $pendy stuff .

Let us know how it goes .