If you know the part number you can search with it on eBay and hope you find a seller that posts a pic with the bearings and box saying made in Germany. You also need to contact the Seller to be sure they did not just use some stock Photo and they are rally made in German.

SKS and FAG have at least some of their bearings made in German but the same bearing maker and bearing number can be made in other Countries. There is other euro countries for the SKS bearings like France and Italy.

I did a thread over on benzworld.org as you can post large pics without having to have another internet photo place to link to.
I bought 2 SWAG front wheel bearing and seal kits from an east European seller on eBay. It took close to a month to get here but I bought it as parts for the future or parts that if I did not need, I could sell.

W123 Front Wheel Bearing kits, Where the Bearings Might Be Made

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Note all of the brand name bearing companies sell several grades of bearings with the lowest grades being made in the PRC or India. Buying a brand name say Timken will not guarantee you a US, Japan or European made bearing.
If you are buying on line you need to be sure from the Seller where the bearings you are getting are made.

Going back to the bearing and race issue. Whell bearings normally come in sets but the bearing and the race usually have separate part numbers which you can often still see. The Roller Bearing Cones and the Roller Bearing Races are also sold severalty (I don't think you will find that in a typical auto parts store and buying say a bearing race separately from a bearing specialist place would likely cost more than a bearing and race set from an auto parts seller.).

Since when they make, they put together the wheel bearing sets they just pull the separate Bearings and Races from what stock is already made I don't see there being fitment issues if you just bought a race from the same bearing maker.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Some people won't want to hear this but in the repair industry this is what I have seen done to deal with loose bearing races and or loose bearings on a shaft.

One method was to use a special thick Loctite product made for that. You roughed up the bore the race was going into. Or the OD of shaft area with sand paper. Degreased it and the OD of the Race and the ID of the Bearing. (Any thing the Loctite was applied to needed to be degreased) Follow the directions on the Bottle.

The other methods require tools for the job. In the past they used to use a knurling tool for inside and especially shaft ODs. Knurling mushes the metal in a controlled fashion. It decreases the size of bores and increase the size of shafts. When the race or bearing pressed on or in, they self-center on the knurling.

The other method which I have seen done and done myself is you take a shape center punch and try to space your punch marks as evenly as possible around the bore or shaft.
It is better to use a lot of shallow Puch marks then a few deep ones.

Any of the methods can be used in conjunction with the mentioned special Loctite.

If the race or bearing goes in and you can feel that it is being held in but it went in or on easier than you would like you remove them and the typical red Loctite can be used (parts degreased) and if I remember correctly that is one of the uses the Red Loctite is made for.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Here's an American made Bower/BCA A3 : https://www.ebay.com/itm/164946878901?epid=215147375&hash=item266799a1b5:g9EAAOSwKvddWdlo

Just go search .

You're welcome .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better