My 1982 MB 300 SD has the brake bleeder valve stuck (not getting lose).
Other than using penetrating oil what are the other options?
I tried penetrating oil couple times but it still stuck.
Any other options?
Thanks

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Nyck - TX - USA

Heat the area around it with an ox/acc torch set. Quench with water. Do this three times and it will be loose. Break it off otherwise can get nasty.

I live in the rustbelt and this works every time. Extreme method for Texas but it does work. Some bleeders are so small we do not even try them before the heat cycles. Might work with less heat like a mapp torch there.

They usually sell containers where they sell normal propane cylinders for jobs like plumbing or camping equipment. Cylinders for small propane camping stoves. Others may have other suggestions for your area.

The three cycle event breaks the rust bond loose with the expansion and contraction. Now if you ever break one off . They will break off flush usually. there is a hole in them. Do the three heat cycles and use an easy out. As they are pretty much loose after the heating/quenching cycles. You are not likely to get the remains of a broken one out without the heat cycles.

Be certain to keep the applied torque straight on parallel to the threads i.e., lengthwise to the screw. Any torque toward the side and it will snap. If you have an old drill bit use it to fill the hole in the bleeder and use a deep socket

Barry's method is excellent, I'll add to it that striking the screw STRAIGHT on helps to shock the threads loose.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

If you live in an area where issues with brake bleeder screws are common. Take some high temperature grease and coat them.

Before that find the size of fuel line hose that fits snug over them. Cut small pieces and install them Put a dab of grease in the top. Next time the bleeders will loosen up easier. Also it stops the neck of the bleeder screw rusting and losing mass and strength.

Again depending on the area of the country you live in.

Use a goof fitting drill bit down the inside of the bleeder valve to give it strength, or it will shear off ..Lots of penetrating spray on it . I picked one of these up to do mine .Once its on the bleed valve to lock it up from the side .This little idea id very good for worn or rusty bleed valves .View next post .

This is the little gem

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As a professional Mechanic of 50 years I have encountered this many times. First spray with PB Blaster penetrating oil. It simply is the best let it sit for at least 15 minutes then slightly, ever so slightly, tighten the screw, yes I did say tighten the screw, if it moved it is now loose and can be loosened. I do not know why tightening first breaks them loose but believe me it does. I have personally done it many many times. Hope this helps.

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Retired
ASE Master Car / Light Truck
ASE Master Medium Heavy Truck
EVT Master Technician Ambulance
EVT Master Technician Fire Apparatus

"Without Fleet The Pride Doesn't Ride"

1983 300SD 609K + still going strong!
1970 Monte Carlo
1994 Ford F150

PB Blaster is for amateurs. Professionals use Kroil.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

I'm a firm believer in the acetone-atf blend. I call it "Dragon's blood".

You watch the video and decide for yourself.

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

The bleeder screw was already bottomed. When you applied more force it applied reverse force up the threads. Probably compressing the rust. If it moved at all that is one possibility. Even if it did not visably move. Compressing the rust at the top of the threads would also give a little room at the bottom of the threads as well. If you just try to back it out this action does not take place. But you are a working mechanic and have judgement when two much force it being used.

I have done some work on cars in the southern states, Here in the northern rust belt just is another world. Really badly stuck stuff is far more common. Experience really counts anyplace.

An example quite common is for car wheel rims to be rusted on so heavily. You have to really heat them up to break the rust bond. You have to use some force at least on most of them. A propane torch will handle most rims if that is all you have, You cannot beat on the rim or tire sidewall that heavily without risking damage, Most wheel lug tools that come with cars are not adaquate here either.

If you have a tire issue away from home. You take the lug bolts out but cannot get the rim off. Put the lug bolts back in leaving a little gap on the head of them. Drive the car a few feet and put the brakes on reasonably hard. Or try driving in a circle. I mention this because these things happen often in a rust belt area.I carry a power bar and socket for each car we have on the road. Having a tow truck driver coming to get a rim off is going to cost you sometimes.

When I worked in central Alabama. You initially loosened the bolt or whatever usually.. Then you could back them out by hand often. I will say this about Mercedes at least in the early days. Things seemed to come apart easier than a lot of other brands. Or it was just my perception.

I am not a professional mechanic so working on my own cars is actually relaxing. The human mind cannot deal well with two things at one time.

Sometimes it's just less of a hassle to get an entire reman caliper with a new bleeder.

On PelicanParts they sell rebuilt replacements for under $60 each. (+$45 core)

You have to verify what brand you have, but it looks like Ate, Bendix, and Girling are available on the site.

example:
Front Left Bendix
Right Rear ATE

-Matt

barry...been there with the seized wheels in the NE. Now we clean the hub surface where it contacts the wheel and the wheel with a wire brush then coat that contact area with a light film of grease before installation.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

I just got amazed about all these great replies.
I don't want to say that one is better than other because ALL of them are full of great information and some of them with information that I never heard before.
I also found fantastic the subject about the "seized ring" from "berry12345" and how to get the ring loosen. I had once that problem when a tire blew on a highway at 4:30 AM and my wheel will not come out from the axle. Not knowing this method I hit the wheel with the spare tire but it was not easy to come out. The barry12345 suggestion is much better for that situation.
Anyway, thanks everyone for all these great suggestion in how to lose the brake valve.

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Nyck - TX - USA

I use anti seize even though it is overkill perhaps. Remember I am just a hobby mechanic and thought grease might spread.

I have great respect for working mechanics. Have watched the changes in their field over the years. At eighty this year it seems almost unbelievable.

The thing I like about older cars is most wives do not object to a husband having a hobby interest in them.

I normally use anti seize on my lug bolts specially after having tires repaired on tire shop. I loose them and re-tight to the correct torque.
Tire shop does not use torque wrench and over tight bolts and nuts.

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Nyck - TX - USA