I started out just wanting to replace the R4 AC compressor with a Sanden. Of course, then I need a parallel flow condenser, so I'm removing the radiator. And while I'm in there I need a thermostat, and might as well replace the short hose under it, and the water pump isn't new, and these belts are cracking, and that led me to the front crank seal. Sometimes it's almost more fun than I can handle.

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

This is a follow-up to a previous query/response about Fern's tach not working and folks suggested looking at my tach amplifier. I appreciate your responses and they led me to this... Fern was built in 2/84 and I found out that she doesn't have a tach amplifier.

So I resurrected her tach following the directions here:
https://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/341652-quick-fix-1985-w123-tach-c-after-egr-failure.html

Oh, and I pulled the EGR "brain" out.

See y'all out there!

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The 80s Ladies:
Fern: '84 Mercedes 300TD, OM617, Turbo Diesel Wagon
Freeda: '89 F250HD, 351W, ZF S5-42 Wide Ratio, XLT Lariat single cab, foahbuhfoah
Frannie: '82 Fiat Spider 2000

got a part that broke during shipping

Attached Thumbnails

 

I've been getting my 90 300d ready for a 6,500mi road trip. New Laso water pump, coolant, used tensioner spring, new tens. shock, used power seat relay, secured fuel lines better, turned up idle a bit, new front brake hoses, new air filter. Found a nice mono wiper from a 93 at the junkyard, also a good leather interior. So took the jy monowiper apart and cleaned and greased it. Works so much faster than the old one. also swapped door check strap, plastic grille hood release. Now I have to get an alignment so I don't burn through these nice tires.

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1990 300d 2.5 turbo
1995 E300d

What did I do this week? Continued with the ongoing (never ending??) saga of trying to make a high miler 2013 ML350 Bluetec roadworthy. I'm moving to the conclusion that 100% of my myriad dash warning lights come from those 2 incredibly poorly located radar "proximity sensors". If you set out to put them in the worst possible location the only place worse than where they now are would be directly over the tires inside the wheel wells. If the car never left dry pavement their current location might work but in a Canadian winter - or in my case after 12 Canadian winters - there is zero chance of survival for not only the radars themselves but the entire wiring harness.

I've had ESP messages, Drive directly to the dealer without shifting messages, tire pressure messages and of course the omnipresent Proximity sensor inoperative message. I think 100% of that is the result of salt water intrusion on those two poorly located connections. Right now I'm waiting for a couple of $10 pigtails so I can change the connectors without removing the bumper to thread in an entirely new harness. I can get the sensors to work intermittently which makes me think I have internal corrosion on the connectors. I've got the rest of the BS messaging stopped since I painted the rear ends of the connectors and the joints themselves with liquid electrical tape. Letting the whole mess dry out thoroughly while we were in Mexico for 3 months helped too.

German engineering my ___.

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R.J.(Bob) Evans
2013 ML350

A hand wash n detail spray shine.

Interior windows all get chamois clean.

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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert

Changed the engine mounts on the 2.5D . SO much smooooother now . Changed the lift pump (in a guess as to why the low idle has dropped speed ) no change there .

Almost every Mercedes Diesel I have owned came to me with an oily engine and the oil soaked motor mounts were soft & blubbery, a few had completely collapsed .

Changing them isn't difficult, I did it in my drive way using only safety stands, a hydraulic trolley jack and a piece of wood to protect the oil pan as I gently lifted the engine a few inches for access .

I make a point of keeping the engines clean and oil free of all my vehicles but this is far more important on Diesel powered engines because the oil that weeps out is contaminated with DIESEL FUEL and rapidly attacks not only the soft rubber parts but also those myriad plastic parts that are getting harder to find .

No need for power washing, the good cleaners, soft brushes and a garden hose work fine .

The tranny mount on 240D's is also usually bad and post 1981 models also have an adjustable center center engine mount that's invariably incorrect installed or mis adjusted, once the three power train mounts are correct it's an easy and simple thing to adjust this center mount (It's a safety device to insure the engine isn't ejected in a really bad crash) leaving you with a cheapo model car that's as smooth and vibration free as a W126 .

I love my '82 240D most of all the W123's I have owned .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I replaced the rubber gasket on the fuel cap on my '98 E300. I'll let you know if this fix takes care of the diesel streaks below the fuel door. Insignificant perhaps, but it was becoming an irritation.

I picked up a '85 W201 190d 2.2 from an older gentlemen that wanted it taken care by someone of for $400. A majority of my fleet are w123s, so the refinement in the first C-class is quire refreshing. I did the following to it:

• 4 new Glow plugs
• New valve cover, Lobes all looked good under the valve cover
• New Intake manifold gasket
• a few new bulbs
• All new fuses
• New Battery
• Oil change and topped off all fluids
• Diesel purge with new Filters
• This car only leaked from the oil pan bolt, which was replaced. I'm shocked

The '84 300TD (Daily driver) received a diesel purge as well with new filters.

I am fortunate to have acquired a 1981 240D with 43,400. original miles with virtually no rust. This historical beauty lived a life in low humidity Nevada and had all work performed at Fletcher Jones, Las Vegas. Using Mercedes parts or if not available, German made, and performing all the work myself....thousands if dollars were saved. Over a one years period, I replaced the engine oil/ filter,
power steering fluid/filter, rear diff fluid, air filter, engine and tranny mounts, steering box adjustment, belts, valve adjustment/gasket, Bilstein B4 shocks, engine shock, steering damper, battery box, group 49 AGM battery, all three door vacuum actuators, vacuum engine valve, heater dash light, trunk light, sun roof rail lubricated, all 4 wheel rotors, pads and bearing grease, brake fluid/bleed, 4 wheel alignment and 4 new tires.
I use this as my main car. It rides and drives like a factory spec 240D. The age of 44 years is unnoticeable. It is extremely easy to repair and possesses no electronic device to cause problems. A true pleasure to work on. The door locks (trunk and fuel door), transmission, engine shut-off are controlled by an ingeniously simple vacuum system, easy and cheap to repair, if necessary. Even the windows are manual roll up, no motors. The only motor exists in the sunroof. It consumes no oil and does not drip one drop on my driveway. Only a German built Mercedes from the famous 70's, 80's or 90's could exhibit this quality, dependability and safety. Truly the best cars ever produced, never to be seen again in this day and age. No car company wants their automobiles to last forever as it is not cost effective. But these German autos will be around longer tgan us as humans. So, enjoy driving a bit of history and the greatest cars ever built.

I'm back at the farm, and finally able to pay some attention to Island Girl (my '83 240D). I cleaned her up and took her out for a drive a week ago Saturday-and broke the alternator belt on the way back.. My brother got me another belt that he thinks should work better. On a more trivial note, the sun visor mirrors keep trying to fall out. Any tips on firmly sticking them in place would be appreciated. Thanks!

Looks like I have not posted since late 2022!
The boy moved up north with his '83 300SD so I've not had much access to it since then. He's home for a week so I gave adjusting the valves a try. After 30 minutes and two valves adjusted, I found this post and made some wrenches and got the rest done in under an hour.
He said it was down on power so I poked around and found the hose from the intake to the waste gate broken off. Not having the correct hose, I used fuel line to see if it made things better. It did so I'm off the the store to get vacuum/pressure rated hose. I still need to change the fuel filters, oil and oil filter. That's a project for later in the week.

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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120

Don't forget to remove and clean out both banjo bolts at each end of the boost sensor line.....

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Where might I find them? I've spent most of my time on the injection pump side so the turbo side is a bit of a mystery.

Michael

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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120