Which of the mercedes engines work best for running wmo.

Not sure how long they would last, but for experimenting, I'd say a non turbo OM61x engine would be best to try with, at least the most tolerant.

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Is there a reason why the older om617 might be a better choice than a om603. My 7.3 idi has zero problems with whatever i put in it so i was hoping to find a smaller diesel that can do the same.

WMO contains moisture and tends to be acid. What comes out of the tailpipe is pretty bad pollution wise.

Without heating it up to boil the moisture out could cost you the injector pump and injectors.

Could probably cause a huge carboning problem in the engine as well. Never caught on or was popular. Any old diesel will probably run it though. No ideal of what start ups cold would be like.

I do not know if letting the water settle out is adaquate. Temperature should be raised to over waters boiling point. Oils boiling point is a huge amount higher. I have seen old engine oil come out with about a quart of water to three of oil. From cars used on very short trips.

Feed enough water through the injection pump and it will tear metal in the injection pump elements. Also it explodes off of the injection nozzels. I would not do this on a car with a good engine.

Have a look in our alternative fuels section. If you have not. I am cheap enough. If I felt there was free fuel that would not create any problems I would use it. Some "free" fuel in exchange for excessive repair costs is not free fuel. Free fuel has killed thousands of these engines way before their time. Since I jointed this site. As they say and I tend to believe it. There is really little free in this world.

Used motor oil is quite carcanegetic. What byproducts coming out the tailpipe are not good with normal clean diesel fuel. With that stuff who knows?

If the feedstock to a treatment system was always the same. But it would not be. You might process it to make some form of safer fuel.

In the day people were basically dumping oil from fryers in their tanks as is with real problems down the road. Some people proved processing it worked out reasonably. Lot of effort required though.

The only upside if you want to call it that. Todays car engines use a lot thinner or lower viscosity engine oils. Than they used to. There is also an pl ingredient in motor oils to make them multi viscosity types. I would want to look into what that is as well first.

Im not using wmo straight from the source and just pouring it in. Itll be heated and then ran through a centrifuge for a few days. I have 2 dieselcrat oc50 centrifuges that will filter 108 gph each so after a few days run time the oil will be completely water free and very clean.

As far as pollution goes burning oil in a diesel is actually about the most enviromentally friendly way of getting rid of it. They burn it in the big ships and they also use it as fuel for tar burners so i dont think pollution will be a problem.

It takes time and miles for using alternate fuels to cause issues. Unless extensive effort is involved. Older Volkswagen diesels are a good choice as their base ability to deliver miles per gallon is good.

No ideal of where energy costs are going. If one is looking for the lowest probable cost per mile over the road. My guess is it is certain years of Toyota Cars. Our system has made people think in miles per gallon. As that cost is in our faces all the time.

Other costs are greater usually. So if you only buy cars that are known to require essentially no repairs and do not depreciate like a rock. The cost of fuel is free in comparison to a lot of other brands overall costs.

A 617 or 616 will not give better fuel millage than a 603 engine. Both are a less efficient engine. Volkswagen diesels will do what you want. But again you have to know the years to pick.

I saw a nice older 2005 volkswagon station wagon the other day with low miles for the year. Someone will buy it not realising it is at the millage to need some really expensive engine work.

About 1200.00 doing it yourself or thousands at a dealer. Will need a total timing belt kit and the camshaft and lifters. You cannot use junk quality or used parts. Seller will find a buyer unaware of this. Standard transmission in older Volkswagens only. They have an automatic walk.

Just a personal preference, the OM603 will burn it as will most any IDI. It's just too nice an engine to treat it that way IMO. The older all cast iron IDI diesels were very tolerant of varying degrees of fuel and fuel quality and have stood the test of time in that regard. Same would hold true of an old cummins, detroit diesel, IH , CAT egnines etc.

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

I tried to read your post but it is always long and windy. It is wrong in the first sentence. WMO will NOT have any moisture. It has been in the hot engine, all moisture have been evaporated. You can even pour little water in a hot engine and it will be all gone within minutes and wouldn't do harm. As far as acidity, I don't think the injector nor the engine would care. Don't tell me the wmo has been sitting and absorb moisture. It will be the same for all fuel.

Bottom line, all indirect injection engine will burn fine as long as it is filtered well and you have a mean to reduce viscousity by heat or blending.

Good luck with your endeavors.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

I started thinking i could use an electric fuel heater until the engine is warm and then use the coolant to heat the fuel before it goes to the pump.

I used to burn anything I could find in my om616 powered 240d. I had a two tank system with a copper fuel line wrapped around the down pipe for heating.

My experience with waste motor oil was that people behind me got really upset. They’d pull up next to me shaking their fist and pointing their finger at my hood and mouthing out words I couldn’t understand. This was in the SF Bay Area so people were over sensitive. I recall taking my friends to lunch and a passenger said “hey there’s a guy next to us and he’s really upset about something.” I had the fuel source hooked to the pure waste motor oil tank.

There was a point during the 2008 recession where fuel prices went nuts. I would drive up to my dad’s and my uncles and cousins would show up with jugs of waste motor oil they wanted gone. We poured them into my auxiliary tank and then had lunch. Id drive home on the highway and see a noticeable amount of smoke in the headlights of the the poor souls who felt inclined to tailgate me. Some were really brain dead and would tailgate me for miles breathing in that carcinogenic trash billowing out of my tailpipe.

Another time I passed a coworker riding his bike in and he approached me at my desk in his bike leotards with a stone faced look. “Dude, that was REALLY bad. Your biofuel really stinks.” Then he walked away. I had to bite my lip to keep from laughing out “not bio, WMO dude!”

I would refrain from switching to the waste oil tank till I got on the expressway. It was just too nasty to use in traffic. I hated the smell if it billowed into my window. My small kids got a kick out of looking at the giant 007 smokescreen we’d leave behind us for miles down the highway at night. They’d laugh all the way home. One cousin had a bad head gasket leak on his car so we burned his coolant laden fuel to get home from his house. It wasn’t clean.

So if you catch my drift, it is an uncool thing to burn this in your car. I can afford real diesel 2 now and I don’t even burn veggie anymore. Funny I originally got into diesels so I could burn veggie, kerosene, heating oil, waste motor oil, vacuum pump oil, cutting oil, compressor oil, tiki torch oil, machine lube, hydraulic oil and whatever else I could find for free. My old 240d just took it all.

Just my 2c and funny stories. So what happens to the waste motor oil we turn in at the recycler? I wouldn’t be surprised if it got incinerated.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

I'll chime in with my 1.5 cents.

I don't have much experience with WMO other than my waste oil furnace in the shop, which tuned properly ignites instantly, makes no smoke and no smell out of the chimney, and keeps me nice and toasty all winter long for free, and the furnace doesn't care about filtration, blends of oil, a little coolant, or anything, it burns it all, and burns it all incredibly cleanly.

Running WVO in either my Grey cars turbo 617, or my red trucks 12v cummins, smoke drastically decreases, and there is a small hit to HP, which is noticeable on the 617, insignificant on the 12v.
I've heard advancing the timing will improve performance on WVO, so perhaps I will need to set up my purple truck with a 2tank like the grey and red vehicles, as the timing is already advanced, and that pump moves a lot of fuel, so a little loss of power and smoke would be fantastic.

I've personally driven 10-20k miles in each of those 2 vehicles on WVO with no real fuel related issues (unless you count a bad tank of diesel from a station as being my WVO at fault, and even then I just switched tanks and drove home on WVO), and between me and my brother ran nearly 100k miles of wvo on the 95 E300D he got before the poor thing finally rusted away to nothing. Still ran amazing, but something catastrophically failed every time I drove it (Axle shafts snapped in half, driveshaft rusted in half, spring perches fell off, NY salt is not kind on those bodies)

Filtering and dewatering is essential. straining it through an old sock is not sufficient. Settling, Heating, and Centrifuging is the only way, then a 2 tank system made from the proper materials, and set up with heat in the proper places so as to not create polymerization, and proper purging when stopping is key.

I know lots of people who have had severe problems, and I'll hesitantly say every one I can recall failed at one of those major things, which in my opinion led to premature failure.

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1982 300D (w123, "Grey Car")
1982 300D (w123, "Blue Car")
2001 Ford F150 "Clifford" (The Big Red Truck)
1997 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins
1996 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins
Previous Vehicles:
1995 E300D, 1980 300SD, 1992 Buick Century, 2005 Saturn Ion

interesting. I know when i run it in my 7.3 idi it loves it. It gets a little better mileage and a small increase in power. It doesnt smoke any worse than it does on normal diesel.

I experimented with WMO a tad with a 617, but that was just 100 micron filtering 10W30 freshly drained from my gasser and adding two quarts to the Mercedes tank each fill up until it was gone.

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Greg Schwall

1983 300SD - 465,000 miles