I’ve posted before that I refinished my trim wood using a more natural finish -a hard wax oil. The look is amazing, but after a couple of summers, I’m noticing the shifter console is taking a beating.

Following some light reading, I took everything off the car and applied many many coats of rattle can spar urethane. It darkened the wood considerably… not a big fan. It’s also not as hard of a finish as I was hoping for. After three days I can scrape it off with a finger nail. Thinking I may strip it all and begin again.

People have been doing this for about 20 years now -has any consensus been reached on what the appropriate finish is?

Urethane oil vs water based, poly urethane oil vs water based, epoxy, shellac, etc etc

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

I would use oil based polyurethane.

What you can do is thin it with paint thinner (mineral spirits) and apply thin coats.
That way it brushes on nice so you don't get a thick finish look..
You would have to figure out the right thinning. Not much needed.

I like BONA products for hardwood floors.

Yes,prep it beforehand.

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1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Thanks for this.

I was under the impression that polyurethane didn't have UV blockers, would chip, etc, but it appears that there are outdoor formulations.

Why do you suggest oil?

I've read that the water-based varieties do not add any warmth to the wood.
Was thinking of going this route...

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

I am no expert,but for my properties, when it comes to refinishing hardwood floors, I prefer oil based polyurethane. Besides,nowadays, its modified oil based in reality in order to conform to lawyers etc..

For small projects like refinishing small wood items, I do the thinned and layered oil based polyurethane.

Water based technology has come a ways,so its not bad either. Varathane diamond polyurethane for e.g.

It is up to you.

I don't think you need to worry about chipping unless it is exposed to rough use.
You can try marine grade polyurethane.

Again, it is all up to you!!

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Thanks I really appreciate it.

I do like the hardness of polyurethane, I’m having a bit of a time at the moment finding an exterior rated blend, ie, something with UV blockers

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

"outdoor spar urethane"

https://woodinto.com/outdoor-polyurethane/

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Both urethane (Spar varnish) and polyurethane are "soft". To get a "hard" finish you would need to apply a shellac or varnish. Neither of those stand up well to U-V rays so you are in a "damned if you do..." scenario.

Spar varnish will, over time, develop a tougher finish than poly but not as hard as varnish.

To minimize the "ambering", I spray a coat of clear acrylic matte finish onto the piece. Allow to dry (minimum of 24 hours), buff lightly with 400-600 grit and then begin applying the topcoat of your choice.

The acrylic acts as a sealer and the matte finish adds a bit of "tooth" for the topcoat.

You are still going to get some "ambering" but that is just the nature of the beast.

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

What about using a water-based spar urethane? I've read that this does not add any yellow.

I stripped the wood and bought a quart of it (crystal clear gloss). Have yet to apply...


These are all Urethane.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

I tried using the water-based stuff a few years ago and didn't care for it. I ended up with a blotchy finish. Of course, that could be attributed to operator error, incomplete old finish removal or their early attempts at the formulation. Operator error could have been the major flaw.

I think the water-base stuff would work fine on new wood, just not sure how it would do on stripped pieces unless you manage to remove ALL the old finish.

Keep us informed on your progress. I'd much prefer to use the water-based stuff in the furure. Clean-up is a heck of a lot easier.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

This Wikipedia article contains quite a bit of useful information. It would seen that an acrylic varnish might well be the most suitable based on UV resistance.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjE7OmwnPb3AhVrIEQIHTd7AX4QFnoECFMQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FVarnish&usg=AOvVaw1W18GNCZmb_5vIGYrv_fgi

I’ve just begun applying the water based spar urethane.
Will update as I go.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Hopefully that will work out for you. The best product that I have found both for UV resistance and hardness is a 2k automotive clear coat. No yellowing, and extremely durable.

Good luck

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Closest thing to a restricted product I use. Not allowed to sell it to off the street customers in Canada. The additive that makes the contents of the can useless in thirty days. Opened or not. Also allows you to specify the gloss you want on a scale of 1-10.

I believe it is primarily used for wooden kitchen tables these days. I use it to spray kitchen cupboards. I use additive #5 for gloss. They only premix it at the point of purchase.

Tried urethane, duplicolor clear coat. Both never gave a good durable factory finish for me. The factory finish is a polyester resin. Needs heat gun to remove. I found best was clear 2 part epoxy meant for that wet look on table tops. Lay it thick and use painters tape around borders. Plan on wet sanding and then polishing to finish it. Experiment with alchohol based stain, leather stain or Rit Dye before commiting.

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Theseus

Instragram: doss_project
1984 300SD - 930 Blue, OM 617
Murfreesboro, TN

Theseus owned a ship in Greek mythology, and when a part of the ship needed replacing, it was replaced. Eventually, everything was replaced. Is it the same ship? (I own the car of Theseus. )

Although you can buy clear coat and hardener in most US auto body shops, not everyone has them nearby or may face restrictions. A great alternative available in a 2 chamber spray can is SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss clear coat 3680061.

It should have a long shelf life until the catalyst is activated, then you have 48 hours to use it or it goes rock hard. I used it for clearing polished allow wheels, and would use it for auto would trim finishing. After spraying and letting it dry, you could polish with a fine e grit cream polish like you would do a car finish for a glass like smoothness and depth.

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)